clutch plates how to

[g0zer]

i learnt something about clutch plates (at least yamaha rz plates) and thought i would share.

the steel clutch plates are deliberately cutout and unbalanced to cause them to centrifuge out when disengaged which stops them rattling.

when you pack the clutch you must arrange these cutouts evenly to prevent to clutch becoming unbalanced



^ 12 o'clock



^4 o'clock



^8 o'clock



^full pack

[K1GxR]

don't forget to soak clutch plates in oil

[GD Engineering (Gavin)]

Or you can get rid of them and the poxy o-ring/anti-shudder crap at the back and end up with a more positive feel and effectively more usable friction contact surface area.Seen that setup on anything modern? Not mean't to be a negative comment mate, just something to improve it.

[Commander Keen]

I'm replacing my clutch soon, good to know G0zer.

[duffman]

Something I will probably never need to know, butI found it interesting none the less.
Cheers for posting it up.

[Robo]

Or you can get rid of them and the poxy o-ring/anti-shudder crap at the back and end up with a more positive feel and effectively more usable friction contact surface area.Seen that setup on anything modern? Not mean't to be a negative comment mate, just something to improve it.

I like improvements, but I must be a bit slow...
What is Gavin saying ??
To leave out the steel rings ??? (them)

I didn't even understand what was the pictures showing ???
My XV1000 clutch does slip, and so yes I am interested in this sort of Info..
Tar..

[g0zer]

funny-ly enough when i first started this motor after building it, the idle was very low until i started dialing in the carbs.

when the idle is very low, there was a bit of a rattle coming from the clutch pack i guess there was not enough g force to throw the plates out. once i picked the idle up closer to specification it quietened down.

if i hadnt made this thread i wouldnt have had any idea what may have caused it and might have panicked that it was a bearing sound.

[WIGARUS]

I like improvements, but I must be a bit slow...
What is Gavin saying ??
To leave out the steel rings ??? (them)

I didn't even understand what was the pictures showing ???
My XV1000 clutch does slip, and so yes I am interested in this sort of Info..
Tar..

the clutch steels in gozers pictures have a cut out in one area, so they aren't perfect circles. I think what Gav is saying is to ditch those steels for steels that are without the cutouts. more steel surface area, more bite.

[Nath]

Aftermarket steels look like this (no tab):



the factory steels look like this (note the tab at 8 'clock):

[Jamathi]

early R6 seem to fit as well?

[Nath]

Yea, they do, but you can get a much better deal on a steel + friction plate + spring kit for the banshee IMHO.

The R6 friction plates apparently have a bit more surface area (from stock).

I run the EBC kits.

[Robo]

Okkaaa... Nice, now I see what we talking about...
lucky I didn't just chuck out all the steel rings... hah
good info... Thanks replies.

I raised the gearing on my old XV, and it slips now in top...
plates look ok, i'll try soaking in solvent...??
washers under springs didn't help... I know this is off topic but thought to mention !?!

[Nath]

Is it adjusted properly ?

Does it have an adjustment on the pressure plate or clutch arm ?

[g0zer]

i think heavier springs will make more difference than more preload with shim washers. as per setting up shocks, more preload is not the answer to all problems because the spring rate remains the same.

[Robo]

Yes I think you are both right..
The adjustment is good, there is freeplay...
And 27 year old springs are probably past their best...
Nice info re: pre-load... tar

1983 Yammie TR1 1000cc Vee Twinn chain drive... just beautifull...
With super high gearing... and engine mods coming
The old clutch needs re-newing I guess...

[Desmo]

Or you can get rid of them and the poxy o-ring/anti-shudder crap at the back and end up with a more positive feel and effectively more usable friction contact surface area.Seen that setup on anything modern?

'02/'03 R1 has the poxy wire ring/anti-shudder and I'm sure other years too, Duc has the unbalanced steels too.

[GD Engineering (Gavin)]

i think heavier springs will make more difference than more preload with shim washers. as per setting up shocks, more preload is not the answer to all problems because the spring rate remains the same.

The springs "relax" over time and offer less net resistance per unit lineal displacement. Spring rate will matter in a dynamic situation, eg a shock absorber,it's the Hookes' constant you're after ( pertaining to what it's made of and wire diameter) as it receives only punctuated loading in a clutch.....applying a little more preload will give it a band-aid solution but you run the risk of coil bind at full disengagement. Also, as the clutch wears, the pack thickness reduces, further reducing preload on a clutch that is more than likely on the way out.

[GD Engineering (Gavin)]

'02/'03 R1 has the poxy wire ring/anti-shudder and I'm sure other years too, Duc has the unbalanced steels too.

And some Zooks too, should have chosen me words a little more carefully then.

[Robo]

Thanks Gavin for very nice reply...
I can understand now that Yes... It would be sensible to go for a set of NEW springs.
And thanks for the advice and lesson on 'the packer washer'... very good.
Appreciate ur time and attention to detail...
Good advice allways seems so obvious, after it is given,
I find... huh.

[buelllord]

Okkaaa... Nice, now I see what we talking about...
lucky I didn't just chuck out all the steel rings... hah
good info... Thanks replies.

I raised the gearing on my old XV, and it slips now in top...
plates look ok, i'll try soaking in solvent...??
washers under springs didn't help... I know this is off topic but thought to mention !?!

Robo,

Purely out of interest, what oil are you running ............

buelllord