Greggo's MC21 Rebirth

[greggo]

So this week the evenings are full of me working over the wiring loom. Stripping out everything that doesn't need to be there.

Play ended this evening with a bag full of wires I don't need, and no +ve to the tacho.

Tomorrow I will sort the Tach power and check for spark. Then the loom will sit until the whole bike is back together before it gets wrapped back up.

[greggo]

Well the facker has me absolutely beaten.

This is the loom cut down (modified sections are circled):


I cut away all the wrapping, and followed all the empty plugs to their sources, then cut away the wires.

Plugged everything in;
RC servo
TPS
Solenoids
Pick ups
Tacho
Coils
Temp sender...

PLugged in battery and nothing. Read up on the forums, crank the RC servo to 'high', switch the bike on and nothing.

Attach a spark plug to the coils and turn the engine over and 'nothing'. Lots and lots of nothing.

In sheer desperation after scratching my head, reading and rereading the wiring diagram, testing and retesting wires I tried the spare completely unmolested loom.
Wired up the side stand switch
Wired up the ignition
Attached the kill switch and everything else above and
More facking nothing. Swapped out all the spare components (solenoids, RC servo) and still nothing.

So I am either missing something having converted the bike to total loss, or my PGM3 is fscked. Someone please tell me I am missing something.

I've lost all motiviation. Fscking arsehole thing.

What voltage should the battery give when fully charged? Is it 12.8+ (like other bigger batteries?)

Mine gives 12.2 and I'm wondering if there just isn't enough amperage to run anything, even though the trickle charger says it's charged?

[greggo]

So I think this is case closed?

It looks like something has gone inside the CDi. Looks like the insultation has melted and the inside of the plastic cover looks like something has sprayed it.





Awesome.

Can't wait to see what this feckin bike does next.

[greggo]

unfscking believable.

Bought a rust/sealer kit to redo the inside of the tank. Not a difficult job. Until the fscking tank fell off the bench denting it, cracking and scratching the FRESH fscking paint job.

I am starting to develop a deep seated hatred for this bike.

At this rate it is going to end in a bonfire.

[Loud]

Jeeeeesus mate, you have about as much luck with yours as I've had with mine over the years.

Sucks about the CDI, according to the NSR forum that isn't uncommon. A spare shouldn't be too hard to come by? Otherwise there's a bit of a legend on here called Darkfibre who maaaay be able to repair it - he'd be the best bet if it is at all possible.

As for the tank... f*ck. But you did a pretty great job on it originally and I'm sure you can fix it again.

Hang in there - I took my 2-stroke for it's first proper ride the other night and all the hard times slipped away.

[EEKNOWS]

I've never seen anyone run the nsr without them?

TBH I don't even know what it does!

Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk

Doesn't mean you have to follow along. Did lots of tests with a DT200 and the only thing a boost bottle did was extend fuel range.

Bad luck with the tank, that sucks.

[greggo]

Offered up the seat unit and tank, required a bit of trimming of the edges with the dremel to get them both to fit snugly together and allow the tank to bolt down. Looks nice though, even if the tank is dented.

Dismantled the carbs. What a frign mess. I've never seen so much green gunge. No way was this bike running. Fortunately the HRC kit will replace most of the jets and crap. But I've ordered new float valves all the same. Took a fair bit of cleaning and a whole can of carb cleaner.

Took off the boost bottles, blanked off the holes, based on advice from someone else.

Photos laters.

[greggo]

And carbs. Never have I seen carbs this filthy



Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk

[greggo]

So I've been busing myself with not much.

Scored some warmers and two rear stands off of ebay (2 rear because I have two bikes, and I now need two front...)

I have remounted the radiator and all the hoses, and put the clutch cover back on (sick of waiting for that one elusive clutch plate to arrive - to replace the 'shorty' plate seeing as some muppet has already removed the judder spring). remounted the clutch cable, RC servoe, lubed and cleaned all cables along the way. I will leave the RC adjustment for when I have working electrickery.

Had some issues getting the Rad hoses to mount, bought a length of flexible hose pre bent to 90 degrees, then realised I had the top hose on the wrong way round.

Ahhh. oops.

Ive now set up the HRC kit on the carbs, but i'm still waiting for the float needles to arrive to seal up the carbs.

I have jetted according to the HRC manual for an MC21 (SS) whatever SS is...
Blanked PJ's
J2BB needle on the 4th clip
180 Rear/185 front Mains
#40 Slow jet

Do you still need these needle shrouds with the HRC kit?

(ignore my finger it's not pointing at anything...

Based on my set up and bolt ins in this thread I would welcome any feedback from experienced builders as to whether I should go richer or leaner right from the bat. The last thing I want is a seizure after all this effort.

The bike is really not far off complete. Just waiting for powder coating (finished next week), suspension (should be the week after) and then refit/mount all the fairings.

The last big job is rebuilding the front forks. But I'm building those to HRC specs using the SE internals.

The only real job I can do over the weekend is rebuild the front brakes.

[Ruff1]

great work brother. awesome job documenting the build too.

[EEKNOWS]

I recommend you get a EGT set up then you know if your rich or lean at an instant rather than guessing. Always start rich and work your way down.

[greggo]

Some more action on the build.

I stripped and rebuilt the front brake master cylinder. I had bought a rebuild kit from Wemoto, but the pistons are completely different sizes. So either Wemoto sent the wrong part (not the first time) or My Japan NSR has fitted a non NSR master cylinder (equally possible). Luckily for me the brakes are one of the parts on this bike well looked after and it could be rebuilt with the existing parts. Unbelievably brakes once bled up. Make my old NC29 race bike look like a nancy bike.

Also got my powder coating back, so all the brackets and things are home for me to test fit the fairings...I think I may have erred in my colour choice for the fork bottoms.



