What to look for when buying a CBR250RR

Michael · 23-07-2008, 10:12 AM

Hey,

Im going to have alook at another CBR250RR this weekend; can anyone give me some headsup with what to keep an eye out for when having alook at the bike?

I have a friend who comes with me (IGS) who test rides the bike to make sure it rides/brakes ok. i was just wondering if there is anything else to look at?

The reason i ask this is the bike is located in rockinham which is a huge travel for me and if i like this bike i want to buy it on the spot rather than waiting another week to go down and pick it up.

Also if there is anyone in Rockinham which is mechanically minded and wouldn't mind tagging along with me and igs on Saturday to check the bike out could you please drop me a pm

thanks Michael

g0zer · 23-07-2008, 10:28 AM

warped front brake rotors = shudder when braking

thro · 23-07-2008, 11:49 AM

General maintenance...

- chain lube on chain
- chain correct tightness
- corrosion?
- lights work properly
- starts and idles properly
- crash damage
- general cleanliness

Whilst that won't give you the complete picture, it will at least give you a rough idea of whether the owner gives a shit.

Morgs · 23-07-2008, 12:11 PM

1) Make sure it is an RR, not an R. There are a couple of threads around on how to tell the difference, but single front disk on R, twin on RR is one difference, and a different shaped swingarm is another.

2) Rethink your attitude. Don't be desperate to have the bike. It comes across in this post that you have already bought the bike. Be prepared to walk away if there is any doubt that this bike is not worth the money. (Bikes are not selling well at this time of year anyway).

3) If you really have no idea on bike mechanicals, pay to get it checked by a proper motorcycle mechanic. If this was a year old bike you might be ok to get away with it, but on a bike that is as old as an RR, you really need to have it checked properly.

4) REVS check, and make sure all the paperwork is in order.

vbroom · 23-07-2008, 12:16 PM

just a minor thing, but open the ducktail compartment and see if the plastic hounsing that surrounds the brake light has all the plastic tabs in place and not snapped off. they break easily.

i'l also steer away from the ones with the chrome RR schemes...sometimes they paint up single R's to look like double R's but i'm sure igs should be able to tell if its an R or RR.

also check the choke and make sure it works properly....and have a general look round the engine and under near the sump for oil stains or leaks.

the biggest thing you'll have to look out for is just to watch your ass incase igs rapes it. he loves it. your ass that is. or any man's ass infact.

semi · 23-07-2008, 12:23 PM

yeah, check the fairings for general fit. Its probably been dropped, and even if its been fixed, there will be signs on the bike, like fairings that dont sit quite right.

check that nothing leaks, and that the gearbox and clutch work ok- see if its easy/hard to find neutral from 1st, that'll give you a little idea. If you pull the choke in while the bike is running, the bike should die. Listen to the enging for any bad noises

Revelations · 23-07-2008, 12:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vbroom

just a minor thing, but open the ducktail compartment and see if the plastic hounsing that surrounds the brake light has all the plastic tabs in place and not snapped off. they break easily.

i'l also steer away from the ones with the chrome RR schemes...sometimes they paint up single R's to look like double R's but i'm sure igs should be able to tell if its an R or RR.

also check the choke and make sure it works properly....and have a general look round the engine and under near the sump for oil stains or leaks.

the biggest thing you'll have to look out for is just to watch your ass incase igs rapes it. he loves it. your ass that is. or any man's ass infact.

the only thing wrong with mine is the above in bold...where would i go to get this fixed or is it not worth the money? fairings/clips etc to fix scare me, they are usually very pricey

Michael · 23-07-2008, 12:49 PM

thanks for the tips everyone

i would ideally love to have someone check over the bike mechanically, but i'm not sure where to look for a mobile mechanic in rockinham which is good, is there any psb members up that way that may be able to help me?

Revelations · 23-07-2008, 12:53 PM

theres a couple of nice ones on here for sale, are you not a fan of the tri-colour?

Michael · 23-07-2008, 12:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Revelations

theres a couple of nice ones on here for sale, are you not a fan of the tri-colour?

not really, also looking for j-spec over aus-spec

semi · 23-07-2008, 01:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Revelations

the only thing wrong with mine is the above in bold...where would i go to get this fixed or is it not worth the money? fairings/clips etc to fix scare me, they are usually very pricey

i wouldnt bother mate

Revelations · 23-07-2008, 01:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by semi

i wouldnt bother mate

hence i never have to date...aparently they are clipped in underneath somehow still - but yeah. Just an annoyance is all.

semi · 23-07-2008, 01:13 PM

yeh, they clip into the little tail piece

xanthian · 23-07-2008, 01:35 PM

I have the same snapped tabs on my rear section; two metal clips holding it together instead.

I did for a quick second think about perhaps supergluing them back on, or perhaps gluing the tabs to a thin metal plate and screwing it to the metal plate instead, but clearly these are stress fractures, and it's better that the thin tabs which snapped now allow the rest of the fairing to remain intact as opposed to reinforcing this point, only to cause something else to show these signs of stress.

The only side-effect I see is that my tail section is marginally looser and the gaps between the pieces are larger as a direct result. I think it's more a point of "check this to work out if the fairings have recently been replaced" rather than "fix it because it's super-essential".

The only thing I can directly recommend is to have the thing ridden in slow control. My rear brake disc is crooked, and this is instantly apparent when trailing it in slow control (it makes a noise every metre or so). The more serious issue is that if I even touch the rear brake in the wet, I get a rear wheel lockup.

semi · 23-07-2008, 01:49 PM

fix that
please.

xanthian · 23-07-2008, 02:39 PM

Or I could like -- y'know -- keep it broken and use it as a learning experience. As long as I step off the brake altogether any time I let the clutch in to change down, it's not an issue.

That, and if it wasn't for all the sliding I'd done while stopping, some of my powering out of roundabouts in the wet recently would have had me in trouble.

It's called "character building".

Revelations · 23-07-2008, 07:08 PM

noticed my front wheel does a lil squeek about every meter when going slow (walking pace). Nothing under braking, so i assume its nothing major. Discs look good.

Farkass · 23-07-2008, 07:37 PM

what alot of people have said in here is true. the differences between R and RR ... i would check chain + sprockets all the suaull liquid levels switch block function. multimeter on battery rectifier/regulator is also good as i have been told by the guys at ktec that the regulators on the CBR's go fairly commonly.

IGS · 23-07-2008, 10:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vbroom

the biggest thing you'll have to look out for is just to watch your ass incase igs rapes it. he loves it. your ass that is. or any man's ass infact.

Way to blow my cover

Crootie · 23-07-2008, 10:50 PM

when are you planning on going there... i live in baldivis and can come and have a look at it with ya's.... not a mechanic but i know what too look out for.