RS 250 not hitting powerband

[G-Bek]

so after throwing a new top end in the Aprilia i got her started, but it seems she is not too keen on wanting to go.
i went for a ride but it didn't want to take off. it took a handful of revs and a lot of clutch work to get moving. as i got down the street i tried giving it a bit of revs. it hesitated and sort of wound its way up to around 10k revs but wasn't pulling well at all.

when i had the barrels off i cleaned out the powervalves and buffed all the carbon build up off and i'm sure it was all put together correctly. any pointers or possible things to check?

[Borrris]

Re- check your power valves, but... If the problem is there from take off I'd be checking for exhaust leaks and carb/ fuel issues.

Did you use new exhaust gaskets after the re- build? I used new ones and still had to use Copper high temp sealant to seal em up good.

[HK31A]

when you rev the bike you see the pulley moving ?

you pluged all the wiring plugs back together?

can only assume your not telling us something

[G-Bek]

i used new exhaust gaskets but they did seem a little loose, as in not compressing well at all. i'll re-check them.

the powervalve pulleys should move when revving the bike yeah? i didn't check for this yet. if they're not moving what do i check?
do the powervalves need some kind of lubricant in them? i just cleaned all the old 2 stroke oil build up out of them and assumed that it'd work its way back in there again, i only put a little bit of fresh 2 stroke in there during the build.

all the plugs are connected i' m sure of this, and i just fitted a new piece of fuel line from tank to carbs

[G-Bek]

oh, and i noticed it was leaking coolant from the base gasket of the front cylinder but it's not into the oil. probably irrelevant but just sayin

[darkfibre]

oh, and i noticed it was leaking coolant from the base gasket of the front cylinder but it's not into the oil. probably irrelevant but just sayin

Aren't the crank bearings on this type of engine running outside of the crankcase oil? You could have coolant around the crank and rod bearings without it showing in the oil.

I'm sure someone will correct me if i'm wrong.

[Goldmember]

Also have you got the right plugs in the bike or have you replaced them for that matter ?

[HK31A]

the powervalve pulleys should move when revving the bike yeah? i didn't check for this yet. if they're not moving what do i check?
do the powervalves need some kind of lubricant in them? i just cleaned all the old 2 stroke oil build up out of them and assumed that it'd work its way back in there again, i only put a little bit of fresh 2 stroke in there during the build.

yes if you rev the bike around 8g if i remember you should see both pulleys rotating

you will need a manual to adjust the pv's or google it as the manuals version is a little complicated way of doing it

my 22 has just shit itself so i will be doing the same in the near future and then will be a true expert

as long as they rotate freely they will be fine

as for the coolant leak you will find its a little further up as theres no waterjackets below midway of the cylinder-could be a hose clamp issue

then again i could be stand corrected in all of the above

[richarde]

If it is leaking from the base gasket then I'd fix that first. It can leak water from the base gasket - directly under the exhaust port there is a water gallery that is sealed against the crankcase. If the base gasket isn't sealing properly it could suck in air or blow out part of the intake charge which isn't going to help one bit.

Darkfibre - these bikes don't run crankcase oil - only the stuff that comes through the oil injection which isn't a huge amount, and gets burnt by the engine. Yes, a leaking base gasket could cause coolant to flow down into the cases and would be difficult to detect.

Are the base gaskets you used new? The bike didn't overheat before the rebuild by any chance did it?

For powervalve checking do the grey wire trick. Connect the grey wire with a bullet connector that is right near the battery to the -ve of the battery with the ignition on and it will put the powervalves in the middle position. Killswitch the bike and turn it off, then adjust them up. To check full open position start the bike and kill it when it is half-way through the powervalve cycle it does just after the bike is started.

[G-Bek]

yeah cool cheers lads. i'll hopefully get onto it this weekend coming and get it sorted.
plugs r brand new br8ecm
gaskets are new and bike hasn't overheated
richarde, i like your pv trick, will give it a bash. cheers

[Gangus]

Br9ecm.......

[G-Bek]

aha i have it. its not getting spark to the top cylinder. idiot i can believe i didn't check that. but.. i'm not so good with electrics.

there was a wire disconnected from the coil pack which i thought was the problem but i connected it and started her up but no love.

could it be a fuse or something simple? i don't really know what to check.

the only thing i changed electrically was a new battery

[Gangus]

before you start her, press the right most button on on your dash till you get voltage.
should be 11.4 off and 13.4 or so running.