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[Sean'o]

As Robwas said, good quality safety gear first and foremost.
As far as the bike goes, there are things that must be done before you can race it, lockwiring things, no coolant must be distilled water, brether and over flow hoses must be re routed into the airbox, catch can may still be acceptable.
Then race glass first, not only for weight but belly pan must hold 5(i think) liters of fluid in case the worst happens to your engine, belly pan should catch oil or water it spews out if you blow it up.
Then race compound tires and suspension set up, for superstock you can change all fork internals and rear shock internals and spring. Take it to a suspension tuner with race glass on and all your riding gear on and have him measure up your sags, stock springs may be ok depending on your weight but unlikely so a spring change may be needed, you may also need to change the valving so you can set your compression and rebound damping properly, after that everything else is a nice to have.
A slip on sounds better and breathes better than stock so usually the first thing that goes on. PC3's not allowed in superstock, dyno tuning a waste of money till your at the front of the pack and want that little bit extra.
Good quality oil like motul 3100 or 5100, OEM oil filters are fine.
Once you start getting a bit quicker, tire warmers save tire wear and give you a bit more confidence, especially on cooler days.
Unless your fast straight up stock brake pads are ok, some of the fast guys out there still prefer stock to after market race pads, i would put braided brake lines on before i put in race pads.
Damper, pretty much essential unless you like tank slappers.
520 conversions arent just for weight saving, as the chain and sprocket are thinner, there is less contact area so less friction so more horse power, also less rotating mass making bike easier to turn, also its usually done when a gearing change is required, when you get a bit faster you will be thinking the revs should be a bit higher ther for better drive or im no where near redline in top coming into turn 7, go the 520 conversion when you get to this stage and change your gearing.
Rearsets you might find you need if you start scraping pegs or feet, or maybe just get adjuster plates for stock rearsets.
So in order for budget and necessity(never could spell that)
1:race glass
2:tires
3:Suspension-correct springs, valving and setup
4:Steering damper
5: Briaded lines, maybe a pad change
6:slip on (coz they sound good)
anywhere in there you can throw in semi or full synthetic oil after engine has been run in on mineral oil.
7:lap timer, good after a couple of track days without one to then start seeing how you are doing and trying to improve it
8 and beyond, the rest you pick up as you need it, you might find stock gearing is crap for you so go the 520 conversion, you might like to put clip ons on it, cheaper than oem if you bend one, maybe you will be scraping pegs so rearsets etc etc, essentials first, goodies later.