Removing a f*#ked bolt?

[Broms]

I've got a new pair of rearsets that desparately want to be fitted to my bike but a stuffed bolt has stopped my progress.

The bolt is a 6mm hex...each attempt by me is making it worse. I have tried multigrips on the outside too...no luck.

any ideas would be greatly appreciated.

[ENVEE 2]

i would say an easy-out, but if its to stubborn that you have stripped the hex, you may need to drill it out, and retap the hole... if the drilling and tapping turns pair shaped, may be able to save it with a helicoil, or alternately, if there are no clearence issues behind the original threaded lug, use a nut and bolt of length to suit with some loctite.....
im guessing this is on the CBR Broms?

[Neil-51]

If you have a socket 6mm hex try it in an impact driver. Have you tried belting the end of the bolt with a hammer first? That may help.

If it gets to the point where the head is too stuffed you might have to drill the head off which will take the tension off the bolt and you may be able to remove it using multi grips on the protruding shaft...or drill and eaziout. good luck

[Broms]

im guessing this is on the CBR Broms?

No, the MV. My feet were slipping at that last TS, so I bought some grippier ones from FBF.

So it's not an urgent mod to get on the track...just new parts and me wanting them on NOW

Thanks for the tips...I'll go and have another go at it.

[BigTim]

Just adding to what the other's have said, try everything else before drilling the bolt. It's really a last resort in most cases. If you don't have a 6mm hex socket and an impact driver, try getting the next size down socket you own (even if it's an imperial, not metric), and try tapping it gently onto the head of the bolt. It'll ruin the bolt head a bit more, but that's not really important at the moment. Then try turning it off.

Also, try tightening up the rest of the rear-set bolts back up. If all the other bolts are tight, it may release a bit of tension off the stuck bolt.

Good luck with it

[Mr M00se]

also at a worst case somtimes you can hammer a flathead screwdriver into the socket, just make sure you have a way to turn the screw driver once its in there, usually i drill a hole thru the handle so that i can put a metal bar thru the handle to get the torque i need to spin the bolt, something to try before drilling the head off

[lobo]

all good ideas, try a bit of heat on it too, that sometimes helps, but normally thats one of the first things to use, so i would go with some of the other ideas
good luck

[CB Boy]

also at a worst case somtimes you can hammer a flathead screwdriver into the socket, just make sure you have a way to turn the screw driver once its in there, usually i drill a hole thru the handle so that i can put a metal bar thru the handle to get the torque i need to spin the bolt, something to try before drilling the head off

Zactly....you can use an adjustable spanner on the grip of the screwdriver (It has flat surfaces) to turn it once you have hammered it into the bolt head

[hardknox]

Yes on the tapping on the head with a hammer which can give a little shock that will help loosen the bolt.
Don't know the situation. but check there is not a nut on the other side.
You can get a paste that has crushed diamonds in it to increase friction, but it is really designed more for phillips heads.
If it is really stuffed you can cut a slot in it and use an impact driver.
Apply a little heat with a heat gun. Might help and also it may softed any locktite.

[CT90]

Try bashing the imperial allen key close to that size (1/4") like Big Tim suggested or if as you say you can get multigrips on the outside, squeeze them harder. I am assuming that they are genuine vice grips because those crap ones don't work, they just expand/bend. All else fails, drill.

[Broms]

Thanks guys, tried most of your tips....broke the end off a Stanley screwdriver....must be tight.

I don't feel confident enought to drill it. I'd have a go on the CBR, but I could easily stuff this up and cost some $$$.......

I've been collecting a few cooling mods to install at the 6,000 km service, so I may have to learn to be patient and leave this to then also...bloody frustrating.

[CT90]

I don't feel confident enought to drill it. I'd have a go on the CBR, but I could easily stuff this up and cost some $$$.......

There are people that do thread repair for a living if your not confident. Try the Yellow pages.

[Broms]

Thanks, I'll ride it somewhere next week...I am still 1,500kms from the 6k service and I'm not that patient.

[robwas]

I've got a new pair of rearsets that desparately want to be fitted to my bike but a stuffed bolt has stopped my progress.

The bolt is a 6mm hex...each attempt by me is making it worse. I have tried multigrips on the outside too...no luck.

any ideas would be greatly appreciated.

I have tools & experience etc. A bit out of the way though!
PM if I can help

[Cbr1k]

Dude you just need an adjustable pipe spanner. I use one all the time. Its an adjustable spanner than has a reversable jaw that forms a serrated "V" and grips any roundthing except hard-chromed.

Cost $20 from Toolmart

[Ryven]

The pipe spanner or easy out should do it.

I had a similar problem, only with a scew, a couple of months ago. Wouldn't budge with a screwdriver. Drilled a small hole, easy out took the screw out in about half a second.

[Incognito]

If the bolt is that tight it would be more than likely that an 'easy out' would snap.

If you do damage the thread, you could consider drilling the thread out, re-tapping and fitting a helicoil. This would mean that you keep the standard size bolts, rather than having bastard size stuff here and there (a pain in the arse).

Try buying a 3/8 or half inch drive hex socket, rather than using an allen key.

I suggest shocking it first with hammer, spray it with WD40 or something like it, leave it a while, for the oil to penetrate, then try again using an impact driver. Its unlikely you would be able to get it out using turning force alone.

[Mr M00se]

Theres some awsome locktite freeze spray out on the market too that you should try. You should be able to get it from and decent auto store, its awsome stuff

[Stephan]

By the sound of it, the bolt is loctied in and in a cast/frame? Be very carefull with heating it up if that is the case! You change the cast structure and could develop cracks. Heatgun is ok, but do not use an oxy set, unless you know what you are doing.

[Mr M00se]

By the sound of it, the bolt is loctied in and in a cast/frame? Be very carefull with heating it up if that is the case! You change the cast structure and could develop cracks. Heatgun is ok, but do not use an oxy set, unless you know what you are doing.

+1 to that, its allot easier getting someone else to remove a bolt than trying to find a replacement mv part. Best bet would be to get the freezespray or penatrene if you cant find it, put it on a few times each day for a couple of days then try to get a high quality imperial allen key/socket in there (the closest larger size you can go)