Turbo 04 R6 project

[Ryder]

Yep - it's really happening! It's no where near done yet though, so I'll be adding to this thread in bits and peices over the coming months.
I'm building a turbo into my 2004 R6. The idea is to use a TD04 turbo I sourced quite cheaply on Ebay, lower the compression ratio, and run about 10-12 psi through the whole system at the end. If I can get a power increase of around 30-40 percent I will be quite happy - but we'll see how we go during tuning

Ok first, a little background.

I've been playing around with the idea of turbocharging a bike for quite some time. And I love the 600cc class of bikes - I've owned this one for about 3 and a half years, plus a 95 ZX6R before that. Haven't really ever had a strong urge to get a larger capacity bike (maybe a newer one, but thats it), and I've spent a long time tuning the suspension - she really is an awesome bike. I can see myself keeping her for a very long time.

So, I finished paying the loan off a few weeks ago. My fitter traineeship is at an end, and really, there is no longer anything stopping me from finally getting around to starting the turbo project!
I will be building the whole setup from scratch, and fabricating everything I need for it myself. I figure this will keep me busy for a few months, and teach me a lot about turbo systems.

Thanks to the guys on here who have helped me out with advice and experience already - doubtless I'll need more before this project is over!

I will try and keep an accurate running tally of costs along the way.


First pic!

[lee]

Why is the nose off your bike, and you do realise that turbo is physically huge right? Where are you going to place it?

[Satan1]

It looks angry with the turbo

Looking forward to see how this pans out

[g0zer]

spidermanSS on the r1-forum has a turbo R6- perfect little bike for turboing, unlike building an unridable 250bhp + litre bike

that turbo does look kind of freaking massive...

[BigTim]

I don't quite understand the appeal behind putting a turbo on a relatively small capacity bike, but I'm looking forward to seeing how you go about it, and the fabrication involved

[Bendito]

Will be watching keenly, hopefully the thread doesn't get filled up with too much hate

[Murley]

Go you good thing! and WBendS

[sav_dan]

Good stuff
If you need anything laser cut (eg flanges) I've used www.lasercut.net.au , altho your location says Vic might be a bit far away.
I've used these guys for a holden 202 turbo manifold I'm making for a mate.

I tried to TIG weld my 05 r1 headers the other day, but didnt have much seccess. I emailed yamaha asking what material they use, but doubt ill get a reply.

[Ryder]

One of the first things I wanted to do was lower the compression ratio. This would allow me to re-install the engine to the bike, mock up the headers in situ and work on all the other systems without needing to take them apart again.



This of course requires the engine to be removed. First, all the fluids must be drained from it, and fairings, radiator, fuel tank, throttle body and air cleaner, wiring, hoses, chain and a few other things I cant think of just now need to come off.

Engine ready to come out


Then, the engine mount bolts come out, and, using a jack under the engine with a block of wood to support it, lower the engine to the floor.

Engine out



Next, the head has to come off. (just as a side note, it really is a great idea to have a service manual handy for this project as a whole. There are a few tricks and traps to look out for, and forewarned is forearmed)

Head off



Now that's done, the volume of the combustion chamber, stock head gasket, volume taken up by piston head and distance of piston below deck height must all be measured and calculated, checked against calculated manufactures volumes and the actual compression ratio be detemined. That's all done, and that will added in my next post.

[Ryder]

Why is the nose off your bike, and you do realise that turbo is physically huge right? Where are you going to place it?

It's my bike, I can take the nose off if I like

Please bear in mind, the photo of the turbo is a close up shot. It looks a lot bigger than it is. I will try and get a to scale photo up soon.

spidermanSS on the r1-forum has a turbo R6- perfect little bike for turboing, unlike building an unridable 250bhp + litre bike

that turbo does look kind of freaking massive...

It should make for an interesting ride through the hills when I eventually get around to coming home to WA... What do ya reckon?

Good stuff
If you need anything laser cut (eg flanges) I've used www.lasercut.net.au , altho your location says Vic might be a bit far away.
I've used these guys for a holden 202 turbo manifold I'm making for a mate.

I tried to TIG weld my 05 r1 headers the other day, but didnt have much seccess. I emailed yamaha asking what material they use, but doubt ill get a reply.

Cheers for that, will keep it in mind

Cheers guys

[g0zer]

It should make for an interesting ride through the hills when I eventually get around to coming home to WA... What do ya reckon?

scary...

[Joey]

sweet dude hope it works out well more pics!!! haha

[BrenR1]

td04 turbo are actually pretty small.
they come standard on most older wrx's.

looks good mate keep updating!

[ARKALUM]

I'm no expert but a 600cc engine is far too small for a TD04.

[chee]

I'm no expert but a 600cc engine is far too small for a TD04.

^^ buy interested to see how you go.

i would have opted for a t3/t4 flanged turbo for ease of changing the size of turbo, and theres nothing smaller afaik using the same flange as the wrx td04.

[Ryder]

Ok, now to work out the unswept area in the cylinder, and the compression ratio.

First, calculated areas based on the manufacturers specifications.

Yamaha gives the compression as ratio as 12.4:1,
The bore as 65.5mm, stroke as 44.5mm.
It also lists the cylinder head volume as 10.3 - 10.9 cc.

