Charge you barstard

[stone]

Why must the love of my life keep breaking my fuckin heart.

Long story short,she wouldnt start,I geta jump start an go home and charge the battery at 5 amps for about 5 hours.I test it buy starting and stoping and riding and such. All seemed good as it started the next day. Take it out for a fair old ride and the battery gets that flat it stalls.

Brand new battery in it today, take it about the same distance as last time and I noticed the head light get dim,waited for the poxy (somthings wrong) light to come on then shit myself when it did still 10 km from home.

Stalled in the driveway, lucky for me.

So obviously its not getting charge from the thingy thats not called an altinator!?! or somthing along those lines.

Is this a multi-meter job,or a auto sparky job?

So glad the rgv has'nt sold,out of that and the gixx the 2 stroke has been the reliable one.

[Stu]

A few things to check which you can do with a multi meter.
If you search this forum for 'battery' you should come up with
a multitude of things to try. Check the output from the stator
and the regulator/rectifier (which I suspect is the problem).

[MADOGA]

So obviously its not getting charge from the thingy thats not called an altinator!?! or somthing along those lines.

In my xspurt opinion it probably is that thing thats not an altinator, but it could be something else to

[Arwon]

Since it isn't a honda, the regulator/rectifier will more than likely be ok (not picking on Honda's this time but this is their major fault), but they do suffer from hot joints and need to be checked. You should have about 14.2vdc when running at the battery.

[Speed Demon]

I know how you feel my old gpz used to break down more times than not
Dont have that problem now

[stone]

Cheers guy's,let the gremlin hunt begin.......

[Nero Diablo]

Athough when you drag the muti meter out epending on the bike at lot don't charge at idle. You should see the charging system kick in around 1300 rpm on a twin fours around 1 K I guess anyway just above idle. The voltage should then build up to 14.2-14.6 volts try loading the system up buy turning the headlights etc on it should maintan the voltage.

Things to check a lot of voltage regulators use the case as earth make sure the case has good contact with the frame and the bolts aren't covered in corrosion. Main earth lead where it connects tot he frame has a good metal to metal contact. Battery terminals are tight and if you can work out which is the main charge wire thats got a good connection tot he battery, often these are run to the starter motor/ start relay. When messing wit the positive terminals make sure you disconnet the earth to prevent arc welding.

[Mockery]

Go here: Motorcycle Electrical Parts (ElectroSport Industries)

Download the diagnostic chart and run through that.
Battery has to be charged properly before starting...

[likefry]

i got a proper 900ma battery charger for bikes you can borrow if ya want.

I'm in Leeming

[Jonchilds]

The fault finding chart that Mockery linked to is your best bet for initial investigation. It's very thorough and tells you exactly what to do.

Since it isn't a honda, the regulator/rectifier will more than likely be ok (not picking on Honda's this time but this is their major fault)

I've never had an R/R problem on a Honda.

[robwas]

Why must the love of my life keep breaking my fuckin heart.

Because if it has wheels or TITS it's gunna give you trouble!! It's just how it is and you can't change it

[stone]

Falt finding chart down loaded ( cheers SD ), multimeter borrowed,got a charger,thanks anyway LikeFry, and the Jack n Coke is begining to flow.

Now I've just gotta find what/where the R/R looks like and lives.

oh yeh,cheers everyone

[rc_sam]

Long story short,she wouldnt start,I geta jump start an go home and charge the battery at 5 amps for about 5 hours.

Hey mate, thought most bike batteries are sealed lead acid. which you don't charge at 5amps coz you'll fry them. You got a swallow charger? set it for pb and around 1amp.
As for your alternator, ditto what the others have said about voltage.

[Mattis]

If it is a sealed battery then follow the charging instructions that will be written on it somewhere (usually about 1.5A for a few hours. Hitting it with a car battery charger that throws some 5A (i.e. most car battery chargers) is not a good idea.

Also look at getting a voltage meter mounted somewhere visible when you are riding, it should let you keep an eye on bikes charging system.

I have one of these mounted on my R1 atm:

Jaycar Electronics

[stone]

Major fucking problem,no charging at any revs,infact the longer you rev it the faster the cunt goes flat.

Im at the stage in the chart were Im required too disconnect the conector block too the stator too test the resistance,but its hard wired and the 4th and/or 5th wire that you test dont exist to the best of my investergation,so even if I unsolder the stator this doesnt prove anything.

Im not far from spitting it and tiping the thing over on the lawn too rip the stator cover off.

It would normally be enough too drive me to drink, but apparently my boss thinks it would be heeps funny if I had to stand on the corner and hock my arse for drinkin money this weekend.

If anyone want's me Ill be standing on the curb in a fuckin mini skirt

[Nero Diablo]

Umm you can do a run test on the stator. Switch mutimeter To AC Test across the two or three wires running directly from the stator/ engine. Now it depends on the indvidual bike and workshop manual will give you exact numbers but around 5000rpm you should have around 50-70volts AC. If this is correct then your regulator rectifier is kaput. If this is not the case then the stator is fire trucked. Before you get carried away it might be worth checking the charge line out of the rectifier at the first connector block or where ever you can get to it and see if you have output there. Its possible you have a wiring fault somewhere in the loom.

[stone]

Cheers,that was exactly what I needed to read.

[stone]

If it is a sealed battery then follow the charging instructions that will be written on it somewhere (usually about 1.5A for a few hours. Hitting it with a car battery charger that throws some 5A (i.e. most car battery chargers) is not a good idea.

Also look at getting a voltage meter mounted somewhere visible when you are riding, it should let you keep an eye on bikes charging system.

I have one of these mounted on my R1 atm:

Jaycar Electronics

good idea,might just pop into the local jaycar tomorra an chech it out.

[Jonchilds]

If it's been hard wired, chances are it's played up in the past.

If you're needing a new stator, compare the Yamaha price with those from Electrical parts for motorcycles - Electrex World Ltd - there can sometimes be a $150+ saving, and postage only takes a week.

[Darkbyte]

These were the guys that took care of that bike and its electrics. Seriously have a chat to them and ask exactly what they have and havent checked. That stator should not have died, as it had been rewound and Id been riding around with it for best part of a year no probs.

The Bike Garage
1/ 10 Advantage Way
Wangara
WA, 6065
Australia
Ph: (08) 9302 6066

As far as I am aware, the only things that have been done to that bike is - Bike bandit, installed, reinstalled and ripped out because it drained the battery. Headlight mod, installed then removed because it drew too much current and wasnt good for the stator. The stator was rewound for me free of charge when they undid the headlight mod.

IMO, Id start looking at the regulator.