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rz350
14-06-2006, 09:34 PM
So this afternoon I tried to take some photos of the r/c cars doing jumps. While they turned out okay the car itself is blurry as I expected since it was moving rather fast. Had just left the camera on auto so was pretty much expecting it (was suprised they turned out as good as they did)...

Can someone please tell me the best settings (ISO, shutter speed etc) to use for photos like those below (fast moving). The camera (canon G5) has a million bloody settings so I know its my lack of skill rather then the camera itself.

As it is I am just pre-focusing on the ramp then clicking to take the photo when the car goes past. (yes I'm a noob when it comes to cameras). So what settings does everyone use to take photos of the bikes etc at waneroo or other fast moving objects?

cheers,

http://members.westnet.com.au/krism/rc1.jpg

http://members.westnet.com.au/krism/rc2.jpg


While Im at it, anyone know a good camera repair place? Think the light sensor in mine has stuffed up, if I point the camera into the sun at the moment the photos turn out pitch black (like completely just a black screen). Yet pointing away from the sun/bright sky everything is fine.

Rhino
14-06-2006, 09:49 PM
It has been ages since I've touched manual cameras... but your whites look over exposed and obviously not quick enough to get the car completely stationary.

My amateur recommendations are:

Up your ISO (400+)
Open your aperture
QUICK exposure

DSLR of film? (Can't be bothered searching for your camera)

If film, need high ISO also...

nipPs
15-06-2006, 09:44 AM
Up your ISO (400+)
Open your aperture
QUICK exposure
[/b]

just to clafify for mr. noob :)

iso= film speed (i.e. 100, 200, 400 etc)
open aperture = lower number ie. 2, 5.6 ?
quick exposure = 1/1500th of a second (i.e. how long the shutter is open for)


:D

Mr John
15-06-2006, 10:29 AM
Other factors: the setting
The setting - the above pics are overexposed 'cos the camera compensated for the poorly lit parts of the frame - under the trees etc
I'd suggest taking shots in a bright open area instead
Also suggest finding a location where you can frame the photos with a less cluttered background, or at lease less cluttered mid-ground. This will make for pics with less visual distractions.

In such a bright, uncluttered setting you can use a wide aperature setting which will(if properly focused) make your subject sharply defined and the rest a bit blurry - which is good for action shots.
A wide aprerature will also allow you to use a higher shutterspeed to 'freeze' the action mid-air.

In well lit area ISO200-400 is plenty quick enough to freeze the speed you're after. Anything quicker than 1/250 sec should allow you to capture the car fairly blur free.

Turn off auto-focus and manually set your focus to the spot where the car will be when you intend to hit the shutter.
When it comes to getting your shot, line up the stationary car in the viewfinder-shuttler 1/2 pressed, get your accomplice to let her rip and follow it's progress in the viewfinder - try to keep it in the part of the frame you want it to be in the pic. Once it jumps into your 'focus-zone' squeeze the shutter to capture it.
line it up and do it again
line it up and do it again

Quick hint for good photos: CDE
Composition
Depth of field
Exposure

rz350
15-06-2006, 10:48 AM
Wow thats the kind of info I was looking for.

Much appreciated, thanks people :)

Will try a few more photos and will report back.

Mattis
15-06-2006, 11:05 AM
Will try a few more photos and will report back.
[/b]

You know this means we will have to set the jump ramp back up and bust some more air...in the name of photography of course :D

rz350
15-06-2006, 11:11 AM
You know this means we will have to set the jump ramp back up and bust some more air...in the name of photography of course :D
[/b]

haha I will be home at 4pm if you want to come over for round 2 B)

tigerleo
15-06-2006, 06:56 PM
This is what i reckon:

You want a fast shutter speed - the faster the better IF you want to freeze the motion - therefore upping the ISO wil enable you to shoot at higher shutter speeds.

Opening the aperture will also enable faster shutter speeds BUT at the expense of depth of field, so your focus will need to be much more accurate. As your camera is probably auto focus, it will depend on it's shutter lag as to how quickly it can focus and find the correct exposure before the pic is taken. As you are prefocusing on the ramp you will need a greater depth of filed than a fully open aperture - however the apertures on most domestic digicams don't open up that much anyway, so shallow depth of filed is not normally a problem unless you are very close to the subject...

You can try to 'pan' with the action - ie, move the camera to follow the action. You will need steady hands, but this will enable you to shoot with a slower shutter speed and a smaller aperture. Result will be a blurred background which will help indicate motion.

Strangely your shots to me look 'photochopped' - they look kind of fake somehow - whether this is due to the motion blur or the slightly contrasty exposure I don't know - just look odd to me.