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About LinkBacksThey are copies of kn with the closed ends, I want to test them against uni filter foam for both restrictivness and the interference with double dipping phenomenom
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They are copies of kn with the closed ends, I want to test them against uni filter foam for both restrictivness and the interference with double dipping phenomenom
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I will practice my launching... I'm geared up now too btw and have cracked 190km/h
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Maybe you should let all of the UK 2T tuners, including one of the best rg500 tuners being Mark Dent, and the vast US snowmobile 2T tuners that they are wrong and should no longer tune with widebands. And while you are at it let innovate motorsports, makers of probably the best known wideband kits around, that their widebands are U/S on 2T.Originally Posted by Jamathi
I am keen to see the results g0zer, this was something that I wanted to do to my rgv but have had to concentrate on other bikes lately. The stoich reading you will be aiming for is lower than 4T to account for the oil in the exhaust. You are right in recessing it, that will help prolong the sensor, being on the top of the pipe will help also.
ive thought about that, do you have a fudge factor that can be used?
was wondering if i should bother figuring it out ive heard and read 12:1 is a safe tune and was just going to aim for that, since you mention it i will make the effort.
i wont bore you all with the chem but i think its safe to make some assumptions that will make estimating oxygen consumption by the oil at a stoichiometric burn a bit easier when you dont know the length of the carbon chains.
because the oil makes up a relatively tiny fraction of the total fuel load the calc doesnt need to be perfect to be useful. for the sake of 2T tuning we just need to know if the oil addition effect on burn is in the order of 0.1 a/f (so we can ignore it) or 1.0 a/f (in which case we should allow a fudge for it).
another thing that has occured to me is that the black soot that you find in 2T exhaust systems is due to in part to rich tunes but also because the oil is burning more slowly than the petrol. i suspect the oil is still producing CO in the pipe, so its conceivable the reading might read leaner than it actually is in the combustion dome- a little harder to estimate that one.
i think i will continue to tune the mains to find the WOT bog then come down- the reading i find at that point will still be my target air fuel baseline.
the needle can be tuned similarly. for me the focus of the air fuel reading is to explore the excessive lean out that WOTing the motor in the mid range seems to cause identified by the rilusi run.
Last edited by g0zer; 18-03-2010 at 04:45 PM.
It has been a while, but 11.8 seems to come straight to mind.
It was a fair bit less than 4T which I think the aim was for 12.4 to 12.7, but don't quote me on that.
The snowmobile guys are pretty forthcoming with their numbers, in the road bike world you need to ask directly.
I also remember there was a fair bit of talk about sensor positioning on the innovate forums, with input from innovate techs.
met a couple of guys who race 125 2 strokers at the collie track and they used o2 sensors welded into the spannies, i asked the question why? they said it makes it easier to tune without plug chops etc
i missed that!
i actually popped the headers off last weekend to inspect the pistons looking for damage after stress testing in 6th gear WFO to 190 on a 36C day. was the first time ive actually wrung this motor out in top gear since building it. that was with 270 main jets and powerjets blocked off.
there was no evidence of the kind of damage my last motor suffered, the edges of the pistons at the exhaust port are still nice and sharp and i fingered the piston crowns to feel around for any signs of erosion.. nice and smooth
there is a bit more in it as well i backed off once it hit 190 on the GPS so as not to over rev would have been about 9800rpm... ive no doubt it would have pulled through to 11,000rpm if i let it
not too sure what to do, might have to put some more thought into the gearing that goes into the 421cc motor unless i want to fit a 20t front sprocket which im not sure will even fit ... im already running the tallest rgv rear sprocket i can find
[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CtsKYaebroY]YouTube - LC1 innovate rz350 mikuni VM26 uni filter pod main jet 270 pilot jet 27[/ame]
blocking up the powerjets and going up in the main seems to be a marked improvement over the rilusi run
next run will be needle up a clip and 290 main jet
maintenance throttle at rpm < 6000 seems to be very lean, while maintenance throttle at higher rpm richens up perhaps i need a bigger pilot instead of raising the needle? will need to order some bigger pilot jets in.
Oh just stop fucking around with those mikuni's, put a set of 28mm pwk's on it with 138 main jets for a 350 or 145 mains when you go big bore and it will be happy
actually, watching the vid, those figures arent bad, you will always run leaner on a maint throttle but you never hold that for long on these things, detonation time is WOT and you are rich then, so possibly a main jet smaller and pick the needle up 1 clip to make it safe mid range, but i wouldnt be to unhappy with the figures you are showing now. Remember when it gets colder, if you have it right now it will be to lean in winter.
