Sorry i never got around to telling you what i learned Jthr3e so ill spill it in here.
There are several things you can do to 'tweak' her as well, however it voids your warranty if its a new bike. These bikes (03 onwards i think) had their spark retarded between 4000 and 5500rpm. There is a wire in the CDI that you remove to give you the full spark. Removing the snorkel from the airbox made it noisier and restricted its breathing less, but not enough to warrant re-jetting. Also, there is a wire from the RAVE unit that controls when the power valve opens. Its better to withdraw the red wire out of the plug than cutting the grey loop, mainly because if you dont like the change, you just slip the pin back in. With the wire in, valve opens at ~8300rpm. Wire out valve opens at ~7700rpm. This really just changes how the power band it delivered. I liked it opening earlier as it gave a little more of a noticeable kick as she ventured up the rev range. I used to cruise at around 7000 - 8000 rpm so she was always ready to go (once run in).
The only oils i used was Fuchs Silkonlene series. The 2T oil i used was their Race compound. You will find you should get through a litre of oil every 1000 - 1200km. Keep an eye on the tank and the second the oil light comes on dont hesitate, fill the fucker up.
32000km is complete engine rebuild time. Fun TIEM!
16000km is piston and ring replacement time.
12000km is shock oil replacement time.
Every 8000km check your ring gaps on the piston and ensure they are within wear limits. I also cleaned the piston crown and the top of the cylinder head. It lowers your compression but i like to keep them clean. Don't do what i did and invest in a torque wrench. To take off the head means dropping the coolant so i usually changed it at the point and put fresh coolant in. Clean around the exhaust port. Take the pipe off to do this. Once you take it off and put it back on, you will never want to do it again. I fucking hated doing it. They say to change the air filter but i just cleaned it and it was fine.
*WARNING* ENSURE there is no possible way to crank the motor over when cleaning the ports. The piston will chop your finger off. My isolation of the stater when i was drunk resulted in a funny lil story, ill leave it to others to post it up.
Change your gearbox oil every 4000km if you ride it hard, you'll find you will give the clutch a hammering and it dirties the oil quite quickly. Once again Silkonlene. Strip and clean the carb. Adjust the the oil pumps calibration every 4000k or so and adjust as needed, otherwise you will gum everything up and pulling out the powervalve when its jammed sucks. I generally clean the chain around this time as well. Just remember to let kero dry out before trying to use chain lube other wise FAIL. Also change the spark plug. If your running it de-restricted I've found the NGK BR9EIX work best. Its Iridum and costs around $20 from memory. Check and clean the pads and brakes.
Every 2000km check the powervalve, clean it and clean the channel. This ensures it runs slick and so it doesn't jam open. While your at it dump some carbie cleaner through the carb. Use carbie cleaner, kero and a wire brush to clean the coke off the valve and its parts. Clean the spark plug too.
Get into the habit of lubing your chain every time you fill the tank, roughly 200km. Dont over do it, just do it lightly and often. Also check your chain tension when you lube it up. Ill add other shit as i think of it.
No better learner legal bike imo.
