What's the best approach for fitting track fairing?

[Rhino]

G'day racers and fanatics.

I've bought a set through Pro-Fibre that does not have pre-drilled holes.
Although, the hole positions are kinda indicated with a slight emboss.

What's the best approach to ensure a good fit?

Join top and bottom halves together first and go from there?
Get the top squared away first and work back?

I'm trying not to overthink it but I want to make sure I don't do a loose, botch job.

Any advice appreciated

Thanks guys.

[Ozboy]

I've found that fitting the top fairing first then align the lower fairing to the top works best. As the lower section fits inside the upper, I found it easier to line up.

Has your bike been on its side? Mine is a repairable writeoff and most of the brackets are bent. The fairing stay usually comes out straight, so thats the best place to start, BUT always fit the fairing and line the holes up as best as possible before drilling away. Maybe use a fine tip marker to pinpoint the holes that are easiest to get to and pilot drill the holes to see how central you are to the bracket.

I found that most of the holes were drilled fairly central to the "slight emboss" but others were a fair way off.

Let us know how your upper fairing fits to the tank, I had this problem. I also found it easier to get help with the front fender, its a tricky little bugger on your own.

[Rhino]

Thanks Oz.

Nope, bike has never been on it's side so the stays shouldn't have moved.

I'll have a play with the nose and see how it looks. Hopefully I won't have to do too much cutting (eg stand).

Also, Clarke Rubber for seat foam? It needs to be pretty durable obviously. Do they do something good.

And dzus fasteners. I forgot to order them. Anyone local have 'em?

Cheers

[thugsfatboy464]

Just starting to fit up race glass to my Bimmer ,i ordered my Dzus from the states as you will pay $15 each here

[BigTim]

And dzus fasteners. I forgot to order them. Anyone local have 'em?

I've got two of these 10 packs- KurveyGirl - Motorcycle Stuff: Dzus Fasteners, angled valve stems, Vesrah and More
Was going to use them for a project, but am going a different direction with it now. You can have them for what I paid for them, which was $65, if you want mate.

Although, I think the length of fastener you go for kinda depends on the thickness of the bodywork, and I don't know if you'd need something shorter for raceglass.

[Rhino]

The holes are actually pretty damn close. Happy days.
Fair bit of cutting required on the belly pan though to accommodate the stand.

Tim. The bodywork is pretty thin. Maybe 2mm. If you put it in sunlight, you can see thin patches 'shining' through :s
Hopefully it holds up in a drop. Then again, hopefully I don't find out.
But, the brackets are reasonably deep. How long are they?

[Falcore]

Another option instead of drilling is soldering iron. Has worked in the past well for me

Sent from my HTC Desire using Tapatalk

[Rhino]

For what benefit over drilling?

[BigTim]

If the bodywork is thin, you might need the 12mm ones instead of the 14mm that I have, because the minimum grip of the 14mm fasteners is 5.5mm, using two plastic washers.
The information at the bottom of that link I posted explains thickness pretty well.

Either way, if you're keen to give it a crack over the weekend, you're welcome to grab these ones and see if they work. If not, just drop them back whenever's convenient.

[Arwon]

I always join the upper and lower fairings before I drill mounting holes, this way you don't end up with a stressed fairings.

You can use a heat gun to release any other stress and improve fit.

[GD66]

And when it comes to fitting the screen, do it outside on the sunniest, warmest day you can.
Or else, you will, ever so gently, tighten up a screw and ZIT! a small crack will appear, as if by magic...

[Ozboy]

The holes are actually pretty damn close. Happy days.
Fair bit of cutting required on the belly pan though to accommodate the stand.

Tim. The bodywork is pretty thin. Maybe 2mm. If you put it in sunlight, you can see thin patches 'shining' through :s
Hopefully it holds up in a drop. Then again, hopefully I don't find out.
But, the brackets are reasonably deep. How long are they?

I found the same with my bellypan, have been pondering whether to cut a section out of the fairing OR just do away with the stand.

Glad your holes lined up well, goes to show that having a straight bike really helps.

Have you got anyone in mind to do your paint Rhino?

[Rhino]

This set is for my road bike, not a dedicated track bike, and I ride my bike alot more these days, so I can't spend too much time on it in one sitting
I can't leave it in pieces for a week like I used to, so this might take a little while to sort out.

Tim, I'll check the link to see what they say about thickness.

Arwon, I think I might do that. I tried a quick match up just now and something's not quite right joining the two.
But because I can't position the bellypan properly cos of the missing stand hole, I'm not sure if it is actually a problem yet.
So looks like a big cut might be the first thing I do :S

GD66: My screen bolts have those rubber spacers that compress and give it that 'spring washer' tension.
But it's a lot gentler on the panels. I think it will be OK and again, the holes are pretty damn close.

Stirls, I'm hoping the stand will be relatively straight forward (and might give me an excuse for another air tool)
I can use an air tool on it right? Won't rip it to bits?
Template what's on my stock set, and cut away.

I was thinking of throwing the panels to MC Panel and Paint as I've dealt with them before and Simon has gone well above and beyond on my (very) hard to match 749 dark.
Otherwise, I was going to perhaps speak to Potato.

Not yet decided on whether to do a simple colour, or scheme it up a bit.

[Ozboy]

That was the worry I had, how was the kevlar going to cope with being cut, will it fray?? Who knows, I guess it'll just need 1 layer of glass over it if it does fray.

Not aure about using an air tool, I was going to cut it by hand with a fine hacksaw blade and the cutting stroke aimed towards the inside of the fairing so it doesn't chip the glass off the outside. You'll need to "dolly" the back of the fairing to keep it rigid while cutting, a small block of timber clamped to the back of the fairing will suffice OR lean on the corner of a beanch near the area you are going to cut.

I was also thinking of asking that wonderful Potato guy if he would paint my fairing.

[Thunderbird]

Good thread I am ordering my set of race fairings this weak so all these tips will come in handy. As for my paint job I was going to do a nice spray can job so when I drop it I can easily colour match the repairs. Any detail on my bike I will do with stickers, was going to see Tim at WTF as Ive heard good things about his work.

[Rhino]

All my sleuth-y efforts at measuring up the hole for the stand, exactly where I wanted it, and in the right shape, failed.
I have cut a bit of a hole out using my Dremel and a cutting disc. Worked pretty well, so I'll keep going with that.

I'll take the stand off and have another crack at measuring everything up this weekend and hopefully I'll make better, faster progress.
Hewie gave me a good tip, so if it pans out, I'll throw it up.

[Ozboy]

I had fun drilling the points for the brake line holders Rhino, thats a doozy mate. All went well, which surprised me.

[Ozboy]

Hey Rhino I managed to get the lower fairing on without any cutting to the area around the stand. It just seemed to go together today without a hitch.

[XXX3]

Damn Stirl, that bike is looking hot.

[Rhino]

Yeah, that aint gonna work for me

PS: How good are those vortex rearsets? Love em!