How to repair a ZZR 250 clutch cable

[Mybowlcut]

Was attempting to do a U turn on a quiet street whilst practising e-stops this afternoon when my clutch cable snapped. The bike lunged forward when it happened and I nearly dropped the friggon thing. My friend knew how to ride it home without the clutch luckily, and it was only a couple of Ks home.

He said he's going to ring Motorcycles Plus tomorrow to get a quote. I'm curious to know if there's anything else I should check when replacing the cable (friend will show me how to do it) in case a snapped cable can mean something else is fishy. I've read that the cable will need to be lubed, but didn't see much else on the topic.

Cheers.

[Mybowlcut]

With the help of a friend, I've replaced the clutch cable and the bike seems to be running fine. Would anyone be interested in a small how-to (with some help from more experienced PSBers)? I took pictures of what we did because I know I'd like to be able to do it myself if I were in the same position.

[JoJo]

With the help of a friend, I've replaced the clutch cable and the bike seems to be running fine. Would anyone be interested in a small how-to (with some help from more experienced PSBers)? I took pictures of what we did because I know I'd like to be able to do it myself if I were in the same position.

I'd like to see it, including a basic pic on where / what it is so I know what to look for if it's getting close to breaking....

[Mybowlcut]

Ok, I'll write a quick, very basic how-to here and hopefully other people can fill in the gaps on anything I missed.

[Mybowlcut]

Below is a rough explanation of how my friend and I replaced the clutch cable on my 1991 ZZR250.

The pictures aren't that great, but you can sort of see where the cable has snapped/frayed:





1. Take the right hand side fairing off.

If you have a centre/rear stand, you might want to use it.



There are several (7 or so) screws in total. Most will need a Philips head screwdriver and two down the bottom will require an Allen key. Once you have all the screws out and the fairing is sitting loosely in position, carefully pull the fairing away from the frame slowly, until you can see the indicator wire from above. Disconnect this and then rest the fairing somewhere. It was easier for me to do this with two people so that I didn't have to worry about dropping the fairing.

2. Disconnect the clutch cable from the clutch lever.



Loosen the locknut at the clutch lever. Then loosen the adjuster (next to the locknut, further away from the lever). Take the metal "pin" out from underneath the clutch lever. This is the small cylinder-shaped thing that holds the inner cable onto the lever.



Take the whole end of cable away from the clutch lever and let it rest freely somewhere on the bike.

3. Disconnect the clutch cable from the clutch release lever (near the clutch cover on the engine).



There is another "barb" at this end of the cable that you need to slot out.



You'll also need to loosen the adjusting nuts and remove one of them.

4. Lube the inside of the clutch cable.



5. Install the new cable.



This is pretty much a reverse of what we've just done. Slot the cable through the bracket next to the clutch cover that holds the cable in place (technical term?).



Slot the barb into place on the release lever. Tighten the adjusting nuts. If you remembered how much space you had on either side of the adjusting nuts, it will make adjusting the clutch cable easier, but it's quite simple to test the friction point and adjust repeatedly until you get it. Obviously don't go adjusting it yet since we haven't put the clutch lever end of the cable back.

Place the barb at the clutch lever end of the cable back into the slot under the lever and tighten the locknut and adjuster. Once everything is in place, you can start adjusting the clutch cable tension/friction point (correct term?) via the adjusters at the release lever end.

Connect the indicator wire back together.

Put fairings back on.

Test indicators if you're paranoid like me.




That's it. If I've missed anything or misused a term, please correct me. If it's desired, I could add numbering to the pictures to identify the adjusters, etc.



Some extra clutchy goodness out of the manual:

Clutch lever play: 2-3 mm standard.
Clutch Spring free length: 32.6mm standard. Service limit: 31.7mm.
Friction plate thickness: 2.9-3.1mm standard. Service limit: 2.8mm.
Friction and steel plate warp: Less than 0.2 mm. Service limit: 0.3mm.

[Mybowlcut]

I just remembered that the bike is a Jap import version which affects the lights and carbs I think? I remembered because I was reading this site which was linked to in another thread. This article says that you need to take the fuel tank off and both fairings to get to the clutch cable? I certainly didn't need to do that for my bike.

[antoineperth]

just out of curiosity....how do you ride the bike without a clutch? im assuming get the revs right for the next gear and try to click it in?

[Mybowlcut]

Yep that's what I think he did. I had to push start him to get it started at first, since it was in 2nd.

[Gixxerguy]

To clutchless shift up you put a constant pressure up on your gear stick and when you reach the point where you want to shift you increase the pressure and briefly back off the accelerator and the drop in revs matches in with the next gear so it clicks up.

Clutchless shifting down involves getting the revs very very low (about 2000rpm or less) and just clicking it easily down.

[polonY]

To clutchless shift up you put a constant pressure up on your gear stick and when you reach the point where you want to shift you increase the pressure and briefly back off the accelerator and the drop in revs matches in with the next gear so it clicks up.

Clutchless shifting down involves getting the revs very very low (about 2000rpm or less) and just clicking it easily down.

You can clutchess shift down or up at any revs, it has nothing to do with rev matching. It has to do with a quick jerk of the throttle to unload the gearbox, so that it can shift. Of course rev matching will make the shift smoother, but not a necessity.

Clutchless shifting down works the same, quickly snap off the throttle to unload, and press down.

[SP33D]

cheers mate, good to know some of this stuff here

[Arwon]

Nice write up,

and just one very impotant point for people.
The routing of the clutch cable is very important and may have been the reason it broke. It must be smoothe and not kinked, and when on full lock in both directions the cable sheath should not bind against the head stock or anything else, also if it has a kink you will notice the lever is harder to pull, andit will wear the cable out early.

edit: moved so others can be helped

[Mybowlcut]

Nice write up,

and just one very impotant point for people.
The routing of the clutch cable is very important and may have been the reason it broke. It must be smoothe and not kinked, and when on full lock in both directions the cable sheath should not bind against the head stock or anything else, also if it has a kink you will notice the lever is harder to pull, andit will wear the cable out early.

edit: moved so others can be helped

Thanks.

On full lock left I think my sheath hits the head stock... I don't have the bike with me to take a look, but at the moment I can't think of a better way to route it so that it doesn't hit.

[cerberus125r]

hey Mitch, you forgot to mention you need to work bare foot, so the earth zen can flow up your legs.

[antoineperth]

and at the lights then? when your stopped, still in gear your bike will stall, and if you neutral it and then put it in gear would it not just stall aswell?

[Mybowlcut]

hey Mitch, you forgot to mention you need to work bare foot, so the earth zen can flow up your legs.

Hahaha wtf.

[Slug_BM]

You try to ride slowly up to lights, hoping it'll change green. Otherwise, stall it then put in 2nd gear. Pull the clutch lever (to fool the bike starter), start the bike and assist with your legs (kiddy scooter style). Had to cross London at peak hour with a busted clutch cable.

[cerberus125r]

Hahaha wtf.

look at pic 7

[wolfy_9005]

A little trick someone i talk to recommended was cable-tieing a spare clutch cable to the in-use one. Then(hopefully you have a small tool kit) you can simply swap the cables and not have to try and push start it yourself. He told me he snapped one once, and he had to use a multitool to activate the clutch to get him home.