This would mean that the total combustion chamber area would work out to 13.16mm (roughly.)

area of bore = pi x r(sq)
= pi x 3.275cm(sq)
= 33.6955cm2

vol = bore (in cm sq) x stroke (in cm)

therefore vol = 33.6955 x 4.45
= 149.945 cc

which is what you would expect from a 4cyl 600cc.

Compression ratio is given as 12.4:1, and with that in mind you can find out combustion chamber volume. Because compression ration (CR) = (swept vol + unswept vol) / unswept vol,

12.4 = (149.945 + unswept vol) / unswept vol

therefore unswept vol = 13.15cc (close enough to.)

So with that in mind, you could measure the thickness of the headgasket, and times that by the area of the bore, and work out how much of that 13.15cc is made up by the stock headgasket. And them subsitute a different thickness to work out how it would affect the compression ratio. In theory.


I decided to actually measure mine, being as the engine was in peices anyway. It is a good chance to work out the actual compression ratio, just in case yamaha are as liberal with the truth about compression ratio's as they are with claimed power and weight.

To do this, you'll need to measure the volume of the cylinder head, the thickness of the headgasket, the height of the piston above or below the block at top dead center and the volume of the weird cut outs and lumps in the piston.

First thing I started with was the area of the piston head.
The first thing I saw was that although the piston sits just below the block at TDC, the raised portions of the piston would certainly take up some of the area of the cylinder head and head gasket.
Firstly, the piston top needed to be cleaned of carbon, washed clean of grease and fuel residue with a mild detergent, dried, and set at exactly TDC. I used a dial indicator to find TDC bang on, but frankly the timing marks were right on the money anyway.



Then, using an engineers square flat across the machined surface of the block, slide feeler gauges under the gap untill the appropriate one is found.



Once that is done, you need to move the piston down the bore far enough for the piston top to just be under the block height, using the dial indicator for absolute accuracy.
Once it is there, zero it or make a note of the reading, then move the piston a few cm further down the bore. Put a thin smear of grease close to the piston on the wall of the bore, and move the piston back up to the zeroed point.



Now wipe off all the excess grease, leaving only the grease above the rings bewteen the piston diameter and the bore. This will seal the ring gap.

Find a flat peice of perspex, drill a 5mm hole in it. A CD case works well, after you have ground off the raised egdes.
Smear a thin line of grease around the top of the block, and stick the perspex there firmly. This will waterproof the top of the cylinder.



Get an appropriate size syringe and needle. Bend the needle slightly. Mix up some water with a very small ammount of detergent (it will help with any residual fuel repelling the water). Put in an exact known ammount of liquid into the syringe, and inject it slowly into the bore untill all air is expelled, and no water is spilled. (it may take a few goes to get it right.)



Do this a couple of times to confirm an accurate measurement.
*note - I'm sure if you have one, you could use a burette for this too. I don't have one.


Next, the easy one - the head gasket.
I tried measuring it first with a micrometer, however it was too accurate. The headgasket changes size slightly in a few places, so a set of vernier calipers did a better job.
Times this value by the area of the bore to get the cc it gives to the combustion chamber.


Now for the head.
Clean all traces of the old head gasket off. Clean any carbon out. Degrease with a mild detergent as before, dry, and install spark plug.
It's the same trick as with the block, but more simple - a smear or grease, the same water mix, and inject water in untill all the air is expelled. Again, do it a few times to confirm.




Now you will have the three measured volumes! I measured

Cylinder head volume = 10.6cc
Headgasket volume = 2.696cc
Piston volume = took 7.9cc to fill. BUT

for piston volume, I had to move the piston down the bore for clearance, and take into account the block height. So once that is taken from the volume required to fill it, i was left with -0.18692cc from the piston head volume.

So, 10.6 + 2.696 - 0.187 = 13.109

so

(149.945 + 13.109) / 13.109 = CR

which equals 12.44:1. That is really close to the CR yamaha claim - so I am happy!

Now that is all out of the way, I know exactly what changing the head gasket will do to the CR. As you can see, the measured CR is so close to the claimed CR, I could have just used yamaha's one, however, now I know and my mind is at ease!

Doing the calculations from that, if I use a copper gasket of 1.6mm thickness, as opposed to the .8mm stock one, I will get a new CR of 10.5:1. I can get my hands of copper sheet that size fairly easily, so all I have to do is machine it up now and install it!



Whew! That was a lot of writing. Who actually read it all?

[Desmo]

Don't forget when sorting your head gasket that you'll somehow need to measure the compressed thickness.

[Lorenz]

Nice project, can't wait to see how it evolves...will follow the progress closely...

[WIGARUS]

I'm no expert but I'm going to tell you what to do

*cough* *cough* shut the fuck up then *Cough*


Interested to see how this pans out

Always loved the idea of a turbo bike

[polonY]

I read the whole thing, its funny how it seems so simple when reading, but must be a cunt of a thing to do in practice.

Good work, people are quick to criticise but I'm glad to see someone doing something different. If i had a bit more skill and knowledge, I'd love to have a crack at turboing my gpx, just for the sake of it. Worlds fastest gpx one day...one day. I look forward to seeing the finished job.