Old school supermoto

[PowerStand]

My next project PE400, dont know if I will make it a Old school supermoto but it would be good.

[Christo]

I would have definitely gone with a PE400 if I could have found one! Only saw them for sale in the east. Yours looks like an excellent project. Looks failrly unmolested!

[PowerStand]

Picked it up from Tassie, cost just over a G but the bike was free. I havent seen a PE400 come up at all here in the west. You get the odd 175 but for a supermoto the 400 is the go.

[Christo]

I know where there is a good PE250, a T model from memory, but I thought he was asking a bit much. Might still pick it up at a later date.

[bushymuff]

er, lovely plan and good start so far, jus one question, where on earth are you shopping to get super moto wheels at 625 and spunky forks at 88 bux? jeeebus!!!

just finishing the gpz11 and on to the moto next. any suggestions freely accepted!!!

nicenice!

[Christo]

er, lovely plan and good start so far, jus one question, where on earth are you shopping to get super moto wheels at 625 and spunky forks at 88 bux? jeeebus!!!

just finishing the gpz11 and on to the moto next. any suggestions freely accepted!!!

nicenice!

I spend loads of time scanning the internet, ebay, gumtree & the quokka for parts at the right price. All prices include postage too!

[bushymuff]

sweet as!!! i buy n sell cars to fund my fun time habbits, will have to start looking more closely!!!! good luck and post photos ay!!

[Christo]

I am still waiting for the rectifier to arrive, but all the wiring is completed. A big thanks to David and Cameron for doing all the soldering and cut and shut that was required. I managed to find an older style round headlight (6 volt) and mounting brackets that would do the job.

roller03.jpg

As this is a vintage style bike chrome mudguards are definitely the way to go. The rear guard from an XS Yamaha fits like it was made for it. I trimmed down an old plastic guard for the inner half, painted it matt black and bolted it all up. The front guard is from a CX Honda, and the mounting bracket is a mock-up for a trial fitment. See above for the results.

roller02.jpg

This is what the bike looks like right now. The front end as it is now is only temporary, only the front guard will remain.

roller01.jpg

[Christo]

This is my latest concept for tank decoration (timber is American Oak) and is inspired by Suzuki TM tank stickers from the 70’s. This is the one I am going to go with (for now).

CC01-tank-024.jpg
http://crispycycles.blogspot.com/

[Christo]

Thanks to inertia@PSB for donating the rear tyre (yes it is street legal) and after digging through all of my boxes of parts, I found the missing tank rubber today and mounted up the fuel tank. The middle image is exactly how the bike looks now, the other images I have actually photoshopped the seat so it is thinner and improves the lines. My final tank ‘sticker’ does not work so well now. Its kind of lost in the whole thing, so the larger ‘sticker’ seems to work better. Back to the drawing board then.

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crispy01-002b.jpg

[Christo]

By sheer luck it turns out that the DR400 and KX250 steering stems have exactly the same bearings, so it will make the fork swap a lot easier. If anyone wants to do a fork swap then I came across this very useful document located at:
http://www.ohiocaferacers.com/OCRStemSizes.pdf

KXvsDRstemII.jpg

[Christo]

Used my wheel building jig again to build a mock-up of the 5x17inch supermoto rim laced to the standard DR400 hub and a 150/70 street tyre. Looks really ‘tough’ bolted in place and looks like it will fit without too much trouble. Will need to modify the brake torque arm and probably make a spacer for the rear sprocket so the chain clears the tyre. I have also cut and shut the seat which I will recover using some old and some new materials.


5inch003.jpg5inch002.jpg5inch001.jpg

[Christo]

The right rear corner of the seat was ripped anyway, so I thought I might as well do a cut and shut job on the seat to improve the ‘lines’. The local wrecker was in a generous mood and gave me an old seat for just $5 (probably all its worth) so I could salvage it to repair my seat. I don’t want the seat to look brand new, but still want a custom look. See if you can figure out what I am going to do using the two images as a reference.

seat-mod-01.jpg
seat-repair-01.jpg

seat-logo-1.jpg

[Christo]

Well not really, this is my latest concept in photoshop. Still not really happy with it. Will keep going till I am H A P P Y with it…

CC01-Oct-003.jpg

Vintage Supermoto LowRider Version!
What do you think of this concept?

CC01-Oct-004.jpg

http://crispycycles.blogspot.com/

[Tbird tracker]

Personally, like the low rider version, if you can make it work without to much drama/cost???
Still looks good in standard setup to. Your money, your choice!!

[Cowboy]

PRAISE THE LOWERED....... Everything is better lower...... it may knock your handling about a bit, but for pure style value, I would go for LOW!!!

[Christo]

I finally got round to repairing my seat which I had cut and shut to improve the lines. I took about 25mm off the top and about 75mm off the length. This allowed me to retain the old seat cover, I simply cut the damaged corner off and replaced it with my $5 seat cover which came from a Honda XR250RG. It looks very used, but that was what I wanted and cheap too. Just stuck it all back together with contact adhesive. I was thinking about sticking something else over the join for aesthetics and for additional reinforcement. maybe a natural brown leather belt?

seat-repair-02.jpg

[Christo]

OOps double double

[Christo]

Here are all the major engine components laid out on my new work bench, in my new workshop which is the size of a large broom cupboard. This is exactly how I got the engine. Two pistons one standard size in good nick, one piston 050 oversize with some scoring on the exhaust side. Two cylinders, one that has been rebored to about 87mm (standard bore is 85mm) and one rusty one which is ??mm. Two cylinder heads, one with a broken inlet valve (you can see where the valve marked the combustion chamber) and the other with a slightly bent inlet valve. So I suppose you could assume that the engine was disassembled because either a cam chain snapped or the engine was assembled previously with incorrect cam timing and caused the piston to bend the inlet valve. There appears to be no damage in the crankcases where the cam chain runs so I think the cause was the latter. Either way I will still be investing in a new cam chain.


engine-001.jpgengine-003.jpgengine-002.jpgengine-pistons000.jpg

[Christo]

The brake torque must be cut and shut to clear the 5” wide rim & 150 wide rear tyre.
I simply used an angle grinder to cut slots where I wanted the bend to occur. Once I am happy with the fit I will get it welded properly.
The other photo shows the difference in the brake-torque-arms, the one on the left is the standard one.

http://crispycycles.blogspot.com/


torq-arm003.jpg


torq-arm002.jpg