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Thread: Operation Antique Trailer rebuild - The new Bike Trailer

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    Member KillSwitch's Avatar
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    Operation Antique Trailer rebuild - The new Bike Trailer

    Hi guys,

    So I have had this Trailer in the family for 3 generations now. My Dad gave it a clean-up a few years ago but the poor thing has seen better days. Some have said to just sell it or crush it and buy another, but hey it was my Granddads who has passed on so I think I owe it to him to give it a rebuild. While I am at it, Ill also make it Bike friendly.

    Started with this. 6x4 Trailer with a top frame. Rotten, holes in floor, faded and not very bike friendly. High as a kite. It was great for the 4x4 but now having a lowered Liberty the bum sits up nice and high.

    I will put the axel over the springs, lowering the trailer about 2inches. If its too low Ill move it back.





    Started with taking off the frame to find that the top was rotten beyond repair, so new metal will be put here.




    Flipped it upside down to start working on removing the floor.



    Grind out the welds but most of it just fell out.



    Floor out.



    After looking at the Light and Plate Bar, that will also be removed and the lights relocated up higher. The plate hang below but on a strong hinge. This will also allow a little more clearance.



    So this is where I am up to after the weekends work. Time to order some new metal and find a Mig Welder to buy or Borrow.
    Attached Images Attached Images

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    Member gunn parker's Avatar
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    Looking good.
    Quote Originally Posted by out_in_front View Post
    #4: Pillion gets treated like they are made of glass and irreplaceable - I don't want that shit on my hands if I make a mistake doing something silly.

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    Member jaseyjase's Avatar
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    whats the plans? just another box trailer? or converting to dedicated bike trailer?

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    Member KillSwitch's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jaseyjase View Post
    whats the plans? just another box trailer? or converting to dedicated bike trailer?
    Its going to be both. Going to put cut-outs in the front of it for 2 bikes. Hoping to fit 2x 600s side by side. Though I think it might be a squeeze.

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    Member KillSwitch's Avatar
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    If you look at all those right angles, and if I add another 2x towards the front do you guys think a 2mm floor will be thick enough?

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    Administrator Brougham's Avatar
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    geez the sub-forum for motorbike build threads is slowly drifting...

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    Member KillSwitch's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nate View Post
    geez the sub-forum for motorbike build threads is slowly drifting...
    Feel free to delete it Nate if you don't think it is worthy of being on this forum. Being motorbike related and a project I thought it would be fine.



    Got some more work done on the front tonight.

    New floor in 2mm Gal is going to cost me $74 from Midalia Steel. Should pick one up early next week with some more metal for fixing rust, to build C channels for bikes and jerry can holders.

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    Member Vosy's Avatar
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    Im interested to see how this will turn out

    glhf
    Its not the size of the dog in the fight, but the size of the fight in the dog.

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    Member KillSwitch's Avatar
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    Update.

    After pulling it down more and more, finding more and more rust, I thought about buying another one. Looked around but all weak as piss.

    So this one is now heavy duty.

    2mm Gal Floor, and have replaced the sides and front with some 2.5mm angle and few extra supports.

    Floor out, starting to cut out the rust.


    Front support, ready to cut out.


    Floor supports along the sides cut out, what was left of them. Sides cleaned up with rust removing disk and etched.


    New 2.5mm angle on the front and sides




    New side floor supports (2.5mm right angle). Rear lights/number plate holder cut off, and replace with 3mm tube. Super strong.


    Tailgate on. Replaced more floor supports.


    Front wheel floor support added. Wheel sits directly on top of it. Top support ready to come off.


    Replaced with 2.5mm tube for tie down points.



    Now its time to:
    Put the floor in
    Replace the top sides
    Make a custom rear tailgate wrap around rear wheel when the bike is on the trailer
    Paint
    Lights

  10. #10
    Member KillSwitch's Avatar
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    So I decided to go the whole hog, and cut away any rust I could find. So the top supports had to go.



    Replaced with 3m right angle.



    All welded in and primed



    Floor was next. Sikaflexed it down and filled any metal on metal parts with it. This was a massive job and used 4 tubes. Then I got under it and tacked the floor in so when I flipped it again it wouldnt fall out.



    Flipped back over and then welded the floor in nice and strong.



    Scuffed it up and primed the whole lot.





    TIME FOR SOME COLOUR FINALLY!

    Went down to "Super Crap Autos" and bought 4L of Hammer Tone 3M Metalic Blue. This is great stuff, easy to apply. No need to thin it down either, after reading the can its self priming too. Dam!





    Last edited by KillSwitch; 27-02-2012 at 10:30 AM. Reason: Spelling Fail

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    Member KillSwitch's Avatar
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    Painted the top and fitted the new LED Lights, new wiring and plugs. Then it was time to see if it would hold the R6.



    So to help hold the bike on the trailer I decided the make some extras that would be easly removalbe if I wished the move something else or fill it with sand.

    First off was a removable front wheel holder thingo. This was the idea, have made it much stronger now.


    Then a Bar for the back to hold the rear wheel upright and stop it sliding around in the rear.
    j-mac likes this.

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    Member jaseyjase's Avatar
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    ks, nice job mate!

    May i suggest investing in a trailer mate, just drill some holes into the floor so you can bolt and unbolt the trailer mate, will make things a shitload easier and 100% one man loading and unloading. Dont forget to add eye bolts! I put some in the floor near the back wheel so the tyre down could strap over my rear tyre nice and tight, rock solid set up with the traielr mate up front.

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    Member KillSwitch's Avatar
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    I would but at the moment it wont be on there much. Only really for when we want to go away and take the bike with us. We are heading to Albany this weekend so will be taking the bike on the trailer. I cant justify the cost for the ammount of time it will be going on and off.

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    Member Valin's Avatar
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    Another thing to consider with trailermate as good as they are is the amount of room the take up. I think it would push the bike back at least 80mm which looks like too far for the trailer.

  15. #15
    Member L.B.'s Avatar
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    Now go spend the 100 or so bucks on new bearings & seals....
    Did this to a freeby dual axel 2 yr ago.Cost me 300 all up,new floor n paint etc,new bearings & seals ;-)
    Now I gotta keep it locked up,some bastards already tried to pinch it.

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    Member KillSwitch's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by L.B. View Post
    Now go spend the 100 or so bucks on new bearings & seals....
    Did this to a freeby dual axel 2 yr ago.Cost me 300 all up,new floor n paint etc,new bearings & seals ;-)
    Now I gotta keep it locked up,some bastards already tried to pinch it.
    Yep all over it. Trying to convert to Commodore Pattern but its proving to be a headache. Might have to stick with what I have, 5x110. Think the wheels are 46 off set based on what is on the wheel. Anyone know what this pattern is?

  17. #17
    Member KillSwitch's Avatar
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    Well I think it is Valiant, so new commodore wheels are no good. Offset will bring the wheel too far in. Apparently Ford wheels fit.

    So I bought new Bearings, grease and new Hitch. We are in business.

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    Member jaseyjase's Avatar
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    have you thought about chopping the front wall to make it 'removable' ? that way you can move your chock further forward and not have the back hanging off?

    probably a little late now though hah!

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    Member KillSwitch's Avatar
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    I did think about it, but its only the back of the tyre that hangs out, the wheel still sits easy in the trailer. Plus the weight is still up front with the motor.

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    Does anyone know where to buy tie down eyelets?

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