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04-07-2008, 09:15 PM
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#61 (permalink)
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CBR 900RR, ZXR 750
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: kwinana, k-town, AKA redneck county
Posts: 3,342
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but those stacks have to go inside the airbox ?
this airbox has fixed velocity stack inside it - and the box bolts to the carbs.. it's a really weird arrangement..
If you see those "4" bolts sitting on the bottom r/h side of the carbies, they're the holding bolts - that go inside the sealed airbox - that you have to use a long handled socket to get at...
It was a total bitch to get them off, and i'm not too keen on putting it back on again... there's a fair whack of space under the tank ( the box is massive ) so I might be able to get small pods put on.. then just check them super regularly for dirt..
I'd love to see these carbs, if you've got some in your shed tho !
Racing carbs ftmfw !
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No Sentry, No Entry..
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04-07-2008, 09:17 PM
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#62 (permalink)
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Sooky FurdeenFordey
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Port Kennedy
Posts: 533
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Looking at that pic I've got some CVK's of a ZZR1100 that will bolt straight on........
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04-07-2008, 09:18 PM
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#63 (permalink)
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Sooky FurdeenFordey
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Port Kennedy
Posts: 533
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40 mm I believe too, once again could be too big for the 750
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04-07-2008, 09:29 PM
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#64 (permalink)
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CBR 900RR, ZXR 750
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: kwinana, k-town, AKA redneck county
Posts: 3,342
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It'll either overfuel and die in the arse - or throw me like a wild bull..
Excellent !
How do you come past a spare set of carbies just laying around, anyhow ? a bike you used to have ?
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04-07-2008, 09:31 PM
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#65 (permalink)
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Sooky FurdeenFordey
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Port Kennedy
Posts: 533
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I'll dig them out over the weekend and send you a PM once I locate them.
Another thought is you could use 39mm CVK's of an old ZX10....just a thought
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04-07-2008, 09:37 PM
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#66 (permalink)
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CBR 900RR, ZXR 750
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: kwinana, k-town, AKA redneck county
Posts: 3,342
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Being a noobie to all things carby and old engines.. Is it possible to substitute the carbies on the ZXR for something more modern, or are they specifically on there for a reason ? ( i.e. best match for that type of engine, give awesome performance etc..)
I cant find a seal and rebuild kit for them, is it worth working them and tuning them up - or just try and get new ones ?
I'm to believe they're the originals, and the bike just went around the clock..
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04-07-2008, 09:48 PM
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#67 (permalink)
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Sooky FurdeenFordey
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Port Kennedy
Posts: 533
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You can substitue them for something more modern, but you will probably find that they are the same type of carb ie the keihin CVK, but they willl be sized and jetted to suit a particular motor.
Best to look at the size and the spacing, then jet to suit your application. Thats if you want to go bigger.
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05-07-2008, 06:49 PM
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#68 (permalink)
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CBR 900RR, ZXR 750
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: kwinana, k-town, AKA redneck county
Posts: 3,342
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phase 2 begins, removing the exhaust.. but to do that.. you gotta remove the radiator, oil cooler and associated pipes... fittings and stuff..
L/H ( clutch side ) radiator top bolt
what an odd bolt...
Now, on to the R/H ( brake side ) radiator bolts...
Bolt out...
Here's the wires to the thermo for the radiator.. on the L/H ( clutch side ) coloured blue.. ( photo for reference )

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05-07-2008, 06:52 PM
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#69 (permalink)
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CBR 900RR, ZXR 750
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: kwinana, k-town, AKA redneck county
Posts: 3,342
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Here's the wires off the thermo
Ok, didn't get any pics of removal of the actual radiator ( takes both hands to pull it out - but it involves removing the horn - and pulling it forwards and out..
leaves a big hole, like this..
Stainless pipes, nice !
Filthy... and note the oil cooler below.. that's gonna pose a problem...
Here's the radiator...
Starting to remove the split flanges around the pipes..
a little superficial what would appear to be corrosion.. but it was like a powder, and just rubbed right off with the touch of a finger..
Flanges off cylinder 1 and 2..
And here's the bolt holding on the oil cooler.. just 1 lonesome bolt..

