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SANTA CRUZ — When it comes to sports superstars, few fly farther under the radar than world-class rock climber Chris Sharma. His talents in climbing are considered on par with Michael Jordan’s in basketball. His ego, however, would seem more closely matched to modest tennis great Pete Sampras.
But all that’s about to change. The man who has been called humble, spiritual, even reticent in innumerous articles and interviews said he thinks, in truth, he’s a bit uppity.
“A lot of people focus on climbing. I focus on climbing hard routes, but I’m kind of a snob, I guess,” he said Tuesday while taking a break from his world travels to do some skateboarding here in his hometown.
“I want to climb hard routes, but I want something that inspires me”
Sharma, 26, has the ability to climb just about anything anywhere. But he said he turns up his nose at any problem — no matter how challenging — that’s not also picturesque.
“The esthetics for me, that’s the thing,” he said. “To find these amazing pieces of rock that also have another element. That’s kind of the definition of king lines: They’re big and hard and amazing, but they also have that esthetic”
Sharma began searching the world for rocks to climb at age 17. In the nine years since, he has found and conquered many of the gnarliest rocks in the most beautiful corners of the planet. Now his search for these “king lines,” as he calls them, is the subject of a documentary by the same name that will be shown Sept. 7 at the Rio Theatre as the headliner for the Reel Rock Film Tour.
Directors and college buddies Josh Lowell of Big Up Productions and Peter Mortimer of Sender Films teamed up to make “King Lines,” which has the highest budget of an climbing film in history and won an Emmy for a high-definition segment that appeared on NBC earlier this year. Mortimer said the project came together organically once Sharma told them the location and difficulty of his most recent project. It was Es Pontas, a line up a towering limestone arch encircled by sapphire blue waters off the coast of Mallorca, Spain.
“The arch is something where if you imagined a fantasy climb, that’s what you would imagine,” Lowell said. “It’s this perfect arch rising out of the Mediterranean Sea, and the movement that’s required to climb it is pretty amazing, too. If there was a video game of climbing, that arch would be in it.
“We thought, ‘Wow,’” Lowell added. “If Chris can do this thing, it will be the coolest thing he’s done and the coolest thing we’ve filmed.’ ”
Conquering Es Pontas entailed deep-water soloing, a climbing style fairly new to Sharma in which he would use no rope and rely on the water below to break his falls. Near the top of the climb was a 7-foot blank stretch, which he would have to jump, or dyno in climbing lingo, to complete the climb. Sharma estimates he made at least 100 failed attempts to get across that section, each time plummeting 35 feet into the jelly fish-filled water below.
A fall meant starting over completely. Sharma would have swim to the support boat, dry off, change his clothes and shoes and get a new chalk bag to help his muscular fingers grip the small divots and crevices in the slippery stone. Then he would begin again at the bottom of the arch, making at least 25 moves before he arrived back at the daunting blank section.
It took Sharma nearly four months’ time, spaced out over a year, before he finally landed his 7-foot leap of faith and picked his way to the top of the arch. Once there, though, his celebration was subdued, with the joy from completing a difficult task mixing with the melancholy of knowing his time with Es Pontas had ended.
“Obviously really I was ecstatic, really psyched. But climbing is this thing that happens in the process. Once you do it, you’re psyched, but that’s the end of the process,” Sharma said. “When you complete it, that’s great. But then it’s like, ‘What’s next?’ ”
He wasted little time finding out.
Sharma’s sponsors pay him to find exotic climbs, so as soon as his time with Es Pontas ended, the hunt for another challenge began. By the end of the shooting for “King Lines,” the film crew had followed him around Venezuela, France, Greece, Utah and Southern California.
Most recently, they filmed him working on his current obsession. It’s a sport climb across the ceiling of a 300-foot cave off Interstate 15 in the Mojave Desert that has so few changes in pitch it requires an extra-long rope. He’ll return there in October in the hopes of completing it, which Mortimer said would probably make it the most difficult climb ever made.
Once that experience ends, Sharma said he will continue to seek out other new and unique challenges. Undoubtedly, they’ll all be set in some of the most beautiful places in the world.
But Lowell and Mortimer said they can’t blame Sharma for picking climbs in the prettiest places. They noted that it makes it much easier for him to draw the attention photographers and filmmakers like themselves [location, location, location]. And, it makes for a much nicer work environment.
Plus, after spending months following Sharma and working with him through some fairly unglamorous situations, they’re convinced his penchant for the picturesque climbs doesn’t really come from snobbery.
“That’s like saying someone who has a palette for really good food is a snob,” Mortimer said. “That’s so not true”
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