Last edited by Sean'o; 20-03-2010 at 09:44 PM.
what throttle cable are you using for your PWK's sean?
ive kind of held off on sourcing PWK's since im worried i will need to also source angled inlets and throttle cables to get them to fit under the frames cross brace. its already a very tight fit with the standard mikunis and the PWK's sit higher dont they?
also do you think the way it leans out when just maintaining low speeds in high gears is actually a problem that i need to solve? or is it fine so long as it richens up when the motor is loaded and spinning hard?
if you look at the vid from 1 minute you will see just cruising at around 4000rpm unloaded a:f ranges from 15 to 17 to 1 but soon as you crack it, comes down to around 12.
that jibes with what ive noticed riding it, the temperature guage reads hotter at low rpm unloaded than it does at 10000rpm WOT in 5th gear.
Last edited by g0zer; 20-03-2010 at 09:48 PM.
yeah they do sit higher, its a very tight fit, i used the cables that came with the pwk's, had them modified at some place in belmont so they would fit the throttle housing, they do go in there without causing problems, you just have to be a little careful when putting the tops on the carbs but no, you dont need to get angled inlets with the 28's may need to if you went to 34's as they are a different body.
If you use cable adusters out of rgv carbs, drill them out a little, so the cable has free movement in it, they will spin or you can turn them so nothing fouls, never had a stuck throttle yet.
yeah i was going to lift up the needle and maybe close up the pilot screw a bit
i was thinking of going from 270 main to either 280 or 290, i would like to see it a bit richer up top for variations in temperature if i can get away without too much plug fouling or bogging
Needs a bit more WOT in the vid but looks like you are heading into the 11's. A strong engine will push through the rich stuff so leave the main there, try richening the midrange on the needle, then if that comes down a bit, personally i would lean out the top end, but the needle clip may be enough to help with that anyway.
note emulsion tube is p8 and needle Y151
previous run was needle c4
tried it with c5 and 0.5 turns out on air screw, bad needle bog very bad 6k stumble then takes off like a scalded cat (edit: additional note idles without excessive temperature rise)
bogging wasnt so bad with 1.5 turns out on air screw, 6k stumble still quite bad- but now too lean at idle (edit: temperature rising idling at lights)
air fuel was a little rich on maintenance throttle sitting around 12, which is what i wanted... but engine very unhappy
its my feeling that with the needle raised that high, there is not enough air entering the bypass to nebulise the petrol in the emulsion tube
one of those half position clips would probably sort it nicely, but i dont have one so im going to drop back to c4 and richen the air screw
^added so i can find the stem bearings again
Last edited by g0zer; 05-05-2010 at 10:14 AM.
just ordered a new dynatek ignition coil for my rz
Dynatek Ignition Coil Kit Yamaha Banshee DCK7-4 CDI: eBay Motors (item 120579115701 end time Jul-04-10 11:08:07 PDT)
the bike has been difficult to start for a while and rapidly fouling plugs which in the past has been my tune although i had thought i had the tune under control these days- anyway wasted a lot of time messing unnecessarily with carbs
pretty much broke down on the way to the 2T ride meet point last weekend and barely made it home and started troubleshooting again!
although i could see the plugs sparking when i pulled them and kicked the bike over, i was suspicious that it was weak spark so went through the motions of testing stator and coils and found the main ignition coil was open circuit
pulled the HT leads off it, and found they were open circuit and the HT outputs of the coil also open circuit. further testing of the HT leads by jamming the multimeter probe about 30mm up the leads managed to record 27kOhm from one of leads while the other was still open circuit.
since the coil prongs that spike the HT leads are only 10mm in length, both HT leads must have been arcing internally weakening spark and burning the lead internals up further and further up the leads. the bike basically became harder and harder to start and ran progressively worse until the coil itself also started to pack it in and the bike would barely run at all.
anyways, just thought i would mention it as people might want to fit new HT leads to their similarly aged rz coils to avoid similar problems.
this is after about 6 tanks^ am thinking it could be just a little richer?
denso w24 (same as ngk 8)
How did you chop it Dave? It won't mean a lot if those plugs have done a bit of work. Heat range looks safe....... if you were riding it like this all the time I would say a touch leaner too ( needle wise ), can't say anything about the main...... can't see the bottom of the insulator.Ignition timing looks a weeny bit on the advanced side...... if you leaned off a tad, might pay to back off the static 2 degrees at the same time for safety. Doesn't look too far off the mark though, in general........ pretty boring without any mushroom clouds.
Last edited by GD Engineering (Gavin); 10-07-2010 at 12:16 PM.
first couple of tanks were just commuting and the plugs were very light with just a light and dry tan colour, then high rpm high gear open road for the last 4 tanks gave them that final colour with that bit of blackening on the exhaust side
needle is c4 atm, will try it at c5. i wanted to open the main just a bit to check for a difference in the water temp when loaded, see if i can get it to run a bit cooler.
the tip of the electrode on the RHS is noticably crisped white where the LHS isnt? umm if the RHS ignition coil is firing a bit sooner than the left.. ?
getting close to time to put the 392 together
might even bog up that ding in the tank and give the bike a new lick of paint, seems a shame to bolt those babys up to the bike the way its looking.
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