How to best run in a new engine?

[greggo]

You guys know every bike built in a Japanese factory is run on a dyno to redline in every gear. They monitor everything from suspension movement to engine performance.



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[filbert]

You guys know every bike built in a Japanese factory is run on a dyno to redline in every gear. They monitor everything from suspension movement to engine performance.



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The CBR250R isn't built in a Japanese factory.

[greggo]

You have a point, but only if the metallurgy and build techniques are different.

Thai engineering is excellent when given proper quality control.

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[cbr77]

take it to the twisties, go through a tank up there. Lots of gear changes, use the whole rev band, don't stay at a constant RPM. Guys here seem to know what they're talking about, good advice itt.

[Spock]

Have you read you owners manual? Usually the manufacturer has a pretty good idea of what to do.

Funny how people would rather follow some crap advice from some guy on the internet that they don't know from a bar of soap, rather than read and follow the manual which was written by the people who made the bike (and who are providing a warranty for their product - and therefore have a vested interest in making sure it lasts).

Seriously though, it's not rocket science - just ride the bike but treat it with the respect you'd give any new toy - ie. try not to flog it to death before you've even got used to it.

[Barfridge]

yeah, but everyone wants something for free, and to feel they are smarter than the average chump and have secret, forbidden knowledge.

Pity it seldom happens.

[kennyboy]

Ignorance is bliss, I'm blissful

[RRossi]

Thrash the Fuck out of it,

for one its a Honda and second you would have sold it way before there are any real problems!


I have VTR250 2006 and it has just hit 27k it has had a hard life but I always change the oil and filter every 3k

and she runs sweet, got to love that Honda Build Quality!


RR

[Sonik]

Yeah, fuck it up and sell it to some poor unsuspecting bastard lol only downside is you can't see him rage when it has a meltdown but you still get that awesome feeling of getting one up on someone

[Aufitt]

You'll need a shrinking machine, and some very small running shoes with some grip, and take the key out so nobody starts it while you are in there.

[Munkers]

Funny how people would rather follow some crap advice from some guy on the internet that they don't know from a bar of soap, rather than read and follow the manual which was written by the people who made the bike (and who are providing a warranty for their product - and therefore have a vested interest in making sure it lasts).

Seriously though, it's not rocket science - just ride the bike but treat it with the respect you'd give any new toy - ie. try not to flog it to death before you've even got used to it.

A wise man has spoken.

[truewheel]

Funny how people would rather follow some crap advice from some guy on the internet that they don't know from a bar of soap, rather than read and follow the manual which was written by the people who made the bike (and who are providing a warranty for their product - and therefore have a vested interest in making sure it lasts)...

Complete text of relevant passage in owners manual is:

RUNNING-IN
Help assure your motorcycle’s future reliability and performance by paying extra attention to how you ride during the first500 km (300 miles).
During this period, avoid full-throttle starts and rapid acceleration.

Forgive me for seeking some expansion on these 35 words given the advice to the contrary I got from the dealership.

A wee bit harsh.

[Aufitt]

Those 35 words are all you need.

Here's 6-

Dont labour it, Dont ring it.

[polonY]

Just ride the fucken thing and do what the Honda owners manual says. I would be highly surprised if any post you read on here is composed by someone with the knowledge to actually answer you correctly, and no one at the bike shop will know either. Everything you will hear on here or at the bike shop will be bro science based on fuckall.

Honda knows whats best, if their manual says to do something, do it. If it says nothing, just go out and ride the thing.

[Aufitt]

Having run one in with none of ECU problems some rant about , or the stalling issue, or the 'Rattle' (its a single).. pm me.

[darkfibre]

Get 3 identical bikes and run them in with 3 different methods, and I bet you they will all have a long life if maintained correctly.

[Spock]

I went for a bit of a net search and found this...

Break In Secrets--How To Break In New Motorcycle and Car Engines For More Power

Kinda wish I hadn't read the article... MotoMan makes my head spin!
Is this the good oil or evil voodoo?

Complete text of relevant passage in owners manual is:

RUNNING-IN
Help assure your motorcycle’s future reliability and performance by paying extra attention to how you ride during the first500 km (300 miles).
During this period, avoid full-throttle starts and rapid acceleration.

Forgive me for seeking some expansion on these 35 words given the advice to the contrary I got from the dealership.

A wee bit harsh.

Sorry, my comment wasn't really directed at you; this has been raised many times before by people who have previously linked to the motoman "thrash your bike until it's run in" method.

Here's a bit more detail about running in an engine:

The engine running-in (breaking-in) period

If you are lucky enough to have a brand-new bike it is important to know that the most important period for your engine’s longevity is the first 1000 km. During this “break-in” or “run-in” period the various engine parts wear in to the correct operating clearances. The most important things to avoid during this period are:

1. operating the engine at one set throttle and rpm setting for sustained periods;
2. overheating the engine;
3. full throttle operation;
4. revving the engine to the red line. Instead, progressively increase the maximum rpm used during the first 1000 km (eg. for a bike with a 10,000rpm redline, start with a 5000rpm limit and every 100km increase the rev limit by another 500rpm);
5. labouring the engine (ie. using low revs with lots of throttle).
6. using a “slippery” synthetic oil - not only during the running-in period but for at least the first 5000 km (better still, 10,000km).

Finally, change the oil and filter after the first 1000 km (some say much sooner). New engines shed a fair amount of metal particles and it’s important remove these metal shavings and other contaminants that have accumulated in the oil and filter during the break-in period.

[NMBRPL8]

Definitely change the oil after 1000kms, or sooner. Id go so far as to say change it again after another thousand if you can. On the first oil change on any new motor you will see a lovely metallic sheen in the oil after you drain it, all the little bits of engine coming out as it wears in. First oil and filter change is very important, i cringe when they come in after a few thousand kms and still have that gunk circulating through the motor.

[Paraletic]

I would be highly surprised if any post you read on here is composed by someone with the knowledge to actually answer you correctly, and no one at the bike shop will know either. Everything you will hear on here or at the bike shop will be bro science based on fuckall.

Care to elaborate?
Do you even know what you are talking about?
Are you trying to say you are the only one on here that KNOWS the answer, but you wont tell us?
have you pulled down engines in all sorts of conditions from just after dyno to 1,000,000 kms / 25,000 hours, and inspected every single component with a fucking magnifying glass?
do you get in a sparky to fix your lights, then tell him he has no idea what he's doing, nor does anyone else?

[filbert]

he's still pissy about when he tried to explain what torque and got laughed at, it was because none of us knew what we were talking about