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12-04-2008, 11:19 PM
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#101 (permalink)
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K7 GSX-R 1000
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Mandurah
Posts: 3,888
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thro
Nah, don't like the gixxer ride position - personal preference...
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Fair enough... I rode them both back to back and loved them both. Gixxer was 2.5K cheaper 
But would still love a 600RR... It was so hard to split them! So I am going to get the one Rooster has been teasing us about.
Uh, back to passing RE now. Yes, CS blipping in the test is an excellent idea. 
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14-04-2008, 07:57 PM
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#102 (permalink)
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CBR600RR7, 1.5x VJ22 RGV250
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Canning Vale
Posts: 10,592
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^^ yeah well maybe "don't like" was a bit harsh. "preferred the honda" is probably more accurate.
obligatory tip for REs going for tests soonish - get some wet weather pants. There's nothing more irritating than water dripping into your crotch. Don't be a miserable git when you get rained on in your test - riding in rain isn't too bad if you have appropriate gear - and pants are cheap 
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14-04-2008, 10:16 PM
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#103 (permalink)
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Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 562
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thro
^^ yeah well maybe "don't like" was a bit harsh. "preferred the honda" is probably more accurate.
obligatory tip for REs going for tests soonish - get some wet weather pants. There's nothing more irritating than water dripping into your crotch. Don't be a miserable git when you get rained on in your test - riding in rain isn't too bad if you have appropriate gear - and pants are cheap 
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hopefully not more than $200
my test is mid June
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15-04-2008, 10:07 PM
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#104 (permalink)
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K7 GSX-R 1000
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Mandurah
Posts: 3,888
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dirty Sandchairs
hopefully not more than $200
my test is mid June
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I recently got pants and a jacket for under a hunge.
I think you are set mate 
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15-04-2008, 10:41 PM
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#105 (permalink)
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CBR600RR7, 1.5x VJ22 RGV250
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Canning Vale
Posts: 10,592
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I got some wet weather over-pants for $40 from Totals I think?
They're not the most durable stuff in the world, but they lasted through last winter, and will likely see me through this winter as well.
For $40, it's money well spent.
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15-04-2008, 10:45 PM
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#106 (permalink)
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K7 GSX-R 1000
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Mandurah
Posts: 3,888
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Yup, about $35 from one of the Causeway shops my pants were. Yet to test them, but its better than being drowned.
Pick some up just in case... Every little bit counts, especially in your test.
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17-04-2008, 04:24 PM
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#107 (permalink)
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VJ22 RGV250
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Belmont
Posts: 278
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Well I'm going for my R-E tomorrow at Midland, apparently theres going to be showers, wish me luck
The only thing I'm worried about is in the emergency stop, either being too nervous about locking the wheels and going for like 20m before I stop or I'm going to brake too hard and lock the wheels 
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17-04-2008, 11:13 PM
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#108 (permalink)
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CBR600RR7, 1.5x VJ22 RGV250
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Canning Vale
Posts: 10,592
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kiknet
Well I'm going for my R-E tomorrow at Midland, apparently theres going to be showers, wish me luck
The only thing I'm worried about is in the emergency stop, either being too nervous about locking the wheels and going for like 20m before I stop or I'm going to brake too hard and lock the wheels 
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So long as you keep out of the oil, you can brake pretty hard, so long as you are PROGRESSIVE with the front brake. ie, gradually squeeze harder as you feel the front sinking (don't just yank the brake on hard) - the more the front sinks, the more grip you have.
I did my E stop in around 8m in the wet - don't panic, there's plenty of space if your technique is good.
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18-04-2008, 12:06 AM
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#109 (permalink)
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VJ22 RGV250
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Belmont
Posts: 278
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thro
So long as you keep out of the oil, you can brake pretty hard, so long as you are PROGRESSIVE with the front brake. ie, gradually squeeze harder as you feel the front sinking (don't just yank the brake on hard) - the more the front sinks, the more grip you have.
I did my E stop in around 8m in the wet - don't panic, there's plenty of space if your technique is good.
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Ah cool, now I just have to calm my nerves, I'm worried that I'll do something stupid like drop the bike at the first turn 
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18-04-2008, 11:28 AM
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#110 (permalink)
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Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 562
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kiknet
Ah cool, now I just have to calm my nerves, I'm worried that I'll do something stupid like drop the bike at the first turn 
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how'd you go?
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18-04-2008, 12:09 PM
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#111 (permalink)
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VJ22 RGV250
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Belmont
Posts: 278
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21-04-2008, 07:59 AM
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#113 (permalink)
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Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Kalgoorlie
Posts: 5
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This is a great thread, I just read through it all.
I also didn't know what MILO meant until now.
I'm heading off for a lesson with Alert today while i'm in Perth for the week.
The only thing that is possibly bothering/ still confusing me about this thread is road position, I think that depends who your taught by, it will vary.
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21-04-2008, 07:12 PM
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#114 (permalink)
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CBR600RR7, 1.5x VJ22 RGV250
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Canning Vale
Posts: 10,592
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^^ hmm not really - there's just a bunch of rules of thumb for specific situations - but the general teaching should be the same - because the base idea is consistent...
