Help! I think my clutch has Sh*t itself. Pics of plates on p5.

[Bunyack]

hashahahah good one Ors.

Looks like i'll be purchasing these puppies.

eBay Motors: YAMAHA R1 YZFR1 CLUTCH KIT COMPLETE PLATES GASKET 99 03 (item 300232789754 end time Jul-11-08 09:52:19 PDT)

[g0zer]

Originally Posted by TYSON

Clutch actually looks like any R1 clutch where the owner clutches it up often.

[ritza350]

looks like you have chatter marks on the clutch drum, not serious, but you might wanna run a fine file over them

[Tornado]

Originally Posted by Desmogod

Those plates don't look like they have a whole heap of meat left on them mate, might be worth changing them while you have it apart.

True desmo. From the pics they appear worn although hard to tell how bad.
This should be checked against your workshop manual. Measure them with a Vernier and see if they are within tolerances. If you can afford it just change em.

Originally Posted by Desmogod

Also, with your steels, lay them on a sheet of glass and eyeball them up just to make sure that they really are flat.

There is also a tolerance allowed here. As Desmo says checked on a flat surface. Using a feeler gauge check any gaps between the flat surface and your steels and see if they are within tolerances.

Not sure if u have the workshop manual but some net savvy dude here could probably send ya in the right direction for a download. Pitstop bookshop probably have a hardcopy or can get one.

Edit:
Here's a Link for 03-06 but I think yours is newer. I not really up to date with R1's.
Yamaha YZF-R1 2004 - 2006 Repair Manual

[Desmogod]

Nah, that's the 04+ manual, Bunyacks bike is an 02/03
I think I have a manual here if you want it Jake.
Or just search the R1 forum for "clutch stack height" and that'll give you the tolerances.

[Bunyack]

ive got the manual guys. have already found the correct torque settigns and tolerance thicknesses etc/

[footer]

Originally Posted by Bunyack

ive got the manual guys. have already found the correct torque settigns and tolerance thicknesses etc/

1st mistake you have made. Do not read the book unless you wear skirts. Only ask one person if your not sure and then tell veryone else how good you are at fixing things

I watched 4 friends trying to get a new TV to work. After 5hrs they read the book and mangaed to see the last 2min of the football.

[Tornado]

Originally Posted by Desmogod

Nah, that's the 04+ manual, Bunyacks bike is an 02/03
I think I have a manual here if you want it Jake.
Or just search the R1 forum for "clutch stack height" and that'll give you the tolerances.

Yeah. I had the choice of about 3 different year ranges to link to. Had a feeling I would pick the wrong one. Anyway sounds like he is on the ball anyway. How's that Duc going Desmo? Clutch all good now? Anything else to sort?

[arwon]

I don't think the steels are fucked at all. I have had more burn marks than that and linished them off by hand without any problem. The build up of crap in the gaps of the fibres seems alot, and the clutch should have a wear mark on the last steel plate on the toothed area or it has a thin wire spring. These devices are for helping the clutch pack separate when you pull the lever in. It has to have either otherwise although you pull the lever in the pack can stay stuck together and when you put it in gear it will clunk real loud or stall (which is the original problem).


What is the thickness of the full clutch pack compared to the manual.

Pic added.
the parts number 9 , 12 and 13 are the ones i am refering to.

[Bunyack]

Originally Posted by arwon

the clutch should have a wear mark on the last steel plate on the toothed area or it has a thin wire spring. These devices are for helping the clutch pack separate when you pull the lever in. It has to have either otherwise although you pull the lever in the pack can stay stuck together and when you put it in gear it will clunk real loud or stall (which is the original problem).

aye. it does have a wear mark from the boss spring.

[arwon]

so is the clutch pack in spec?

[Marty MOOSE]

If you have a look at the basket and hub in the pics you took you can see shiny marks where the plates run. If you can feel those marks with your finger nail this is your problem. The reason the steels are burned (I've seen worse) is that the plates are hanging on the ridges causeing the clutch to slip as it engages.

[Top Gun]

fixed it ???

[semi]

nah, he's waiting for his bits to get here, and bunny is going on holiday tomoro. Bits should be waiting when he gets back, then he's doing it

[Bunyack]

Originally Posted by Marty MOOSE

If you have a look at the basket and hub in the pics you took you can see shiny marks where the plates run. If you can feel those marks with your finger nail this is your problem. The reason the steels are burned (I've seen worse) is that the plates are hanging on the ridges causeing the clutch to slip as it engages.

I had a look at the basket this arvo, there is wear on both the inner and outer baskets BUT...... not too deep. I doubt it would cause significant "slippage"

Originally Posted by semi

nah, he's waiting for his bits to get here, and bunny is going on holiday tomoro. Bits should be waiting when he gets back, then he's doing it

tis true. bits are all paid for, and should arrive in 5-8 working days for over $100 cheaper than the shops want. I get back in 11 days.

[Bunyack]

Ok, heres the developments.

Clutch pack arrived this arvo. (yay)

but before I invite everyone to come over and stand around drinking beer and giving guidance, I want to remove the old gasket. how do I remove it??? it seems fairly attached to the clutch housing, the old gasket has been ripped and I have a new one so leaving it there is out of the question....... i think.

I was going to take at it with a flat-head-screw driver but i do not want to scratch/gougue the metal and screw up the face that the gasket sits on. is there any solvents that can dissolve the gasket material or can i use gasket goo to apply over it and leave it in there???

[Kryzaach]

awesome!

I'd be getting the old one out of there if it was me... that's as far as my advice goes, i'm afraid to say...

[foolishboy]

You going to be able to remove said gasket and even reach the tools and your bike with those G cup breast implants I heard you wasted all your money on Bunyack?

Oh and use a razor blade to remove the old gasket material, thats what Ive always used, the old style Wilkinson Sword blades work really well, also handy for slashing of wrists when it all gets too much putting up with your new bewbs

[Bunyack]

razor blade??? hmmmm, the only problem is that the basket is snuggly nestled in the frame, with only a few mm clearence..... any other suggestions???

[foolishboy]

um hot soapy water and let soak?

Steam from a kettle?

Hydroclorhic acid? Although that might dissolve the whole bike being that it is a yamaha....

Sorry razor blade really was my best suggestion.