rearset questions

[vbroom]

first question:
This is the joint between the footpeg and the rearset. I expected a split pin but instead i found this. Anyone know how i remove it to take the peg off?






second question:

i'm trying to remove the shift link rod from the gear pedal and bracket that connects to the gearbox....except it a balljoint with a rubber cover and i cant seem to find a nut/ bolt/ pin for me to undo. Any ideas?





thanks.

[Rob]

1st one is a circlip - get a screwdriver in one of the gaps on the back of it and pry it off (dont do this in long grass if you is clumsy) - once the spring clip is gone, push the pin thru.

last photo shoes the bits you need to be undoing - see the long shaft with the 25mm long nut shaped into it, and the locknut on the end of it? The long shaft has a thread either end - hold the shaft with a 10mm spanner, then undo the nut with another 10mm spanner. One of these shaft threads will be whats called left handed (normally has a small notch in it) - nut tightens the other way - you need to undo both locknuts either end, then spin the long shaft out of there

If the job can wait, we will be doing some work on bikes at Lee's place in the next few weeks - check 2 stroke section for info

Good job posting the pics - heaps easier to explain with good pics

[rc_sam]

For question 1, that is an e-clip. use a small flat blade screwdriver between the gap in clip and the pin and give the screwdriver a twist, the pin will probably go flying somewhere, so do it around a towel or in a plastic bag.

For question 2, the balljoint is pressed in, you won't get it off without destroying it.

[PatB]

On the first one, it's a circlip or C-clip. To remove, get a screwdriver between the pin and the clip (that's what those cut outs in the clip are for) and lever it outwards. Watch it carefully as it flies across your garage and disappears under the beer fridge. You'll need it later . Replacement is best done with a large pair of pliers or swan-necks to push the clip back into the groove. With the clip off, the pin should just push or pull out. Seriously though, they can ping across the room a bit. A rag tied around the general area before you start levering will contain it's more extreme tendencies.

The ball joint is more mysterious. It looks to be permanently fitted. you may have to unscrew the linkage pushrod and leave the ball joint itself attached to the lever.

[vbroom]

awesome cheers for the quick reply guys.

one more question....if i took of the shift link rod and just peeled the covers off, could i powdercoat the whole thing with the ball joints in? does it matter if i get paint in the balljoints....i'm assuming the paint would just wear off as i moved the joint around.

[rc_sam]

Powder coating process will damage the rubber caps and possibly the ball joints.
What i did for my linkages, was to tape over the rubber caps and just use normal spray paint and paint everything else.

[bertie]

powdercoating requires baking at about 140 deg i believe.
All the lube in your ball joint may run out. if the lube doesnt damage the fresh soft hot powdercoating it might seize up later coz of lack of lube or corrosion.

[PatB]

All the lube in your ball joint may run out. if the lube doesnt damage the fresh soft hot powdercoating it might seize up later coz of lack of lube or corrosion.

Not to mention your friendly local powder coater becoming rather less friendly 'cos you've just coated the inside of his oven with oily shit.

If you must powder coat everything, you'll have to look at getting a replacement ball or rose joint to graft into the lever after coating. Then you could drill the existing ball out and chuck it.

Careful use of masking tapeand rattle cans looks like an attractive option .

[bertie]

if your going to spray the lever i would suggest priming it with an etch primer before using your $3 rattly matt black. more chance of the black staying where its intended.

[vbroom]

awesome. yeah sam, thanks for the idea. i'll be doing that instead then. save me the trouble of messing with the ball joints.

cheers again for the helpful info people.