I was a pool service man for two years, used to do 8-10 pools a day, 5 days a week....you see a lot of pool equipment, moral of the story.....
Salt
- Good for big and little pools - once set up and working maintenance time will reduce for the long term.
-Smell, even though the chlorine is still at the exact same levels in a sodium hypochlorite treated pool (3-4ppm) the salt content (3000-5000ppm) helps mask the smell.
-Sore eyes? Not sold on this one, high chlorine levels will hurt anyone's eyes doesn't matter if it's produce by a salt chlorinator or liquid chlorine. Having said that...most peeps with sensitive eyes reckon salt pools are kinder on their eyes...eyes=saline....pool=strong saline.....makes sense.
-Cost of Chems- 25kg bag of salt is like 5-10 bucks its all the same. Sodium Hypochlorite on the other hand is not always the same strength from place to place, plus its usually more expensive for each top up.
-ACID....No one has mentioned acid at all....Story of my life working in pools....acid is very important as it obviously keeps your pH level down. Acid=low, alkaline/basic=high pH. As the pH increases in your pool the chlorine becomes less effective at controlling bacteria etc. This is the main reason I believe people are always talking about pools are the sore eyes syndrome. Chlorine in high levels in your pool is still able to irritate even if the pH is high. Keep it normal! JUST AS IMPORTANT AS CHLORINE!!!! Fibreglass pool= 7-7.2, concrete=7.6-7.8, Concrete vinyl liner=7-7.6.
Acid is something that is added for you when you have a chemigem, usually in the form of Sulfuric "No fume" Acid (prolonges the short life of the armatures) Hydrochloric fumes will kill them much faster... Due to it being stronger hydrochloric is usually used for salt pools. I'd reckon your sized pool would go through about 1-3L in a month in winter, roughly 3- as much as 10L a month in summer. The issue with your pool is the size...Its well above average for a backyard pool.
-Just to get your pool going you're gonna need 250-350kg of salt and then prob a bag (25kg) a month in winter, and 2-4 (50-100kg) a month in summer (dependent on use and whether you have a cover)
-Cyanuric acid? 30-60ppm MAXIMUM is 60ppm!!!! Chlorine lock will occur above this...= BAD!!!
-Calcium? 220-300ppm lower than 220 can damage, concrete, plastics, metals (brittle salt cells anyone?), fibreglass gel coating.... Slow damage....BUT Very bad and expensive later... too high? Everything goes white and scaly, salt cell will cake up fast, your filter will block up gradually...(uber crap) Also can cause eye hurties
-Sodium Bicarbonate? Least important chemical but same a before an damage things if not correct 80-120ppm. Eye hurties. Also if correct helps stabilise the pH, so when you add your acid you get a consistent reaction.
For your pool.
From here
New Pools
1 gram per litre raises the salt level by 1000 ppm. 4 grams per litre will raise the salt level by 4000 ppm. Therefore an 80 000 litre pool will require 320 000 grams or 320 kilograms of salt. Simply multiply 4 grams by the volume of water in litres to get the required amount of salt.
BTW I ran out of energy.
Hope this info helps, can't be assed writing anymore. hehe
Salt pools are usually better in the long run.
IMPORTANT: Get a chlorinator too big for your pool, the last thing you want is to have it flat out in summer and going green as soon as its used.
Keep your salt, PH and Calcium levels right all the time, just a weekly check should be enough if unused, otherwise check it before use. No-one needs reminding for Chlorine (No Chlorine=Green.....usually) The others chemical being correct will save you headaches later. Trust me....I'm the poolman....



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Torbs


Thats my kinda pool, no to very low maintenance 
) but it helps keep the warmth in the water. The other thing i reckon is well worth the money, pool solar heating
) on your roof. They install a air release valve on the roof as well (so when the secondary pump turns off the water flows back into your pool, and doesn't spoil on your roof), they install two temp sensors as well, one in the normal circulation line, and one on the roof, both of these are hooked up to a control unit, which then turns the pump on depending on the temp difference and what you made your water temp setpoint. 


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