Suzuki GT 250b Electrical Problems

[hockeyjunkie691]

New bike owner, been at this problem for close to two months without much progress. Newly replaced parts include brand new points and condensors, old stock Rectifier, and brand new fully charged battery. I've set my points gapped to .015 within the .012 and .016 guideline, Ignition not advanced or retarded. Ignition switch on, in neutral, with my engine kill switch in the on position.

Now heres the problem....

When I'm checking and gapping my points, I'm sure i'm gapped correctly, however I'm using a test light to check continuity to my points and on one set of points, the test light is constantly on through a full two rotations. Any ideas of what could be the cause of this? Bad ground, Bad condensor from the new stock, or any ideas?

[hockeyjunkie691]

^^The reason for the extensive research on this topic is this. No spark, I've searched Dansmc to troubleshoot and havent had much success in terms of diagnosing this problem.

[GSX IN SHED]

Got a pic? sounds like open circuit.( wired/contact jammed at base plate????) points break open to fire coils..yeh....?
so one set is good?...Only on one set... disconnect cond. on the failed set and check with multimeter for short to earth..ok?
...borrow one or buy meter is a $25 unit @ Jaycar..(and get 2 x alligator clips) to free up hands....hope this helps...

[darkfibre]

Are you sure the insulator on the points where the wire connects is not put on backasswards?

[hockeyjunkie691]

GT-250A.JPG

^^ There is a picture of the wiring diagram that I have been using, its the exact same one they have in the shop manual.

[darkfibre]

You have power at the points until they ground the coil when the points close.
If the points are connected properly your test light should go out when the points close.

If the test light stays on either the points are not closing or the contacts are poor. New points should have the contacts cleaned with solvent as they can have anti corrosive coatings.

[hockeyjunkie691]

Points are set, but no spark. I turned off the lights in the garage to crank the engine over and saw spark jump on (What I believe to be) the set of points that I figured was working by use of the test light. The points base plate is on top of the rotor, in front of the Generator, the wiring goes through a base plate hole under the chain guard, and joins the rest of the wiring harness, there isnt much room for a jammed up or crushed wire. I will try for a bad earth by the condenser and update tomorrow.

Darkfibre

What exactly do you mean by the insulator on the points? I used a sudco brand set of points and condensers, and just twisted the exact same color wires I snipped from the old set of points and cond's, to the new set.

[hockeyjunkie691]

gt250 generator.png

Better diagram to work with showing exactly what i'm working on.

[GSX IN SHED]

The two halves of the points are electrically isolated from each other when open.
Circuit is complete when closed..unless wire/solder/crimp or insulator is bridging ...
Is it possible that the insulation on the points is melted....causing short?
is there a spark at the plug lead/spark plug on the ok side of points/coil when cranking engine??

[darkfibre]

The point where you connect the wire to the points has an insulator.

A short can not be the problem if the test light stays on.
The condenser can not be the fault if the test light stays on.

The only thing that turns off power at the coil negative (points wire) is the points closing, completing the circuit to ground.

[hockeyjunkie691]

generator.jpg

Not my bike, friends motor which has no head and is seized, but just to illustrate what we're working with.

[hockeyjunkie691]

I will absolutely check for a crispy wire tomorrow, there is no spark, its arc-ing across the point on the left hand side which is the one I have tested that I thought to be good.

[darkfibre]

Points do arc a bit normally, but it should be minimal. The job of the condenser is to reduce that arcing (over simplification).
Lightly grease the lobe the points run on so they dont wear out the rubbing block closing up the gap.

[hockeyjunkie691]

Ok, the cam lobe has been greased up using the appropriate lube, I switched the black wires that lead to the condensers, thinking that may have been bassackwards, with no luck. I ungrounded the condenser, that didnt turn the test light off either. The only other thing I have yet to try is to clean the points. There werent any singed or uninsulated wires either. Any more ideas?

[smokeymatt]

do you have a fully charged battery connected up while you ar testing?

[hockeyjunkie691]

I sat down and fiddled with it before the weekend, and I'm getting spark to both plugs now. Thanks for food for thought everyone.