Replacing a ZZR250 Rear Brake Pedal - A How to Guide

[Abz]

Hi,

I changed over my rear brake pedal for my ZZR250 after it bent and twisted after I had an off. I have to give credit to it though, I do think that they save the engine casing from being scratched and knocked.

I was anxious to if it would be an easy thing to do or not, especially after being told I would have to bleed the brakes in order to remove the brake lever. Not that its a hard thing to do, it just involves more work. However, I found this was not the case. I thought I should take photos so I could post them up here for anyone else who is unsure about the same procedure. Photos also help if you forget where something goes. I was able to work in the garage which made me happy (not having to work on hot pavement and not have the sun burning my neck and back).

Time: 30 minutes
Tools: Size 10 spanner, 6mm Allen Key, Pliers, flathead screwdriver (not necessary)
Equipment: New brake level, Small split pin (if you break the existing one)
Difficulty: Easy


Firstly, you have to remove the 2 bolts holding the foot peg bracket on the frame with an Allen Key. Be careful not to pull to hard on the bracket as the cables and brake line is still attached.


Now you can take the bracket away and see whats behind to have an idea what your working with. I took my springs off here, one is easy to stretch but the other one has some strength to it. It might be easier to wait till you remove you brake lever to take off the large spring. I used a flat head screwdriver to lever it off the top.


Secondly, you have to remove the bolt that the brake lever pivots on with your size 10 spanner. To be able to remove the lever, you also have to take out the split pin. I was gentle when removing the split pin to try and keep it from breaking, wasn't sure if i had a spare around the house. It would be easier to break the old one out rather than trying to save it, then use a new one. I used a new one in the end.


Once you have the split pin out, you can remove the pin that it was holding in. Now you can free the lever and take it off the the piece it was pivoting on. Feel free to clean out any sand/grease at this point.


This is the comparison between the leaver i got from the wreckers and my previous one. This was AFTER i used pliers (whilst still on the bike) to bend it into a less obstructive position. Just in case, the one on the left is my old one and the one one the right is my new one.


Now you can start putting things back together. I suggest that you put the spring through the lever now, rather than after it is already on. It can be a bit difficult. Put the spring on from the left hand side so the extra is on the right hand side, the other spring hooks onto the extra. The small spring is your brake light sensor, so make sure it is put back properly. You might also find it easier if you hook the spring at the top and then stretch it down, rather then putting the lever on then stretching the spring up. You can now put the pin back through the end.


Once the springs are in and the pin at the back is in, you can put back the bolt that you took out with your size 10 spanner. You can now also put the split pin in the through the pin at the back, be it existing or new.


You are now finished replacing the brake lever. All you have to do is swing the bracket back into place and secure the 2 bolts you took out with the Allen Keys. Now is a good time for you to test that the brake light comes on when you use the rear brake and to test that the brake works.


Once i got stuck into it, i found that it was a really simple task. It was just the at the beginning i was unsure at what was really involved. I hope that this tutorial on replacing the rear brake lever helps those who are unsure about replacing

Adam.

[Tenchi]

That looks like it was much easier than I expected. Not being able to see past the first step easily made assessing it quite difficult; also not being able to see how it attached to the master brake cylinder (the part with the split pin) at the back made it quite difficult to assess either.

Congrats on replacing it, it's still much harder than replacing the hand levers but at least not the possible nightmare that I envisaged.

EDIT: Did you remember to grease all moving parts before putting it back together?

[Capri82]

I nearly stabbed myself in the eye trying to take that big spring off when I replaced the one on mine a few weeks about.

the pedal was really bent down so the spring was extra taught, needle nose pliers slipped off and I stabbed myself in the cheek :S

How much did the lever cost you??

[Tenchi]

Hey mate,

I ended up changing the Brake lever. Wasn't anywhere near as difficult as what i anticipated. Writing up a thread at the moment with details of how i did it.

Got one for 55$ from 2 wheel wreckers.

Abz

Looks genuine kwaka, that's for sure. Almost makes you wonder why you'd buy new at all for that price.

[Jedi]

Yeah I got a new GPX lever for abot 40 bucks (essentially the same thing) from motorcycle masters, quoted about 110 for a brand new one from the stealership. Exact same procedure but I didn't even touch the springs until I had taken all the other things out, then they have no tension on them and they pop out dead easy. WHen you put the new one on put the springs on first and once you put the first pivot bolt back in, you can just push down on the lever until the second one lines up. Much easier than trying to stretch it yourself as you have the mechanical advantage of the lever.