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Thread: RGV 250 Arrows/Tyga exhaust

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    RGV 250 Arrows/Tyga exhaust

    Hi guys,

    Have some new Arrows pipes and Tyga exhaust coming, and a decent performance airfilter.

    Have seen a few problems around the net, that these don't run straight out of the box without carbie tuning. My carbs are stock standard for a 96'

    A ) Does it pay to put new reeds in with these pipes, or will I need to? Some people seem to think the standard reeds are fine and are better than performance, though a guy at a bbq yesterday said to put in performance reeds <--- Alcoholic maybe?

    B ) Will I have to rejet the carbies?

    Sorry flying blind with n00b questions when it comes to this 2 stroke, on a YZ it's a matter of chamber, reed and then a rejet, I'm assuming this would be the same?

    Cheers

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    Member Mick's Avatar
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    Mantic,

    From what Ive read on different forums is that if you put a high flow filter in then there is no need for a jet change. Ive also read mixed results on the reeds hence I still have the standard ones on my RS. I would get it all together and put it on the dyno to make sure but thats just me.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Mick View Post
    Mantic,

    From what Ive read on different forums is that if you put a high flow filter in then there is no need for a jet change. Ive also read mixed results on the reeds hence I still have the standard ones on my RS. I would get it all together and put it on the dyno to make sure but thats just me.
    Yeah I was under that impression also with the performance filter, it should all even out once it's all together.

    Cheers! See what happens I guess, hopefully Royal International Mail from the old Blimey is swift!

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    180
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    This is how I read it
    Performance airfilter would be ok on standerd jetting with standerd pipes.
    But if your fitting performance pipes at the the same time your should jet up as your bike will be running lean on standerd jetting as it will be drawing more air,
    Just check the plugs to see what colour they are after a short ride around the block,
    Dark and wet = to rich
    Light brown grey = to lean
    Even a broken clock tells the correct time twice a day

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    Quote Originally Posted by 180 View Post
    This is how I read it
    Performance airfilter would be ok on standerd jetting with standerd pipes.
    But if your fitting performance pipes at the the same time your should jet up as your bike will be running lean on standerd jetting as it will be drawing more air,
    Just check the plugs to see what colour they are after a short ride around the block,
    Dark and wet = to rich
    Light brown grey = to lean
    The bike is already on the rich side as it is, so I'm hoping it may lean it out to normal with the mods...

    Cheers for the info, I will look at it when all my kit arrives

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    180
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    I've been playing around with my bike for the last two years, what I found out the hard way $$$$$$$ was that if you mod one part of the engine this leads on to another part needing to be done to make it run right ,
    Nothing is ever simple with two strokes.
    Even a broken clock tells the correct time twice a day

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    With great power comes great wallet raping...

    I am learning this as I some-what rebuild this bike back to new, though I do have a very strong motor, so I don't want to mess it up

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    Member richarde's Avatar
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    I wouldn't change the reeds - I have heard carbon reeds mentioned several times, but I haven't seen anything showing that it is actually any better. Pretty sure I saw a dyno chart showing no improvement. Check out RGV250 forums.

    Jetting-wise you should be close to stock. I'm running Tyga pipes and mine runs a little rich on stock jetting. I have heard of people going down 1 jet from the stock size on a stock engine, as they are jetted rich from factory, but haven't tried it myself. You can find more jetting advice on rgv250.co.uk, but keep in mind that they are in a colder climate than us, so it may not be quite right for our climate.

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    I use the carbon reads on both my bikes, I found that they gave a more crisp throttle response,
    But no performance gain.
    It might be a good idea to replace your reads for with stock item, as they do wear over time.

    If you can get a copy of two stroke performance tuning by Graham bell
    His book will explain all
    Even a broken clock tells the correct time twice a day

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    Arrow pipes and tyga cans? or tyga pipes?

    The cans won't make much difference.

    Arrows on a stock motor shouldn't require a jet change.

    TYGAs on a stock motor will probably need to be leaned out. I have an RS250 with them and a piperx air filter and it's pretty fluffy on stock jetting. It's ridable but is too rich. I would start with the needle then move onto the mains, the pilots don't seem too bad.

    High flow filter on a stock motor shouldn't require a jet change.

    Stick with stock reeds.

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    Quote Originally Posted by rgvlee View Post
    Arrow pipes and tyga cans? or tyga pipes?

    The cans won't make much difference.

    Arrows on a stock motor shouldn't require a jet change.

    TYGAs on a stock motor will probably need to be leaned out. I have an RS250 with them and a piperx air filter and it's pretty fluffy on stock jetting. It's ridable but is too rich. I would start with the needle then move onto the mains, the pilots don't seem too bad.

    High flow filter on a stock motor shouldn't require a jet change.

    Stick with stock reeds.
    Tyga pipe, arrow cans.

    I have piperx filter coming as well.

    I'll check out the jetting when I fit later next week.

    Thanks all for your help!

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    So I put on the new exhausts as well as a brand new engine rebuild with the pipecross airfilter. Ran the new engine in for roughly 200k's

    What mad power does this bike posess? Wheelies in 2nd now with ease!!! I thought the exhausts wouldn't make much difference... I WAS WRONG! Probably also helped that there are new pistons, chambers and bearings to boot.

    Didn't really have to mess with the carbs, no flat spots, just seems to be a bit dead from 4-6k then you can feel the surge coming on, then once it hits 9.5k Look out!

    Is there any way to fix the bottom power curve? or will I just need to stay above 6k if I'm riding and forget about being a nanna below 6k?

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