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About LinkBacks520, 525, and 530 does not refer to the pitch. It is the chain width. 520 is the lightest, a good quality one will easily handle the power your motor puts out...
520, 525, and 530 does not refer to the pitch. It is the chain width. 520 is the lightest, a good quality one will easily handle the power your motor puts out...
what rich said,
but add to that if you're getting new sprockets then you should really get a new chain which simplifies things, buy sprockets then match chain to sprockets or buy chain and match sprockets to chain
Do you remember the good old days before the internet?
when arguments were only entered into by the physically or intellectually able.
well got the front 14t sproket and rear 39t sprocket ordered from Wayno
and I also ordered a anodised alternator cover along with a sprocket cover and I have sent the rear sets to the powder coater yester day.
The bike looks like a wreck at the moment but the cleaning is still ongoing.
I will post some pics up this W/E of the mess so you have a general idea of the chaos that is my garage!
hopfully I remember where everything goes back?
god I miss riding it
RR
What was your original rear sprocket?
Do you remember the good old days before the internet?
when arguments were only entered into by the physically or intellectually able.
39, is that bad??Originally Posted by filbert
or is the combo bad? being 14t at the front?
RR
Combo is fine just curious, if you're wanting the gain in pickup etc from a tooth smaller on the front sprocket then the rear should be the same as before, I was thinking you may have had 15/45 (common ratio on motards and trailbikes) to start with which would mean your new 14/39 would be pretty much the same as going a tooth bigger up front 16/45 and would have been the opposite effect and a waste of time and money.
Do you remember the good old days before the internet?
when arguments were only entered into by the physically or intellectually able.
14 - 39 is what i run on all my dukes.
Fun Fun!!!
Well I started to sort out all the bits I have stripped so i can put them in some order and took the front sprocket off, was a little bit fiddly with a breaker bar in one hand and my 1/2 rattle gun in the other but bam and it was off,
Bad thing was however it is already a 14t sprocket, so no extra speed for me(maybe got a 13T??? lol)
so far i have only lost one bolt to the exhaust flange but I might just get SS bolts to replace them, here are a few pics as promised:
Now this area of the bike was covered in 2 inches of grease, wish I took a pic, I have never seen so much shit on a bike/car, oh well out with the trusty gear, I have found this Degreaser from auto Glym and its designed for bikes, dosnt take paint off and is still very effective, along with motor cycle cleaner it works great, then a little bit of silicon spray before I finaly polish in the assembly stage, which im very much looking forward to
and here are a few naked,naked pics:
well next week I should be seeing boxes from all over the world including my re powder coated rear sets, then I will paint my headers and start assembly just in time for the new tank and rear cowl,
stay tunned
RR
Nice work man!! Love the cleaning effort - I've got to do that soon.
You sure about painting the headers?? You do know they're stainless steel right??
This department requires no physical fitness program, as everyone gets more than enough exercise jumping to conclusions, flying off the handle, running down the boss, dodging responsibility, and pushing their luck.
See my cage here http://forum.britishv8.org/read.php?13,11702
nup there mild steel, otherwise I would have had them polished, I got a quote to Ceramic coat them and it was $300.00 so I figure I can use this VHT stuff with ceramic in it and get a lower carbon fairing to hide the pipes a little, I come out $160 better off and it should look good with a lower fairing?
Glider can you still help with the fairing? or have you sold it?
RR
Still got it Rob, it's somewhere in my Monster scrapheap/parts emporium
Rob one thing to consider with the 14T front is that it may place your chain too close to the swingarm and drag on the chain guide.
Some say it also can reduce chain life as the chain has to make a tighter turn under load.
I may be incorrect but I think a 525 chain is preferred on a 1000cc Monster, My S2R runs one as standard.
I put a 14 on my old 695 which now is my wife's bike though with no issues ,duel sided swingarm like yours , although I raised the rear ride height slightly.
When it came time to put a new chain on it instead of putting the 14 back on I went back to the 15 and went
up three on the rear. Same effect but less strain on the chain.
The best thing about 14 is it reduces the lugging at low speed low revs in traffic and gives a little more zip off the lights but losses a bit of top end speed.
On my S2R I run a 14 40 and like it.
Also with the VHT paint another thing to consider, I also coated the misses headers as they looked (in a french accent ) "orible" with the same paint from memory it was fire something.
Looks great.... BUT it needs to be re sprayed occasionally as it losses its nice finnish after a while , also it smokes and stinks nasty fumes when you first fire it up.
The headers on my S2R looked like shit and instead of paint I just used elbow grease emory paper and a green scratchy with WD40 and they came up a treat but require
regular doses of elbow grease to keep them gleaming.
Dez
you sure the headers are mild steel? I thought they were all stainless....
agreed they do look like the standard issue stainless, some assume they're not because they get surface rust, common misunderstanding since they marketed steel that stains less as stainless
i'm with the others RR hit them up with some stainless steel wool and water get them clean and shiny, then finish off with a metal polish and give them a touch up every month or so otherwise leave the natural bluing and patina to build and what you have now will be the result.
Do you remember the good old days before the internet?
when arguments were only entered into by the physically or intellectually able.
Nup guys I am 90% positive it is not stainless, I saw on Ebay a brand new set for $100 and they were a dull powder coated silver, I have hit them with WD40 and 400 grit sand paper and nothing, they are coming back a bit but still very dark and rusty looking,
And even if it was Stainless the rust should come off and leave a pitted mark, that is just not happening?
I will go over it again but it looks like the painting is the only option,
on another note my Rear pads have come in and my oil cooler gaurd should not be too far away,
Im having issues with the rear sets but, the powder coater says the paint is not coming off completely and he dosnt sand blast?
He also said there to delicate to sand blast??
so I dont know what the go is there, they have to be done might need to take them somewhere else??
Drama's, dotn you love them
RR
I'm pretty sure the exhausts are stainless... have you tried a magnet on em?
Mine were a drama, but I polished em and they come up good. when they get hot they go a nice gold color...
get the footpeg brackets blasted with garnet. they're are not fragile at all! its the only way to get the paint off! did mine a long time ago with no drama's (I've since gone with rearsets)
I just cleaned a set of headers ,worked well with a 200 mm bench grinder and a polishing wheel you will get covered in black crap doing it ,give me a call if you want me to show you how .
My stainless steel kitchen utensils stick to a magnet, depends very much upon the grade.
Do you remember the good old days before the internet?
when arguments were only entered into by the physically or intellectually able.
I vote Ceramic Coat the headers.
If I'm not mistaken, Stainless STEEL will attract a magnet.........
This department requires no physical fitness program, as everyone gets more than enough exercise jumping to conclusions, flying off the handle, running down the boss, dodging responsibility, and pushing their luck.
See my cage here http://forum.britishv8.org/read.php?13,11702
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