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2006 Yamaha R1SP - Mods by Hornet After having a 2-day-licenced driver decide to end my 11-year run of accident-free riding, I found myself bike-less for the first time since I got my licence to ride.
I had no idea what to get until I rode the SP and had a friendly push from good mate, Jamie, with thanks to Deej for his opinion on his bike.
So... I bought this bike 2nd hand, with some mods already in place. For a start, the exhaust cans are the stock items with the gold end caps, but it's been gutted and a race-style baffle used.
Secondly, it has had the fender eliminated.
Thirdly, the rear indicators have been junked for a brake light unit that houses the indicators. It's a neat unit that flashes half the brake light for either indicator, but, unless you know what to look for and are paying attention, they are hard to see.
Stock radiator and levers;
The first thing I did was change the running lights to LED units.
I also swapped out the standard bulbs for some Arctic Blue bulbs for low beam and +50 for high beam.
I bought TurboR1's no-longer-needed reservoir cap, too.
I plan to get this engraved with a small 'SP' under the R, similar to the plaque that's on the triple clamps.
Now I have a rough idea of what I want the end product to look like, but have no real plan. Firstly, I wanted to work with the gold theme already started by Yamaha with the gold Ohlins forks, Ohlins rear suspension and gold Marchesini rims.
First up was a gold radiator guard, as the Yamahas have radiators made from a substance that seems to attract rocks and is about as strong as wet paper.
I liked the look of the gold CRG levers I had on my GSXR so I purchased another set, this time Pazzo, to replace the stock silver items.
The swapping of the levers was pretty simple, but not with the ease of the Gixxer. The brake was the easiest and should not be a problem for even the most spanner-challenged amongst us.
It is quite simply a matter of undoing the nut under the lever, unscrewing the bolt that the lever pivots on and removing the old lever.
Once the old lever is off, you must grease the piston of the master cylinder.
Then mount the new lever and insert the bolt.
Screw it in until it is hand tight and then replace the nut and tighten it.
Viola, brake lever is done!
The clutch was a little more difficult, due only to the nut not being easily accessible under the mount.
To get to this, you have to undo the clamp so that the whole clutch assembly can be pivoted on the clip-ons. You must also disconnect the clutch sensor wires. Before loosening the clamp to rotate the clutch assembly, it is a good idea to mark or line up some manufacturing marks on the assembly and the clip on so as to put it back in the same place after you ahve finished.
Once the bolt is undone, it is then simply a matter of pivoting the lever out from the grip and removing the cable through the slot cut in the lever.
The metal sheave in the old lever has to be removed and placed in the new lever. IT is an idea to grease this before insertion.
Grease the cable, eyelet on the end of the cable and insert into the new lever, carefully placing the lever into position.
Once in place, insert the bolt and replace the nut. Rotate the lever assembly back into the original position.
Clutch lever, done!
Originally Posted by Deej 
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