2001 R6 to a track bike

[Jay D]

OK guys, just bought myself a 2001 R6 (still registered) for a track bike only as I don't want to bin my new CBR1000. I'm aware that I will have to do some mods to it prior to getting it out on the track in April.
For the guys/gals that have completed or in the process transforming a registered bike to a track bike, I'm after some words of wisdom on what would be the priorities (brakes, braided lines etc)
I don't have a lot of knowledge in this area so your recommendations would be greatly appreciated.
Oh, at the moment my budget is around $1500.
Thanks

[ninjaa]

Brakes & suspension
Depending how yours are ATM, could just get them revalved & set up for you by MM, of course
Any reason you didn't get a fully setup tracky for starters? No offence intended whatsoever, just interested
Congrats on the purchase, I saw ya at racecraft last Sunday. Are you riding Champions this Sunday?

[Jay D]

No offence taken Ninjaa, I thought I would get asked that question.
I picked up the bike pretty cheap (well I hope I did), and this is just a little project I want to compete. Get to know the bike so to speak.
You should of gave me a shout on Sunday mate. No ride this Sunday. I was unaware and I didn't know if I was going to have this bike before hand.
Who's MM?
ThanKs Ninj

[jaseyjase]

MM= martymoose, psb member, wizard with suspension. He'll have ya sorted in no time, hell of a nice guy too.

Strip everything you dont need, ie lights etc, buy some second hand race glass, and away you go. Then slowly buy what you need as you need it, ie rearsets, exhaust etc

[ninjaa]

Yeah no worries dude, understand that. If I had the money, i'd do it the same way
I was gonna when I saw the sticker but we hadn't had lunch yet so got outta there 2.30ish
Exactly what Jase said, all you need to do is post pics of how the bike is now & I look forward to the progress
Goodluck

[Jay D]

Thanks JJ, I'll look him up and see if he is willing.
I was meant to be going for a dive down at Rocky Foreshore tomorrow, however, that may have to be put off so I can get stuck into this.
Thanks

[Jay D]

Yeah no worries dude, understand that. If I had the money, i'd do it the same way
I was gonna when I saw the sticker but we hadn't had lunch yet so got outta there 2.30ish
Exactly what Jase said, all you need to do is post pics of how the bike is now & I look forward to the progress
Goodluck

Yeah, we headed back out on the track to see you guys perform. What lines to take, braking etc. great little exercise. You guys/gals made it look so easy. Didn't have a lot of time for lunch.
I'll book in for a Trakayz in April (unfortunately I'm on a roster). Bike should be ready by then.

[Svettens]

mmm... ok, no dive tomorrow night. Well if I'd just bought another bike, I'd be doing the same. So how about either next Mon or Wed night (around footy trg)??

[Jay D]

OK, so all the fairings, lights, indicators, rear pegs and exhaust is off.
Trying to get some stands to take the wheels off and get them taken back and painted.

Cost so far -
Bike (Shhh)
Tyres (BT003 F&R) = $410 (delivered)
GP Shorty Exhaust Slip-on = $86 (delivered) This allowed me to remove the pillon pegs etc.

Yet to purcahse
Front Braided Brake Line
New Brake Pads
Race Glass
Steering Dampner (probably after April)
A good service including checking out the clutch.

Any recommendations on products, services please let me know (especially if they are close by to Port Kennedy)

Once my camera has been recharged, I'll get some progress pics up.

[rgvlee]

what is the road gear like? are you thinking of moving it on?

I have a full set of 99-02 race glass that I may let go.

[Jay D]

what is the road gear like? are you thinking of moving it on?

I have a full set of 99-02 race glass that I may let go.

Mate, you are more than welcome to come and inspect. Road gear is in fair to good repair.

Let me know.

[2wheels]

Jay, buy some fork internals from Uk ( race products, wood racing, R+C racing i think they're called, ebay etc ), at this early stage you can get away with basic susp changes. A shock from the likes of maxton can be picked up cheap, as looking at usa sites ( tonnes of units going cheap ), brake lines are a must, along with HH track/ fast road pads ( full on race can be a pain to get heat into while you're learning ), rearsets will be next on list ( cheap from jap web sites ), go basic for now ( you'll crash and just need abit of clearanace for now rather than adjustablity ). Race glass is next ( 2nd hand is better than new freshly paint rep fairings, you want to be thinking about bike control rather than the cost of replacement trick fairings, while brakin into turn 1 ).Clip ons will be lighter and more adjustable than std ones. cover speedo ( thinking about what kph you're doing will only slow you ). Remove anything thats not used ( indy switch, stand etc ), move any fuse holders, relays that are behind the fairing inboard of frame/ sub frame etc, if you can sell anything thats not going to be used ( street lights, fairings ) do so to get max money back ( never know it may pay for a trick ohlins shock !). Look out for racers selling used tyres, they're cheap and have loads of life in them ( you're chasing seconds at mo not tenths ). sprockets will need changing ( ask in here, some one will know sizing for barbs, collie ). Engine is a very distance last ( apart from top quality oil etc ), until you can beat rossi / casey on same bike around the only track around here, it will be quick enough for now. Ride it as much as poss, nothing improves the feel better than miles under the belt. Or drop at my house while you're away and i'll do the spannering for you. Tony

[Jay D]