Anyways, I put the fairing brackets on and mounted up the belly pan. first problem, belly pan doesn't sit back far enough for the rear mounting holes to line up:


After fitting the upper fairing, which took a bit of persuading, I realised in order to place the belly pan properly I needed to fit the chambers. So fit them I did:


They look damned nice. With the belly pan and upper cowl fitted it looks like the standard bracket for the front mastercylinder is in an awful location and will foul the screen:


So with everything fitted up and lots of peering through holes and gaps it appears that there are a number of things needed to make the belly pan position correctly. However once positioned correctly it makes the upper cowl an arse to fit and that will need some tweaking as well - particularly the screen brace. This is all part of the fun of fitting race glass...

So I need to redrill the front cylinder plug cap hole, that is in completely the wrong place. The whole edge around the radiator needs to be trimmed and the radiator itself needs to be tweaked further backwards. The bottom bracket for the rad is missing so I will have to make something up - im guessing a couple of alloy strips, attached where the rad cover screws on at the bottom rear should do the trick. A bit of drilling and more tweaking should see it in the right spot.



But I think you will agree, it's starting to look like a bike!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!



HRC loom, suspension parts, and float valves are still on the way...but with a good week and a kind postman I could be finished at the end of next week. Maybe.

[96]

Note: fit fairings, and then paint.

Ps, I might have missed somewhere, but does it run yet?

[greggo]

Yes, yes, I know. Normally you fit first then paint. But I had the fairings months before the bike and nothing to do. It was that or start killing people.

Doesn't run yet, no electrics. They are still on their way. No float valves for the carbs, they are still on their way, no 2 stroke oil, haven't bought any yet....

Here's a nice new powder coated wheel with new bearings. For new bearings they seem awfully stiff. But they are sealed so there is really nowt I can do about it. Some of the powder coating is average, it was done by a friends business so we shall exchange some words. But I'm off to have tyres fitted at the weekend - Dunlop GP Alphas in the standard sizes.

In the end all I had to do to get the fairings to fit right was make a new hole for the plug cap. I also had to trim a little around the chamber on the RHS.



I also had to elongate one of the holes in the petrol tank is it was about 3mm offset. But with a bit of persuasion everything now bolts on. All I need to do now is tighten up the fairing mounts in their current positions. (I still haven't torqued the engine bolts, so I think I will do that on Sunday too).

Once I had that done I couldn't resist lining things up for a look see:




Sharp eyed people will notice that I didn't send the tacho mount for powder coating, this was because I had planned to weld a small platform to it to provide a rigid mount for an on bike camera. But now that it is all together, it doesn't fit how I expected. So instead I will just tidy it up for painting and find another way to mount a camera.

Going through the bag of bolts that came with the bike it doesn't appear that I have a complete set of caliper bolts. That is very annoying.

Currently being tracked in the post:
Another frigging petrol tank (I won't paint until I am painting my other bike)
Clip ons
Tyga order (HRC base gaskets, fuel filter, rear hugger, and alloy upper triple clamp - I just couldn't face the standard Honda item...)
Float valves and mixing jug
HRC loom and replacement PGM.
Simoncelli 'RIP Super Sic' stickers.

Next week will be like Christmas.

[edmands_3]

For the jetting, start rich and then do plug chops to bring it down to the correct jetting.

As for clutch plate anti judder stuff it seems to be a common mod on quite a few bikes. With modded RGVs for example you remove the anti judder and replace it with a couple of steels and a fibre for extra friction area. I did it on mine and it doesn't really feel any different to a normal clutch (although I didn't ride it back to back).

[g0zer]

beautiful looking bike, should keep you motivated to finish it.

can you get aftermarket CDI's for these like a zeeltronic?

[96]

That's one long 2T stinger!!! It's past the tail FFS. Should look the goods when they both bolt up.

[greggo]

Over the weekend I took my busted up hung over ass to the bike shop (on the other side of town, no convenience for me!) to get tyres and 90 degree valves fitted. Ended up with Dunlop alphas. It's the first time i'ver had someone not put weight on a wheel. Reckons he could find no heavy spots. And the rear rim has only the tiniest amount too.

New wheel bearings seem awfully stiff to me, is that normal? Can't say I've ever paid attention before.

The post man was good today.

I got my Tyga order, Loom and spare petrol tank.

So tonight I removed all the fairings and took the chambers off.

Now, the only down side of this PGM is someone having ground off the mounting lugs:


So I took a bit of Ally and came up with this:


I wanted to use the existing mounts as much as possible. The foam keeps the PGM reasonably isolated but also well captivated especially once I loop a zip tie over it. Plus I can revert to the standard Tyga mount in future.

The only PITA is the HRC box, which just won't sit tidily anywhere.
I spent a bit of time routing the loom, trying to work out the best fit.

I settled for routing it down the centre of the rear subframe, the down to the LHS frame rail where it divides to go across to the TPS/Solenoid and Coils, whilst everything else goes forward.

I didn't attach the battery yet and check there was power. I'm a bit gun shy and will look again at everything tomorrow night. Then I might set up the RC valves and zip tie everything into place.

Next job for this evening was to mount the Tyga hugger. Nice looking finish on it. Pretty easy to fit, popped straight on and only needed a couple of additional holes, one to zip tie over the brake line, and one just for peace of mind on the other side.



final job was to de-rust/scale the tacho mount and spray it black.

[Chipperrrrr]

Wikid build up buddy, just a quick question, were did you source your secondhand pgm III from?? As i need a new pgm III and wiring loom, cheers buddy

[greggo]

Two places you can look. One is the nsrworld forums, nsr only and a good knowledge base.

The other is through importmonster.com.au direct from the yahoo auctions.

Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk