My ' ZXR 750 ' Project.. - Page 8

Eukanuba · 18-09-2008, 08:20 AM

got word back from neil that the shock's rooted, can be rebuilt - but should look around for another - gonna be atleast $400 to rebuild..

i rang wemoto in the UK, and they price in GBP - and with conversion at today's rate - gives a price of around $590 for an after market shock.. ( hagon )

the carbies are pretty much stuffed, and because of the type they are - they're not common.. and i'll need to source something from the uk or the usa ( if i cant get anything locally ) - findapart hasn't come back with any replacement carbies..

man, this project has just started to get a whole dark cloud over it...

lee · 18-09-2008, 09:34 AM

ZX9 MOTORlc

g0zer · 18-09-2008, 10:27 AM

$400 is not a bad price for a rear shock rebuild. Should be good as new when Neil has finished with it.

Eukanuba · 18-09-2008, 04:00 PM

I think i'm gonna agree with ya there lee.. a new motor it most likely is.. might be able to get a couple bucks for this one - sell it off for someone's dune buggy project - still runs sweet.. it's a shame..

Rather than go to 2 wheel wreckers ( I can only imagine what a motor and loom will cost from a wrecker.. if they charge like they did for a couple parts for my cbr250rr ) - does anyone here have a crashed bike with a decent engine ? ( around 600+ cc )

As for the shocker - yeah, i know $400 aint too bad - he said it could be around that price.. once it's rebuilt... but the problem i'm facing is, do i drop the cash, roll the dice and see if it's better than before ? ( if it's just the bag and stuff that needs replacing ) or, like neil said - if it's more shit on first appearance - has a bent rod etc, you'd already dropped the coin.. do you keep spending ? or should you have just bought a suitable aftermarket ( with 20 year newer technology ) like in the hagon monoshock..

I'd never heard of hagon before, but i've done a bit of reading - and have contacted them directly via email.. hopefully they'll get back to me shortly.. the suspension and rear setup with the linkages is my biggest concern at this point..

Eukanuba · 21-09-2008, 07:42 PM

ok, today's 20 minute effort ( out in the blistering cold, between bursts of intermittent rain )

- Remove the top yolk on the bars -

here's to start..

self explanatory, really...

size 6 allen key.. to release the top of the yolk..

same sized screw ( 6mm hex ) under the yolk to hold it on the uprights.. 1 on each side..

with a bit of gentle persuasion from underneath - I've managed to break the monkey like grip from the clamp..

the head of the beast...

got to get to that C nut that's underneath - have considered using a flat bladed screw driver and a hammer... but rather than molesting it and mashing it - I might just try and get a tool to take it off..

Eukanuba · 21-09-2008, 07:42 PM

damn, double post...

acko · 21-09-2008, 07:49 PM

double post dude

Marty MOOSE · 21-09-2008, 08:33 PM

come on Euc you just need to look

eBay Motors: 1998 NINJA ZX7 ZX 7 750 REAR SHOCK LINKAGE (item 180231826426 end time Oct-06-08 10:16:02 PDT)

eBay Motors: 96-03 KAWASAKI NINJA ZX7 R RR REAR SHOCK (item 220110017191 end time Sep-27-08 18:42:47 PDT)

eBay Motors: 1998 KAWASAKI ZX7R ZX7 750 NINJA REAR SHOCK 2003 1996 (item 110288010246 end time Oct-09-08 10:58:31 PDT)

This took 2 mins to find this stuff reckon its a better option than stuffing round with the early model set up. The piggy back shock will need to be fitted

battery box may need a little cutting but a far better system

druu · 21-09-2008, 09:09 PM

Screwdriver (big flatblade) and a hammer will be fine for the C nut, it shouldn't be very tight.

Eukanuba · 22-09-2008, 07:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Marty MOOSE

come on Euc you just need to look

eBay Motors: 1998 NINJA ZX7 ZX 7 750 REAR SHOCK LINKAGE (item 180231826426 end time Oct-06-08 10:16:02 PDT)

This took 2 mins to find this stuff reckon its a better option than stuffing round with the early model set up. The piggy back shock will need to be fitted

battery box may need a little cutting but a far better system

How the HELL did you find that ? AWESOME !

I wasnt really thinking outside the square about shock linkage replacement.. but it'll make life alot easier.. that's for sure..

Needless to say, It's been bought and paid for.. should be here shortly..

As for battery box butchery, I'm gonna love to see how the hell I'm gonna fit this monoshock

likefry · 22-09-2008, 07:42 PM

yeah i'd just use a punch and a hammer for that C nut. I did it with my headstem nut and its fine.

Just tap gently and it will move fine.

Billywhizz · 23-09-2008, 07:38 PM

Still watching mate

cant wait until we all catch up

Marty MOOSE · 23-09-2008, 08:46 PM

Hope it fits

Eukanuba · 24-09-2008, 01:09 AM

Cheers Billy, unfortunately - i'm working the weekend of the northam show - and I am 99% confident the bike wont be ready in time either way to show or even ride with the WASF boys..

Marty: your confidence is inspiring

I'm sure it'll fit - otherwise, there's nothing that cant be fixed with a hacksaw and a mig/tig

Marty MOOSE · 24-09-2008, 06:06 AM

LOL itsthe linkages that your bike really needs it was their accilies heal so to speak. Have you checked out Andies ZXR site ?? Lots of good info and its not just waffle.

Eukanuba · 24-09-2008, 10:17 AM

If that's the site with all the different models, and breakdowns in HP and benefits to each model - I did have a look - it would appear that by the time the H model came out ( which is what this linkage is off ) they had the rear nicely sorted out.. I'm actually quite excited about this minor upgrade.. namely that I can put a decent monoshock on there - and that it'll make the bike a whole lot safer in handling and ability..

I might be able to get something decent on there now, without having to worry about smashing my balls on the tank with every single bump ( it obviously was built for a race track, and not the freeway.. )

Marty MOOSE · 24-09-2008, 10:39 AM

The H1 H2 and J1-2 models all had the poor rear end. Was not til the L models came out that is was fixed. Interesting the M model the race version of the L had the horrible back end still.

matt · 25-09-2008, 12:37 PM

this is looking real nice!

Eukanuba · 28-09-2008, 10:02 PM

The bike's starting to come apart nicely now..

Got the headstem apart...

Bit of gentle tapping on that C-nut, after removing the keyed washer.. using a flat bladed screwdriver and a mallet..

Nut is off, time to remove that dust cap... find what horrors await us..

There's minimal pitting, if any - for a 20yo bike.. not too shabby.. the bearings both top and bottom werent too bad.. must have been replaced not all that long ago..

Eukanuba · 28-09-2008, 10:17 PM

Got the rear wheel off, came out nicely..

I wish i could say the same about the front.. I just cant get that bloody wheel off... the triple clamps came off easily, as did the head stem...

There must be some sort of trick to it..

Ok. let's move on with this frame...

lots of bits here that'll need to come off...

Let's get those rear brakes off..

2 Hex nut's here to release that Heel guard and brake lever..

There's a long bar, that stabilizes the rear brakes, you remove it - but removing this nut at the front..

Here's the rear of it - it also contains a split pin to prevent it wiggling loose..

Here's the bar that stabilizes the rear brakes..

Once the entire brake assembly is removed, this is what it looks like..

Once it's off the frame, it opens up alot of space...