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Thread: Ninja 250R - How much time to wait for oil change

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    Member Br3ndan's Avatar
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    Ninja 250R - How much time to wait for oil change

    Hi everyone,

    Just after some quick advice... I currently own a Ninja 250R 2010 for the past 10 months or so. It had its 6000km service (the bike was actually 5500km at the time) in July 2011. As of today the mileage is now sitting on 7500km and its been roughly 6 months since service. The bike obviously doesn't get ridden much and when it does, it gets babied around the place.

    The last oil Mach1 Kawasaki put in was GPS Castrol 10 - 40 and filter. So I guess what I'm asking is how many months between oil changes if the bike doesn't reach the next service (which is 12000km).

    Thoughts please? I know cars usually say 10,000 km or 12 months. Though my skyline (turbo) I do 5,000kms or 6 months. Are bikes any different?

    Thanks everyone!

    Mods please move if I have put in the wrong sub forum

    Extra Notes:

    I am thinking about doing this oil change myself as its easy enough to do using the following:

    Motul 5100 4T (anyone know where to buy locally in perth SOR preferred?)
    K&N KN-401 filter (anyone know where to buy locally in perth SOR preferred?)

  2. #2
    Member jmoore's Avatar
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    5,000 kms is good practice
    Quote Originally Posted by polonY
    Don't worry about shitting people off. Unless you ride a ninja 250 or a cbr250rrrrrr

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    Moderator Barfridge's Avatar
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    6 months or 6000km is fine, if you are using a decent oil (like the 5100).

    You will get the motul at most shops, I can recommend five star yamaha in Hamilton Hill, or Causeway Kawasaki.
    Don't bother with the K&N oil filter, if they say the flow better then OEM it's because they filter less. And frankly the EX250 doesn't need it. Stick with the OEM filter, they're cheap as chips and do the job fine.
    In life you only get one lap, might as well make it a good one.

    Buy my stuff, everything now half price - http://www.perthstreetbikes.com/foru...woofer-144818/

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    Member ninjaa's Avatar
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    I like the k&n oil filter because it's got a 17mm(?) nut on the end which means taking it off is even easier. I like easy

    Any shop should be able to order it in for you. Troy works at mach1 if you're near midland
    Quote Originally Posted by Gothchick View Post
    She is female after all.

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    Moderator Barfridge's Avatar
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    bah, kids these days. It's not like the filter is hidden behind the headers.
    And that means you can't stab it with a screwdriver and get all wonderfully messy.
    In life you only get one lap, might as well make it a good one.

    Buy my stuff, everything now half price - http://www.perthstreetbikes.com/foru...woofer-144818/

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    Member ninjaa's Avatar
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    Haha work smarter, not harder Jeff
    Off topic, but don't you have to take the headers off on the 07 r1 to get to the filter? May be a diff bike..
    Quote Originally Posted by Gothchick View Post
    She is female after all.

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    Member SIR sparks a lot's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ninjaa View Post
    Haha work smarter, not harder Jeff
    To true to true
    “Faster, faster, faster, until the thrill of speed overcomes the fear of death...
    Hunter S. Thompson

    “Everyone looks good riding a motorcycle, although for some, it requires a full-face helmet.”

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    Member Br3ndan's Avatar
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    by the 17mm nut, thats not the nut on the base plate is it? Im sure that one comes with the bike? Or is this a 17mm nut inside the assembly which holds the filter in?

    In say that, I will be selling my bike to my older brother in around 3 Months 2 weeks and 2 days! So I won't be the one changing the oil filter next time! haha... so I guess just whatever is easy to get my hands on.
    Last edited by Br3ndan; 02-02-2012 at 09:42 AM.

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    Member ninjaa's Avatar
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    Na mate it's a 17mm (pretty sure, could be 15) nut welded onto the end of the filter. So you don't have to put a filter wrench on it. Nice & easy to crack
    Quote Originally Posted by Gothchick View Post
    She is female after all.

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    Member Br3ndan's Avatar
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    Ah im with you now. Thanks for the heads up and advice Ninjaa + others. I might just go with OEM, after a internet search it looks like a place in osborne park stocks it and then rest you have to order in. I got a oil filter wrench at the workshop anyway.

    As well as i'm on the hunt for my big bike, which hopefully i will pick up in the next 1-2 months, just before my r class test ! so the next oil change will be on my brother haha

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    Member DreamTheater's Avatar
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    I service my R1 every 3,000km but it is sitting at around 92,000km.

    Filters I usually grab oem from the dealer for under $20 but have started buying k&n for the nut on the end
    Oil I use Castrol Gold from Supercheap/Malz - $60ish for 5 litres.
    If you're doing the oil yourself make sure it's bike oil and not car oil as it may cause issues.

