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Old 02-09-2008, 10:25 AM   #1 (permalink)
 
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rgvlees R6

might as well post up a bit about the diesel.

This started off a couple of years ago, bought from col with 10k on the clocks and was practically new. This is where it is at now (sorry about the photo)



mirrors blocked off
tinted screen
alarm system
integrated taillights
fastags
speed bleeders
520 conversion (16/50)
genuine rear seat cowl
clutch cover slider
speedohealer
70 series front tyre fitted and forks raised to compensate

This stuff arrived today

Puig screen to replace the old tinted screen which was delivered with the bike (no idea on brand but it has started to crack, probably from exposure to the sun)


CRG levers, always wanted some.


Yoshi full system, stainless headers, ti TRS can, high exit.



I will also fit the adjustable lowering link when fitting the exhaust.

On order is the 15/50 sprockets and a new RK gold chain.

On the cards in the short term is an adjustable side stand. I intend on doing a few more plex runs this year hence the adjustable lowering link.
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Old 02-09-2008, 10:46 AM   #2 (permalink)
ZX2R, 125cc Dirt Bike & Pocket Rocket
 
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damm! - how many bikes do you have?
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Old 02-09-2008, 03:40 PM   #3 (permalink)
83' RZ250
 
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Talk about standing out like a sore thumb in your bike collection....








No gay pride flag.. no purple rims.. nothing...
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Old 03-09-2008, 01:01 PM   #4 (permalink)
 
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hey nath





get stuffed.
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Old 03-09-2008, 01:10 PM   #5 (permalink)
Giant CRX 2
 
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ARGHH.. went the high exit... will be good to see how it looks all fitted..
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Old 17-11-2008, 09:13 AM   #6 (permalink)
 
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Puig screen. I am not 100% happy with it at this stage, it scratches easily and had a couple from transit. I am going to get it polished.


My new tool, a cable oiler. I put a new clutch cable on whilst I had everything apart. They come dry when you buy them new. The new cable is smooth as silk now, huge difference.


New brake lever.


New clutch lever. Both levers were pretty easy to fit up. Just remember to use a bit of grease on the pivot points and watch the microswitch on the clutch lever.


Old exhaust off.


Up on T stands to fit the new lowering link.


Old link vs new link


Lowering link fitted.


Front sprocket and chain off. This was a mess before I cleaned it. I didn’t get a before photo but trust me, it was bad!


More to come!
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Old 17-11-2008, 01:31 PM   #7 (permalink)
'01 R6
 
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Nice mate, Is it an 01? I just picked up mine today and i can't wipe the smile off my face. I've got a yoshi tri-oval can lined up for it, dont think i'll go the headers though. How does yours sound?
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Old 17-11-2008, 01:33 PM   #8 (permalink)
A noble one.
 
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Top stuff lee, love your builds.
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Old 17-11-2008, 01:52 PM   #9 (permalink)
 
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It's a late 2000 build, 01 model... so it's got the nice tail lights, mirrors, paint scheme etc.
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Old 17-11-2008, 01:57 PM   #10 (permalink)
R1
 
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Looks good mate...Where do you get those brake and clutch leavers from? how much were they? Love to get some for the R1
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Old 17-11-2008, 02:09 PM   #11 (permalink)
VJ22 RGV 250
 

How does the cable oiler work? I've always just duct tapet a plastic bag full of motor oil over one end of the cable and just take it all apart after it starts dripping out the bottom. Makes a huge difference though. Especially on the RGV theres like 30 cables in there!
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Old 17-11-2008, 02:13 PM   #12 (permalink)
83' RZ250
 
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You just attach to the cable as demonstrated then poke WD40 or similar in the hole in the little red bit of rubber.
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Old 17-11-2008, 02:23 PM   #13 (permalink)
 
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I bought mine out of the states for $180 USD for the pair... when the aussie was 0.95USD though

Bought through hardracing.com, dodgy online store but pretty good to deal with.

cable oiler simply works by blocking off one end so the oil can only go one way. That way you can use a non-gooping spray in the lines. I would guess that motor oil on the lines gets messy pretty quick and probably collects a lot of shit.
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Old 17-11-2008, 02:34 PM   #14 (permalink)
VJ22 RGV 250
 

ah ok, yeah i get it... wouldn't oil be better? i would've thought WD40 would run out pretty quickly compared to oil...

edit - missed lees post...

yeah i spose, even though most of the time the cables are stuck in their lines... Still that cable oiler would be a hell of a lot easier and cleaner...
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Old 17-11-2008, 02:36 PM   #15 (permalink)
 
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Don't know about wd, wouldn't be my choice. I use a proper cable lube. Something that leaves a lasting residue like inox may be alright.
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Old 17-11-2008, 02:36 PM   #16 (permalink)
83' RZ250
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WIGARUS View Post
ah ok, yeah i get it... wouldn't oil be better? i would've thought WD40 would run out pretty quickly compared to oil...
Well.. now that its so easy you can do it more often

Its supposed to be done at major service intervals but I've only ever seen one mechanic that ever did it..


Edit: yea.. but WLeeS^ proper cable lube would be the go..
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Old 17-11-2008, 02:39 PM   #17 (permalink)
RZ250-R
 
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that cable oiler is a nice little gadget, i just ordered myself one
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Old 17-11-2008, 02:55 PM   #18 (permalink)
Suzuki Bandit 1250SA
 
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Cable oiler cost me about $15 at the local bike shop. I have silkolene Silkopen?. Apparently that's what they use at the shop. Seems to work pretty good anyhow.
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Old 17-11-2008, 02:57 PM   #19 (permalink)
ShedFullaDeadZeds
 
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^^^ That's what i use.
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