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Thread: SWTK - Where do you set your clutch friction point?

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    Member Slick89's Avatar
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    SWTK - Where do you set your clutch friction point?

    i set mine to about halfway

    like it this way as i get the jump on lights without reving to high

    some think my way is strange as they have theres up high like 4/5th up but ive got use to it and now i overrev bikes with high friction points when taking off

    is it a personal preference thing or is there a generaly accepted friction point?

    where is yours set?

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    MODERATOR Arwon's Avatar
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    You actually should set a cable clutch with 3-5mm freeplay and the pinch point. Where it disengages after that is a property of the clutch construction.
    Atlas Performance, dyna pumps, " your name goes here"

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    Member filbert's Avatar
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    +1 set the freeplay by the manual, trying to adjust the friction point is a noob mistake and usually results in excessive clutch wear or slipping.

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    I have mine about 1/3 to 1/2 from the bar.

    As long as the clutch disengages when pulled in, and fully engages when released, I don't see why adjusting the friction point is a "noob mistake"?
    Respect is earned, not enforced.

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    Member filbert's Avatar
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    If your clutch ends up dragging with the lever against the bar and wears out prematurely it will be a noob mistake

    Don't forget you have above average mechanical aptitude and understanding duffman, someone asking this question doesn't or they wouldn't ask.

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    Member thro's Avatar
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    Freeplay measurement, as stated.

    you DONT want the cable to be tight enough so that its possible that the bars may cause the clutch to be disengaged slightly while turning the bars or otherwise - otherwise you're prone to encourage it to slip under high load and wear out faster.
    stuff

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    Quote Originally Posted by Slick89 View Post
    like it this way as i get the jump on lights without reving to high

    where is yours set?
    About 3mm of freeplay for me, don't like a wobbly clutch leaver, but as others have stated, you need to make sure that when released, the leaver doesn't have any tension in the cable (this can change when it heats up), and when the leaver is pulled, it needs to fully disengage the clutch.

    As far as launches go...If you want to 'get the jump', try this.
    Pull the clutch in, grab first gear, slowly (I mean really slowly, you don't want to move the bike) ease the clutch out until the bike JUST try to creep forwards, pull the clutch back in 1-2mm, now bring your revs to a spot where you and your bike like it (some people are barely above idle, others near redline), then work on releasing the clutch smoothly, while wrapping the throttle on hard.

    No more over revving, no delay in finding the clutches friction point as you let it out, no waiting for the revs to rise, just a faster, smoother, more controlled, way to launch.
    Also much easier to adapt between bikes.
    season 2012 is coming.....

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