Help! I think my clutch has Sh*t itself. Pics of plates on p5.

[Pete]

Maybe you have stretched your clutch cable somewhere. it sounds like your clutch is engaging ok but not disingaging enough when you pull the leaver. Pull out the cable and check it or keep tightening it untill you can't anymore if it has stretched it will most likly brake soon anyway. so replace

[semi]

Sucks eh? Unfortunately nothing muh you can do about it. If you've done the plates its pretty likely that there'll be crap in there, and you'd wanna do the oil with new plates anyway.

[thro]

Originally Posted by Bunyack

I rode for a few km, trying to alert the rolling corner marker ahead of me but her kept taking off when he saw me so I stopped.

I thought the headlight flashing and horn beeping was "yeah i've caught up to the mighty RGV, onwards!"

doesn't sound like the friction material is worn out at least - if that was the case you'd be getting clutch slip and not going anywhere... you sound to have the opposite?



edit:
+1 to what pete said. worn out clutch plate = no drive... not inability to slip clutch...

[semi]

you busy bunyack? Ill come round for a looksee if you're free

[semi]

Originally Posted by thro

I thought the headlight flashing and horn beeping was "yeah i've caught up to the mighty RGV, onwards!"

doesn't sound like the friction material is worn out at least - if that was the case you'd be getting clutch slip and not going anywhere... you sound to have the opposite?

it sounds like warped steels to me, though im not really sure

[Top Gun]

Originally Posted by semi

what?

checking to see if the clutch is dragging also check if rear tire spins in 1st gear with clutch in (once warm)

[Pete]

Originally Posted by rgvlee

This is not correct.

There is a thread covering this very well on the forum. The rear can and will spin to a degree in neutral.

...back on topic

Depends on the oil viscosity at the time you try it. Mine does it if its really cold or brandnew oil.

[Bunyack]

Originally Posted by Halo_2

checking to see if the clutch is dragging also check if rear tire spins in 1st gear with clutch in (once warm)

errr..... the bike pulls forward with the clutch in, in 1st. so it's definately spinning.

[semi]

Originally Posted by Halo_2

checking to see if the clutch is dragging also check if rear tire spins in 1st gear with clutch in (once warm)

that doesnt make sense. If you wanna check if the clutch is dragging you wouldnt put it in gear. And the wheel will still spin in gear with the clutch in too.

Assuming that its not the cable (bunyacks gonna play with it some more), can someone agree/disagree with my steels theory?

[g0zer]

it all depends on bunyacks mechanical nous.. his 1st post was a little hard to read

if the clutch cable is the problem, then its too long as Pete says ie: when you pull the clutch in, it still doesnt disengage the clutch.

It sounds like the clutch cable is too tight, and I tired loosening it at the lever

if i read this correctly, (loosen means lengthen) Bunyack has diagnosed and attempted to correct the problem with upside down logic.

lets deal with that before ripping the clutch aapart and inspecting steels ect


i wouldnt continue to crunch, stall and forcful shift without having the clutch disengaged as per

when the bike is running, in Neutral, it slams into 1st with a lot of force. (Clutch lever in of course)

When the bike is in 1st, it wont change up into NEutral, and skips straight to 2nd, with a lot of force.

until its fixed either unless you want bent selector fork type issues which will fux0r your box.

[semi]

yeh ive spoken to him about that, told him to make it tighter and see if it does the same thing

[g0zer]

Originally Posted by semi

yeh ive spoken to him about that, told him to make it tighter and see if it does the same thing

tell him to stop smashing up 1st and 2nd as well.. as desmo will attest, the 03R1 was also the last of the R1's prone to issues between 1st and 2nd... with a large ratio difference between 1st and 2nd

[bertie]

i seam to think a warped friction plate is unlikely.
in the case where it was likely you might have bigger dramas like an exploded clutch basket or pressure plate that decided to eat a 'box and a crank.

[Kryzaach]

sometimes, When A Bike Has Been Sitting A Long Time, Like Over Winter, The Clutch Plates Will Stick Together. You Pull The Clutch Lever In But The Plates Will Not Disengage. About 60-70% Of The Time You Can Get Them To Release By Running The Bike Up To 15-20 Mph And Locking Up The Rear Brake While You Hold The Clutch Lever In (disengaged). If This Does Not Break It Loose, You Will Have To Take The Clutch Cover Off And With The Lever Held On, Pry The Plates Apart With A Screwdriver And Reoil Them A Bit.

From Dan's Motorcycle Repair "Clutches"

It's worth a try, however, I'm thinking you just need a new set of plates, you have done 38K after all.

[Bunyack]

Ok, I made that clutch cable tighter than a "proverbial" and still no go.


Yeah I know that the dogs between 1st and 2nd gear are made of butter on the 02/03 R1s.

where to now??? drop the oil and see if there's any friction plate in it??

[Bunyack]

errrr.... kryzaach, my bike turns over at least every second day. what are the chances of 2 of the clutch plates sticking???

[semi]

Originally Posted by Bunyack

errrr.... kryzaach, my bike turns over at least every second day. what are the chances of 2 of the clutch plates sticking???

fuck all. Thats not it

[Kryzaach]

Pretty high if you can't disengage it with the clutch lever
Nah seriously, not sure, but I'd try this if it was my bike...

[semi]

Err, i doubt thats it. But try anyway

[Bunyack]

Originally Posted by Kryzaach

Nah seriously, not sure, but I'd try this if it was my bike...

what, get up to 50-odd km/h, clutch lever in, and lock up the rear wheel????