Jay, buy some fork internals from Uk ( race products, wood racing, R+C racing i think they're called, ebay etc ), at this early stage you can get away with basic susp changes. A shock from the likes of maxton can be picked up cheap, as looking at usa sites ( tonnes of units going cheap ), brake lines are a must, along with HH track/ fast road pads ( full on race can be a pain to get heat into while you're learning ), rearsets will be next on list ( cheap from jap web sites ), go basic for now ( you'll crash and just need abit of clearanace for now rather than adjustablity ). Race glass is next ( 2nd hand is better than new freshly paint rep fairings, you want to be thinking about bike control rather than the cost of replacement trick fairings, while brakin into turn 1 ).Clip ons will be lighter and more adjustable than std ones. cover speedo ( thinking about what kph you're doing will only slow you ). Remove anything thats not used ( indy switch, stand etc ), move any fuse holders, relays that are behind the fairing inboard of frame/ sub frame etc, if you can sell anything thats not going to be used ( street lights, fairings ) do so to get max money back ( never know it may pay for a trick ohlins shock !). Look out for racers selling used tyres, they're cheap and have loads of life in them ( you're chasing seconds at mo not tenths ). sprockets will need changing ( ask in here, some one will know sizing for barbs, collie ). Engine is a very distance last ( apart from top quality oil etc ), until you can beat rossi / casey on same bike around the only track around here, it will be quick enough for now. Ride it as much as poss, nothing improves the feel better than miles under the belt. Or drop at my house while you're away and i'll do the spannering for you. Tony

Tried to PM Tony. You'll have to clear your inbox mate.

[2wheels]

Just looked at pics, how bad was the crash it was in ? ( fairings missing stickers, exhaust f##ked, polished frame spa, etc ), while we are thinking about that, get some engine protectors ( buy or make ). check under fairigs for damage / casings cracked ( better to sort now than at track ), In their day it was a quick turning bike but things have changed and moved on, if memory serve's std susp will need the forks dropping 5 mm and i can't remember if the shock has height adjust or not ( fear not, remove mount bolt and place washer over thread ) but will need between 5-8mm added, this will speed up turn in at the loss of a bit of stability. Eh more will come too me, contact Dan for my number if you get stuck / need beer to be drunk while you wonder where it all ends, lol

[2wheels]

sorry about that, now empty'd....

[Jay D]

Thanks for the info Tony and I would love to take you up on your offer.

Played around a little today.

Removed the rear wheel, only to find out that the rear sprocket has been quite loose. So a replacement will be sought. I'll purchase the set (new chain, front and rear sprocket). In saying that, as Tony has said if there is a specific gearing to suit Barbs, let me know and I'll purchase. The rear wheel will be stripped back and 2 Pac'd tomorrow.
The rear disc brake is knackered and will need replacing, along with the pads. Gave the brake housing a wee clean (something I'll be doing a lot of), came up nice.
The road fairings, main and rear lights are all in good nic. So I might be putting them up in the FS section later on.

[Jay D]

Just looked at pics, how bad was the crash it was in ? ( fairings missing stickers, exhaust f##ked, polished frame spa, etc ), while we are thinking about that, get some engine protectors ( buy or make ). check under fairigs for damage / casings cracked ( better to sort now than at track ), In their day it was a quick turning bike but things have changed and moved on, if memory serve's std susp will need the forks dropping 5 mm and i can't remember if the shock has height adjust or not ( fear not, remove mount bolt and place washer over thread ) but will need between 5-8mm added, this will speed up turn in at the loss of a bit of stability. Eh more will come too me, contact Dan for my number if you get stuck / need beer to be drunk while you wonder where it all ends, lol

Just ran the dive torch over the frame etc and to tell you the truth, it looks very clean and straight. No cracks on the main or sub frame or scratches.
It has been dropped on both sides, however, it does look like he was stationary or it was at low speed. Small scraches on the bar ends, mirrors and lever's. Small grind on the engine cover bolt and that's it, Engine cover/casings are good. I'm sure the fairing isn't original. The exhaust was, yeah pretty trashed, but that's gone and now awaiting the shorty GP Slip-on.

Oh well, let the learning begin

[Svettens]

A great start Jay with plenty of good advice on tap (reliving your track days Tony...).

Good luck with the project mate!!

[2wheels]

Nothing beats working on bikes of all types mate, learnin will start with big box in corner that we will weigh ( great moment when you see what weight has come off a road bike ), talk about paint jobs you don't need and other tracks you wish were here....I'll call a mate about sprocket sizes ( he had 1999 R6 race bike ). And yeah Dan, missing my tricked Nc30 the most as it goes.

[Jay D]

Not too much to add tonight, just awaiting my gear to arrive.
Took the rear wheel down to the local bike shop to remove the tyre before getting painted ($16.50 ). Pick it up tomorrow.
Hopefully get to borrow a front stand tomorrow so I can remove the front wheel and get that cleaned up and rubber replaced.
Gave the Swing arm and rear brake assembly a good clean . BTW, how good is Maquires Hot Rims

Additional items purchased,
Front and Rear Stands - $195 from our mates at Kaneg
Frame Sliders and swing arm spools - $52 (delivered)
Braided Front Brake Lines (HEL) - $145 (delivered)
Total including above to date - $888.50 ()

List
I'll look at replacing all wheel bearings and require a new Front Brake reservior. Mine has been badly sun damaged and will probably crack at turn 1.
New chain and front and rear sprocket, again not too sure on the teeth that will best suit Barbs.
Race Glass
Sort out Brakes (Priority 1)
Sort out suspension (Priority 2)
Replace ALL oils (suspension, brakes and engine).
And THEN, bloody leathers. Oh well I'll just blame it on my mid life crisis.