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05-07-2008, 06:57 PM
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#70 (permalink)
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K6 GSXR750
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: freo
Posts: 7,555
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eukanuba
It was a total bitch to get them off, and i'm not too keen on putting it back on again... there's a fair whack of space under the tank ( the box is massive ) so I might be able to get small pods put on.. then just check them super regularly for dirt..
I'd love to see these carbs, if you've got some in your shed tho !
Racing carbs ftmfw !
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you realise that if you take the airbox out you'll lean out the motor and even if you rejet you'll lose a lot of bottom end?
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05-07-2008, 07:16 PM
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#71 (permalink)
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CBR 900RR, ZXR 750
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: kwinana, k-town, AKA redneck county
Posts: 3,342
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Mission completed !
Here's the pipe and can, complete..
Markings, on the base of the pipe.. note - there is no CAT on this pipe..
Can you help me identify the manufacturer/spec of this ?
Devil, Carbon Fibre can end..
Glistening in the last light of the afternoon..
dirty, but - they should come up clean enough with some scrubbing..
Now, to the removal of the engine.. this will be phase 3..
I've located the main bolts.. Front R/H Top ( Brake side )
Bottom, same side...
Here's the oil cooler, which sits seperate from the bike on a metal frame..
Also attached is the oil filter - never seen an oil filter that wasnt on a sump before - this threw me for a couple minutes looking at all the piping..
And with it all off, the block is looking much more accessible..
facing the front r/h side..
facing the front L/H side.. ( clutch )
Removed the footpegs..
footpeg off the other side..

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05-07-2008, 07:18 PM
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#72 (permalink)
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Fireblade
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Hammeredsley
Posts: 5,705
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KHI = Kawasaki Heavy Industries 
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05-07-2008, 07:19 PM
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#73 (permalink)
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Sooky FurdeenFordey
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Port Kennedy
Posts: 533
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KHI=Kawasaki Heavy Industries
Last edited by Racer; 05-07-2008 at 07:20 PM.
Reason: Beaten
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05-07-2008, 07:21 PM
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#74 (permalink)
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Fireblade
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Hammeredsley
Posts: 5,705
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Ben Wins!
The crowd goes wiiiiiiild!!!
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05-07-2008, 07:22 PM
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#75 (permalink)
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Sooky FurdeenFordey
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Port Kennedy
Posts: 533
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05-07-2008, 09:48 PM
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#76 (permalink)
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CBR 900RR, ZXR 750
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: kwinana, k-town, AKA redneck county
Posts: 3,342
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You may or may not have guessed it - but I'm stuck on how to get that engine out..
Got the left and right side of the frame bracket out...
Will have to disconnect the rest of that wiring loom first - but I'm sure there's something hidden that'll put the hold on my plans..
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05-07-2008, 10:03 PM
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#77 (permalink)
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Sooky FurdeenFordey
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Port Kennedy
Posts: 533
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Did you get the 2 bolts that go straight through the frame and engine at the back? once you remove these its still kind of wedged in there.
Theres also an earth lead at the back that bolts to the top of the gearbox.
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05-07-2008, 10:42 PM
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#78 (permalink)
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CBR 900RR, ZXR 750
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: kwinana, k-town, AKA redneck county
Posts: 3,342
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I did see what i thought might have been a retaining bolt hidden near the mono shock..
I was a bit worried that if i started loosening that, without maybe removing the chain - it could cause probs and throw the bike off the rear stand..
Do I need to put blocks under the motor before i do that ? or can i ease it down by hand ? I'd hate to have it crash onto the concrete and do more damage..
I cant imagine that I'd need to completely remove all the wiring loom to get the motor out - only for when the block goes off for soda blasting, and the frame goes off for polishing...
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06-07-2008, 05:45 AM
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#79 (permalink)
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K7 GSX1400 1981 750Z
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Near the motorplex
Posts: 2,685
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you should only have to unplug the wires. not take the loom off.....
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Glen_Morangie
some behemy 140-160kg lard ass
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Formerly Team_750Z 
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06-07-2008, 07:33 AM
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#80 (permalink)
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Sooky FurdeenFordey
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Port Kennedy
Posts: 533
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Put a trolly jack or blocks under it, you'll need to take the weight of the engine to remove the bolts at the rear.
If you haven't already done it remove your front sprocket and the chain too
You don't have to remove any of the rear suspension....
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