Clutch slipping and clunky first gear?

[Chaderotti]

I've noticed after changing my oil that when cold the clutch tends to slip and the throttle tends to not respond. I then have to pump the clutch slightly and give it a bit of a rev to get things going. Once it's up to temperature I rarely get a bit of clutch slipping or a 'stuck' gear lever. But apart from that everything is generally very smooth once it's up to temp.

I've also noticed that shifting into or out of first it's suddenly very clunky. At one occasion the bike wouldn't even shift down from third or fourth until, I pumped the clutch and stomped the lever to get it down.

It's an 09 ninja 250. It's at about 5,300 km so still virtually brand new. For a good portion of its life there was no slack in the clutch lever. Could my clutch plates be shot? Or is it because I'm using a thicker oil (I think it's 15w-50, manual recommends 10w-40)

I'm not too flexible in the foot so could my shoddy up-shifts have done some damage?

thanks,

[Rich]

What oil did you use?

[Chaderotti]

Castrol Activ 4T 15w-50

[likefry]

Is your clutch adjusted correctly?

Should be a few mm freeplay before the slack is taken up.

[darkfibre]

No problems with clutch and gears.

Change oil to one grade up from spec.

Now problems with clutch and gears.


Cause and effect, it may not be wise to compound the issue by randomly adjusting cable freeplay.

[Chaderotti]

No problems with clutch and gears.

Change oil to one grade up from spec.

Now problems with clutch and gears.


Cause and effect, it may not be wise to compound the issue by randomly adjusting cable freeplay.

I couldn't afford the 10w-40. Something like 60 bucks for 5L at super cheap, the 15w-50 was less than half that price.

Is your clutch adjusted correctly?

Should be a few mm freeplay before the slack is taken up.

Yep there is freeplay in the clutch lever.

[Phantom1500]

did you use car oil?????

if you did, most car oils are friction modified and stop the clutch from working correctly, end result is to replace the friction and steel disc and new bike oil. I have seen this many time in the workshop.

All wet clutches are friction based so the friction modified oils gum up the friction plates.

[g0zer]

i googled [cheapest motorcycle oil] and it took me straight to

Castrol Activ 4T Motorcycle Oil - 15W-50, 1 Litre - Supercheap Auto Australia



this is the oil i use in my rz350 gearbox, and my clutch binds and slips when cold too. cheap shit oil for cheap shit bikes haha

[Rich]

You get what you pay for...

[Falcore]

Super cheap crap has it. Hell even there company name is embossed into the plastic.

Are they cable clutch or hydraulic? You mentioned pumping it that's all

[K1GxR]

I couldn't afford the 10w-40. Something like 60 bucks for 5L at super cheap, the 15w-50 was less than half that price.
.

srsly??????

[filbert]

I couldn't afford the 10w-40. Something like 60 bucks for 5L at super cheap, the 15w-50 was less than half that price.

False economy you haven't saved anything if it costs you $300 to fix your slipping clutch.

The good news is since you're learning on a 250 your mistake will be much cheaper and less hazardous than if you did it on a high powered expexpensive bike.

Drain the oil, buy the right oil, it may not have done major oe permanent damage.

[SilentBob]

Go and buy the proper spec oil, drain your oil, replace your oil with new oil.
If you think oil is expensive wait til you have to replace other bits and bobs.

[darkfibre]

The main chance of damage is not from running that oil, it would be from having to force the gears, don't panic, and save up for the right oil.

Be gentle with it in the meantime.

It would be interesting to see what the oil pressure is though.

[g0zer]

At one occasion the bike wouldn't even shift down from third or fourth until, I pumped the clutch and stomped the lever to get it down.

stomp that gearbox man, smash the fuck out of that kawasaki piece of shit!

[Chaderotti]

Alrighty, last time I listen to a supercheap employee.
Just as the time it seemed bloody expensive. I'm an unemployed student mind you.
With the current oil the bike has done maybe 300 odd km. Is it possible to baby the bike for the time being until I get some money saved up or is it a broken face waiting to happen? I really need to finish my log book soon.

While I'm at it, where can I get a bottle of 10w-40 for [reasonably] cheap?

[g0zer]

that oil is recommended by castrol for ninja250's. leave it in there for summer. i guarantee you those motors have been filled (with little or no consequence) with 20-50 cheap shit car oil by plenty of learner riders before you who didnt know any better.

that small difference in oil weight isn't going to hurt anything. the only thing that will cause damage to that bike is you. rev match your gear changes and let it warm up before loading the clutch or spooling the engine up through the rev range so you dont fuck the gearbox, clutch or motor.

swap to 10-40 for the winter will be soon enough.

[Chaderotti]

Okay thanks a lot gozer. I'll pussy foot (whats the motorbike equivalent?) the bike until then. I'll have to definitely give it much longer to warm up, I'm not too strict on that aspect.

I was told by the supercheap employee that the difference between 10w-40 and 15w-50 is quality. In that 10w-40 is better quality.

Is it still recommended that I change it out asap to 10w-40?

[filbert]

like gozer said go easy it will be fine they've been run on worse, as long as you don't abuse it there shouldn't be a problem, oil is not the place to save your money since engines cost more to fix than an oil change.

viscosity ratings on multigrade oils tell you how thick the oil is when cold eg the 15 and when warm 50 (it doesn't get thicker but is equivalent to a 50w at that temp) thinner oil eg 10 will run more freely through your engine when cold and reduce startup wear, oil that thins too much when hot doesn't lubricate as well, so the 15w50 is good for hot weather and long rides. The 10w40 is best for cold starts and normal riding.

for the best of both worlds i use and recommend HPR GAS 10, it's semi synthetic, it's a 10w50 it's about $38 for 5 litres from memory it's a car oil but if you read the label perfectly suitable for bikes, i use it in my commuters.

The more you thrash your bike the better the oil you should be using which is why you will see some who race pay $30 or more a litre for a good quality synthetic and change it every meeting.

[Chaderotti]

Okay thanks a lot gozer and filbert. I guess that means I can't have any occasional redlining fun with the bike.

I'll look for HPR gas 10 next time I need to change the oil.

Again, thanks a lot for all the input.