    Quote Originally Posted by Barfrangipani View Post
    bah, kids these days. It's not like the filter is hidden behind the headers.
    And that means you can't stab it with a screwdriver and get all wonderfully messy.
    The first time I did my oil filter I didn't have a filter wrench so I did the screwdriver trick behind the headers... very messy and i almost chopped the filter in half.. never doing that again
    Straight roads are for fast bikes - corners are for fast riders!

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    Member I Fancy Holidays's Avatar
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    The ex250 doesnt have the same type of filter as most big bikes. It looks like this:


    So no point discussing the advantages of a K&N as there are none.

  13. #13
    Member Billy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ninjaa View Post
    Off topic, but don't you have to take the headers off on the 07 r1 to get to the filter? May be a diff bike..
    nope dnt have to take the headers off. just a little messy doing it with out tin foil over the headers to stop the burnt oil smell afterwards.

    regarding OP I would go with OEM filter and oil change every 5000km or less if u have money to put towards oil
    "pain is temporary glory is forever" - unknown

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    Member Br3ndan's Avatar
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    Thanks everyone for your tips, much appreciated!!

    I have decided to go to Kawasaki causeway and pick up the motul 5100 4T (which is specifically for motorbikes, im sure). I will also pick up the OEM filter, now the two rubber seal rings don't come with the filter, you have to buy them extra. What is everyone thoughts on buying new ones of those? Car oil filters always seem to come with that o ring. He did state that in his opinion you didn't need to change these too often.

    They said it will cost around 6 dollars for the top ring and maybe 10 for the bottom (this was off the top of his head and could be slightly different if he went into the system to check)

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    Member Billy's Avatar
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    Also pick up the crush washer for around the oil drain bolt.
    "pain is temporary glory is forever" - unknown

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    Member Cosimo_Zaretti's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Br3ndan View Post
    Thanks everyone for your tips, much appreciated!!

    I have decided to go to Kawasaki causeway and pick up the motul 5100 4T (which is specifically for motorbikes, im sure). I will also pick up the OEM filter, now the two rubber seal rings don't come with the filter, you have to buy them extra. What is everyone thoughts on buying new ones of those? Car oil filters always seem to come with that o ring. He did state that in his opinion you didn't need to change these too often.

    They said it will cost around 6 dollars for the top ring and maybe 10 for the bottom (this was off the top of his head and could be slightly different if he went into the system
    to check)
    Some filter manufacturers supply O rings with the filters, some don't. I usually buy Champion or K&N filters, and for my GS at least they always come with the O ring. I tried to do the oil change without the changing the seal once (drained the oil before I realised there wasn't one in the box) and it gave me a pretty impressive oil leak onto the headers. "Hey mate your bike's on fire". Yeah cheers for your input.
    B - R - A - K fucking E

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    Member g0zer's Avatar
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    im in a similar position only put 2000km in 12mnths, it got the 1000km 1st service in a month. am gonna drop the oil in case its sucked moisture dont see how it could tho since the crank case is sealed leaked combustion gases tight. not going to worry about the filter. when it comes up for its 10000km the filter will get changed.
    Quote Originally Posted by Bendito View Post
    If we get to a stop and we are missing a dozen bikes and you are last, it was your fault. Don't be that guy. No one likes that guy.

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    Member Aufitt's Avatar
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    You are better to change more often than use any special Motul snake oil that costs more. (yes I've wasted a shitload on full synthetics over the years till I saw the light ages ago)

    Manufacturers give a requirement and if its that or above you are fine, Ninja 250 aint no Ferrari.
    but for longevity do a change('s') between annual dealer servicing.
    More depending on conditions and/or time between changes regardless of Km's.

    But oil discussions are akin to what beer you drink, what jocks to wear, or what bike gives you the biggest boner.

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    Member g0zer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Aufitt View Post
    special Motul snake oil that costs more.
    motul makes mineral oils too, you should use motul

    The principles underlying Motul's relationship with its clients and partners are based on listening attentively to them, upholding the obligation to produce results and being loyal.
    ^and you should be loyal
    Quote Originally Posted by Bendito View Post
    If we get to a stop and we are missing a dozen bikes and you are last, it was your fault. Don't be that guy. No one likes that guy.

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    Member richarde's Avatar
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    TBH with a Ninja 250, I reckon Motul 5100 is a bit of overkill. I mean, the engine design is 30-odd years old, and it isn't exactly high-performance. I'd just go with mineral oil and save the $$$, personally.

    I believe the reason for the 6 month/12 month recommendation is because some of the additives in the oil (anti-friction, detergents etc) break down over time. Again, this is more important on a more modern, higher performance engine.

    I'd probably just do 12 months/5000km with mineral oil.

    Edit: of course using better oil than recommended isn't going to do any harm, so it is up to you whether you want to spend the dollars or not

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