The *general idea* is to
a. give yourself a buffer between you and oncoming traffic (eg: no island, single lane per direction = stay left)
b. give yourself escape route(s) (dual carriage way = stay left of right lane or right of left lane - near the middle so you can change lanes to avoid obstacles easy)
c. avoid turning across traffic (ie, if turning left, stay left - don't try and turn left from the right side of the road and vice versa).
d. if you're in a residential area, use your judgement as to what is the more likely hazard - if there's no cars coming for miles, but kids playing by the side of the road or cars parked on the verge for example, you might ride closer to the middle of the road (still left lane!) even though the usual rule of thumb is to stay left on single carriage-way / non divided road...
What one instructor may tell you in a given situation must be taken in context - there's no 100% rule of "ride right in this spot" because it depends on the circumstances you face.
You need to *think* about whats going on around you at that particular moment, and ride appropriately - once you've gotten a decent amount of practice in and figured out how it all works, it will come somewhat naturally without thinking.... practice practice practice
As an example - if you're riding down the freeway and overtaking a truck, I would ride to the right of the right lane somewhat so that *if* the truck decides to turn into my lane, I see it coming some time before i get squished (i'd also wind on the throttle and get the fuck out of dodge, but for the sake of riding within the letter of the law, at the limit  )... then once past, go back to right of left lane or left of right....
edit:
I am not an instructor, so ask yours for confirmation, etc - but that's my take on it...
Last edited by thro; 21-04-2008 at 07:22 PM.
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26-04-2008, 08:18 AM
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#115 (permalink)
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Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 363
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Hi, complete noob here and ill be honest , i am upgrading from my scooter (woohoo!) to a 250, however i have never ridden a bike with gears before. So before i go and get some lessons I wanted to ask aa few, somewhat basic and silly q's from someone who has never ridden before.
1) When changing from nuetral to 1st and releasing the clutch, can you release the clutch quickly or, similarly to a car, you have to release the clutch slowly so the gear grabs? Is this the same for all gears?
2) when slowing down to a stop do you (upon your test) have to put the bike in nuetral or can you hold the clutch in and leave it in first?
3) the drive safe book says you should use both front and rear brakes together when braking. When doing the test when you have to brake, do you use both brakes or just the front? How many meters lattitude do you get to stop within?
Sorry with the basic q's, my lil scooty has CVT transmission (auto) thus never had to worry about gears- and i rekon this will be the hardest to get used to on a bike.
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26-04-2008, 09:54 AM
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#116 (permalink)
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Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 562
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by Revelations
1) When changing from nuetral to 1st and releasing the clutch, can you release the clutch quickly or, similarly to a car, you have to release the clutch slowly so the gear grabs? Is this the same for all gears?
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In learning you will release slow so you get the hang of what your revs should be.
Quote:
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Originally Posted by Revelations
2) when slowing down to a stop do you (upon your test) have to put the bike in nuetral or can you hold the clutch in and leave it in first?
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No, just clutch in and kick down to first if you are stopping.
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26-04-2008, 10:24 AM
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#117 (permalink)
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CBR600RR7, 1.5x VJ22 RGV250
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Canning Vale
Posts: 10,592
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Revelations
2) when slowing down to a stop do you (upon your test) have to put the bike in nuetral or can you hold the clutch in and leave it in first?
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As a rule, *never* put the bike in neutral when stopped at a light or stop sign, etc.
This is so that if some bastard approaches quickly from behind, and doesn't stop - you can see them coming in your mirrors (make sure you keep an eye on your mirrors when stopped!) and move out of the way in a hurry.
I can tell you now, it happens, i've personally nearly been rear-ended from idiots who weren't stopping on more than one occasion - so be in gear ready to move.
Quote:
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3) the drive safe book says you should use both front and rear brakes together when braking. When doing the test when you have to brake, do you use both brakes or just the front? How many meters lattitude do you get to stop within?
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Use both brakes, but place more concentration on the front, as thats where your braking power will come from.
You could do the emergency stop using front only, but using the rear a little will help stabilise the bike under brakes. You don't need a heap of rear brake though - and not enough rear brake is better than too much. Basically you want just enough rear brake to stabilise the bike - practice braking using both brakes and the front only, and you'll see what I mean - the bike will feel more planted with a little bit of rear.
To pass the test, you need to be able to stop from 50km/h in 12 metres.
If you've practiced your emergency stops you should be able to do it in just over half that in the dry - when practicing I'd aim to be able to do it comfortably in 8-9m or better, and then on the test you'll have no worries.
Last edited by thro; 26-04-2008 at 10:37 AM.
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26-04-2008, 01:09 PM
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#118 (permalink)
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Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 363
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thanks for the replies guys, it will be easier to stay in first rather than have to find nuetral all the time, cheers 
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26-04-2008, 01:37 PM
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#119 (permalink)
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250 Hyobusa
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Perth
Posts: 1,652
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Revelations
thanks for the replies guys, it will be easier to stay in first rather than have to find nuetral all the time, cheers 
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Not just that but when you are in first and you see some stupid women in a car approaching you at a red light at great speed talking on her phone you can quickly GTFO the way.
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27-04-2008, 02:01 PM
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#120 (permalink)
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Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 363
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is learning to use the gears on a bike that hard? For example can you ride the clutch when you downshift or do you release the clutch? DO you need to ease the throttle between each change then throttle on, or can you just upshift the gears whilst keeping the throttle in one spot?
Sorry for the somewhat easy q's but its the gears which make me nervous about going for my licence. I presume you get used to them easy but i think my little scotty with 'twist and go' isnt teaching me very good habits.
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