Oil Additives- Any Experience

[Poppyman]

I'm just wondering if anyone has experience with any oil additives?

I have used Liqui-Moly anti friction oil additive in my car (Pulsar SSS) and had good results, engine runs much smoother throughout the rev-range, and fuel consumption dropped from around 7.5 to 6.9 L/100km.

Which leads me to wonder if it's worth putting in a motorcycle.
I hear a lot about slipping clutches and so on for wet clutches, but I suppose this is mostly related to clamping pressure.
Anyone tried such a product? How did it go?

[speed3]

Friction modifiers are a no no in bikes, bikes share the oil with the clutch so you'll just end up with the clutch always slipping. Best advice I've ever gotten is change the oil regularly (5000km max). If you've got a dry clutch then it could be worth trying.

[agrid]

I'm just wondering if anyone has experience with any oil additives?

I have used Liqui-Moly anti friction oil additive in my car (Pulsar SSS) and had good results, engine runs much smoother throughout the rev-range, and fuel consumption dropped from around 7.5 to 6.9 L/100km.

I'd like to see the results of a formal double-blind experiment on that.

[ReCon]

Sounds like Molybdenum Disulphide. Known as a miracle lubricant and was used in products like the good old Pro-Mar and other snake oil products.

Works well short term but is in small amounts in suspension and usually 'burns ' off with constant exposure to engine operating temperatures.[needs generally higher amounts and time to 'build up' on engine parts.]
Not effective on aluminium parts generally , and any fuel savings are generally anecdotal in evidence.

Not good for bikes , and is generally expensive to buy in this gist. Good idea to leave it out of your bike and more than likely your vehicles motor long term.

[Poppyman]

I'd like to see the results of a formal double-blind experiment on that.

The fuel results I mentioned are highway-only driving in both cases, as that's the only time I feel the need to use a car. But obviously it's not conclusive.

[Para045]

I remember years ago I used Slick 50 in an old CR250 MXer and it ran a lot smoother and revved quicker and easier after treatment and i rode it for regularly for about a year and a half on weekends without any work to the motor so it does work IMHO but probably not a good idea in wet clutches

[g0zer]

snake oil

[Paraletic]

slick 50 is one of the most rooted things you could put in your engine, yes it is really slippery and it clings to stuff... however it does cause massie sludge build up, and will block small orifices and oil galleries. (i can explain if you want)
dont you think that if additives were so good, they would already be in the oil? oh wait, oil companies do put stuff in the oil, then they test it, and spend $$$ on getting it right.

[Viper]

Generally any additive is shit house. Rarely do they work the miracles they say they will.

Spend money elsewhere.

[robwas]

I used a product called X1R some years ago in my XR600 and it didn't make alot of difference until the oil pump failed and it seemed to save alot of wearing parts like cams and rockers etc. Got it for free so I suppose it was worth it!!

[agrid]

Did you have some cams and rockers to compare?

I had an XL500 that I loaned to a mate who chopped out the countershaft seal and seized the engine. I just replaced the piston and barrel, the cams and rockers were fine so I suppose using plain old oil was worth it.

[ReCon]

I remember years ago I used Slick 50 in an old CR250 MXer and it ran a lot smoother and revved quicker and easier after treatment and i rode it for regularly for about a year and a half on weekends without any work to the motor so it does work IMHO but probably not a good idea in wet clutches

From memory Slick50 was Poly Tetra Flouro Ethylene [spelling could be on the piss] or PTFE .Basically was a more intense version of Nulon.
Reason it disappeared was that it worked ok until you blew the engine or needed major repairs and all the good bits left over needed to be blasted to remove the residue bonded on all the metal surfaces.

What Viper said...

[Para045]

QUOTE=ReCon;2387646]From memory Slick50 was Poly Tetra Fluoro Ethylene [spelling could be on the piss] or PTFE .Basically was a more intense version of Nulon.
Reason it disappeared was that it worked OK until you blew the engine or needed major repairs and all the good bits left over needed to be blasted to remove the residue bonded on all the metal surfaces.

What Viper said...[/QUOTE]

Yeah it was PTFE and as I said I believe it worked in my 2st as it went way longer without engine work than it should have, it eventually did have a minor seizure but I pulled it down and a piece of the skirt had come out
I just put a new piston/rings and bearings in and it went fie after that until I got rid of it a year later so to me it was worth it
I've also used their grease and One Lube on firearms and found it worked well
It's still available from what I can see other than the 2st treatment

[CBRay]

Best advice I've ever gotten is change the oil regularly (5000km max).

^This is good advice, doesnt matter wat vehicle u have it should last a long time if u change the oil regularly.

[Paraletic]

From memory Slick50 was Poly Tetra Flouro Ethylene [spelling could be on the piss] or PTFE .Basically was a more intense version of Nulon.
Reason it disappeared was that it worked ok until you blew the engine or needed major repairs and all the good bits left over needed to be blasted to remove the residue bonded on all the metal surfaces.

What Viper said...

spot on.

PTFE is the Proper name for Teflon... innit?

[Para045]

spot on.

PTFE is the Proper name for Teflon... innit?

PTFE is the base compound for a lot of things and Teflon is a proprietary brand name that is the most well known, like everyone calling coolers Eskies etc

[Rich]

Oil additives are awesome...

I've used them quite a few times to quieten down engines and stop smoke blowing...

I then promptly sell the car...

Would never use them in a good engine...

[Scott52]

Regular oil changes with good quality oil does the trick.

[Poppyman]

Obviously teflon's a dumb idea altogether, and there's no really good reason to stray from the $100 a bottle HP oils. But has anyone ever used products based on MoS2 or similar? I loosely recall read about something in a machine design book that used some kind of carbon lubricant, something like buckyballs or whatever.

It appears as though the advice of "DO NOT USE IT" has stopped anyone from trying, but I don't see why no-one bothers to experiment. It seems the safe route is the way to go, but that doesn't help anything except reinforcing that a very old method continues to work just like it always did.

However the reason for the question was more to the point of reducing fuel consumption while getting the same performance. I wish motorcycle manufacturers would use more fuel saving technologies, because I'm pretty sure a lot of small (probably german) cars have similar consumption to bikes yet weigh 5 times as much.

tl;dr has anyone tried MoS2 or something with nano-sized carbon balls, or anything that has actually worked?

[buelllord]

[QUOTE=Poppyman;2397131]

It appears as though the advice of "DO NOT USE IT" has stopped anyone from trying, but I don't see why no-one bothers to experiment. It seems the safe route is the way to go, but that doesn't help anything except reinforcing that a very old method continues to work just like it always did.



QUOTE]


Seeing as you struggle to heed the advice of experience, why don't you be the first to experiment then ............



buelllord



PS, just make sure you know how to replace a motorcycle clutch.