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Thread: getting a37 year old 2T started..

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    Member bikermouse's Avatar
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    getting a37 year old 2T started..

    My aunty recently was clearing out her shed and happened upon a 1974 dt360 yamaha trail bike and decided to give it to me! The thing has 500kms on the clock and besides from a few patches of rust around some bolts presents as new. She ses the last time she saw it started was pretty much in 1974 when my uncle baught it, he unfortunately passed away shorty after and its been dormant ever since.

    ON first glance the only warning sign i can see is rust residue i get on my finger after running it around the inside of the fuel tank, i am going to obviously take that off and tinker a bit more but i was wondering...

    -what should i change replace?
    -what should i change and replace it with?
    -what else to look out for?

    before obviously starting it up again!
    Help appreciated,
    Owen.

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    Member Neil-51's Avatar
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    They are a collectible. Look after it!

    I would be tempted to pull the head off and check the bore for rust first. They should be a copper head gasket so you should be able to anneal it and reassemble.

    Other than that, I would clean the tank and carb, drain the 2st oil and add fresh stuff and fuel, then kick it in the guts.

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    RT
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    any pics??

    ning ning!!


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    D.J
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    after that long I would suggest new crank seals especially if it hasn't been regularly started and while your at it inspect the rest of the bottom end, I would check the big and little ends for corrosion/play,new inlet rubbers are a good idea, carby clean and sync, new plugs ect. DT360 is cool old school.
    There are two questions in life.
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    the 360 was the forerunner of the 400, and therefore more collectable, i would not restore it just do a cleanup, it will be worth more in orig condition

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    Member agrid's Avatar
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    That is one fine ying-yanger, keep it original
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    Member bikermouse's Avatar
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    hmm, ok after reading all this and doing a bit of research on the net i have to admit i was disappointed.. disappointed because i believed i was getting a bike i could thrash to pieces in the bush and not one worth "collecting!".. haha my dad is happy is anyway.. guess it will sit with pride along side all his other "collectable" crap in his shed (i got him to go halves in a KTM 250sx as a consolation prize) ive got the tank and other pieces off it atm in the shed so pics will come after reassembly.

    i was wondering, after asking around at bunnings and other hardware places no body seems to know what would be best to clean the rust out the old tank with? iv been suggested the "kill rust" liquid solution but nothing guarantees it wont be eaten by and pollute the fuel at a later date..

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    PSB Corporate Sponsor darkfibre's Avatar
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    I have seen some videos using electrolysis to remove rust but never done it. I have used a tank liner kit from The Rust Shop - Home and was very happy with it.
    Intelligence and education are three sides of the same coin.

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    Quote Originally Posted by bikermouse View Post

    i was wondering, after asking around at bunnings and other hardware places no body seems to know what would be best to clean the rust out the old tank with? iv been suggested the "kill rust" liquid solution but nothing guarantees it wont be eaten by and pollute the fuel at a later date..
    when you say rust is it small patches, complete tank, inside/outside
    be more specific

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    Member Tiger1's Avatar
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    Best thing would be to sell it, I will give you $200 if you stop pulling it apart, even more if you don't put it back together

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    Member bikermouse's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by HK31A View Post
    when you say rust is it small patches, complete tank, inside/outside
    be more specific
    i was pretty specific when i wrote "the only warning sign i can see is rust residue i get on my finger after running it around the inside of the fuel tank" in my first post, obviously without cutting the tank in half i cant tell if its in patches or not but i would assume it is if it all the way up the top near the cap.Must have leaked a bit off water in their all those many years ago and nested. Very little rust anywhere else on the bike.

    Quote Originally Posted by Tiger1 View Post
    Best thing would be to sell it, I will give you $200 if you stop pulling it apart, even more if you don't put it back together
    OK, ill get back to you when a) this thread is in the forsale section b) zombie apocalypse destroys the worlds electronic money database and 200 dollars cash is 10 times as valuable.

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    Member bikermouse's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by darkfibre View Post
    I have seen some videos using electrolysis to remove rust but never done it. I have used a tank liner kit from The Rust Shop - Home and was very happy with it.
    ahh cool, didnt know that place existed, will check it out!

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    RT
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    the best stuff i have found to remove rust in a tank is some high strenght hydrofluric acid and leave it over night.... but you might want to check into it first


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    Member bikermouse's Avatar
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    Okies UPDATE! bought and applied tank liner kit from The Rust Shop - Home in malaga for about $65, they are really cool guys and where very helpful it took 3 afternoons of cleaning/drying/applying coat 1-3/drying but end result was solid. Changed the fluids and filter, cleaned the carb/reed valve, serviced throttle/chain/bearings and axle.. dad convinced me not to pull the cylinder apart in fear that i would never put it back together and he is probably right so i just wd-40'd through the plug hole and intake port. After realising i was missing a key for it i disconnected the ignition which was disturbingly easy and decided to try it without the battery and with the old plug in for the first few kicks because i figured it would foul anyway and.... wallah! 2nd kick. It rain amazing and with very little smoke (is this cause for concern?) anyway heres a pic and i also got my bro to video the first attempt



    ‪1974 DT 360 Yamaha, first kick in 35 years.‬‏ - YouTube

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    Member dennisw's Avatar
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    A nice find!

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    Member Veefore's Avatar
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    I just found this thread. I was going to say use phosphoric acid in the tank as it cleans off the rust and leaves a fine, rust resistant coating inside. We've used it on a few bikes now and it worked really well.

    I really don't like the tank liner kits. There are too many reports from people in the classic bike ranks that have used them and who, after 5-10 years have ended up with a gloopy mess clogging up their fuel filters and inside their tank and a nearly impossible task to remove it.

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    That is sweet. As it's a two stroke the smoke will be dependant on the fuel mix.
    Thats the easiest restoration anyone's ever done of a 37 year old bike!

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    D.J
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    Quote Originally Posted by Veefore View Post
    I just found this thread. I was going to say use phosphoric acid in the tank as it cleans off the rust and leaves a fine, rust resistant coating inside. We've used it on a few bikes now and it worked really well.

    I really don't like the tank liner kits. There are too many reports from people in the classic bike ranks that have used them and who, after 5-10 years have ended up with a gloopy mess clogging up their fuel filters and inside their tank and a nearly impossible task to remove it.
    Like the concrete etching stuff? what concentration?
    There are two questions in life.
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    Member Benno #03's Avatar
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    Great Find.
    Wounds Heal, Bones Mend, Chicks Dig Scars and Glory Lasts Forever...

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    Member reddog's Avatar
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    Beautiful bike. My brother had a 74 DT400 and that thing was a great bike. I've seen one exactly like yours in show room condition at a vintage fair in Boyanup. Just keep it original it'll definitely be worth some money and will be worth showing at some of the vintage and jap bike shows around the place. A mate of mine is restoring a TY175 trials bike as well. Not sure of it's year though

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