Flo Commander works over the entire rpm range not in a specific rpm range like the solenoid. Base line is the standard setting which I think is open between 4500-7000.
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Things to do before first start up:
- Connect upper-cylinder PV cables (aren't they a pain to get to?)
- Fit pilot-circuit Flo Commander and quick-couplers upon arrival.
- Install carbs
- Fit choke cable
- Connect up air solenoid circuits
- Set PV positions (again, that upper cylinder is going to be a pain)
- Install air box (waiting on the crankcase filter to arrive)
- Fill coolant system and bleed
- Put a clip on the 2t reservoir
- Fill 2t oil system and bleed/prime
- Fill gearbox
- Install fuel tank
- Add fuel to tank
- Use a fuel petcock for the first time in my life
And that's it. Scary. It might happen this weekend or next! There is also the brake lines to fill and bleed - I'm just waiting for the OEM rear brake reservoir.
- My 125 has a quick-disconnect for the fuel line. I'd love one for the 250 but it uses bigger diameter hose and I don't know where to find a disconnect that fits - any suggestions?
- I'm planning on running mineral pre-mix to run the engine in. The 2t system will be filled with synthetic - I don't want to empty mineral oil from the lines really. Should I just leave the oil pump disconnected until the motor is run in?
- Do I leave the original size jets in and just work with the Flo-Commander to begin with?
Once the bike is running I have the SAPC and PV controller to remove and replace with the Zeeltronic, plus connecting the shift light, quick shifter and map switch. I still haven't found connectors that will stop me from having to cut the original SAPC plugs off of the loom... any last suggestions?
I ran my engine from Germany with motul 710 only prob the end cans filled up with oil so either get new exhaust matting or ride in a lower gear for a while 8k 100km, 8.5k100-200km,9k 200-350km,9.5k 350-500km 10k 500-650km ,10.5k 650-800 , 11k 800-1000kms then flat out lol not saying u should follow but when I got my engine these where what they say the run in their engines so I followed
Jetting I think is standard on my bike but have the jets they sent me with the temp range I gave them but the matting I think will have to change. Lol I'll take my bike in for a service soon
Hahahah I think my oil pump is ok I will need new matting as I just brought from tyga should be here next week sometime then when I get home from working away change it ova since the excess oil is dripping out from the exhaust lol
I wouldn't change it over until you've worked out why your bike is running too rich. You might even find some kero cleans out your silencer enough to leave the existing stuff in - depends upon how long it has been running that way and how far through the matting it has gone.
But back on topic
I've never bothered with mineral oil in 2T. I wouldn't recommend running pump and premix for long periods of time. Normally I do the heat cycles with premix, bleed oil lines during the heat cycles, then dilute the premix and run the oil pump for the run in. Your run in period isn't going to be that long anyway.
I started with standard jets. You'll know pretty quick which way you need to go.
Okay, quick disconnects and pilot Flo-Commander installed.
Now to install the carbs and work out where all these f*cking hoses go...
Then it's just the OEM rear brake reservoir, which I got after months of wondering why the Tyga one didn't work (it's for their subframe). Fluids, check tighten some things, and it's almost time to see if I've made a hand-grenade or been successful.
Last night I pulled the bowl off the carbs one last time and checked the jets. Then I assembled them again, put them in place on the bike and installed the throttle cables.
I can now twist the throttle and see the carb slides open and close. Pretty bloody exciting. Needs about 1mm of adjustment to make the slides perfectly synchronised.
The quick release seat catch is now modified and installed, the cables for the quick shifter and map switch are in and connected.
Tonight is going to involve paying close attention to the manual to make sure I run the choke cables and solenoid hoses right.
whats with all that stuff in the airbox
with all that equipment reducing the volume of the box will that affect the carb operation?
Will be fine
How's it all going mate? haven't had bugger all time to come on here.
RS 250 - TTW Heads, Cougar PVs, Arrow Pipes, Gilles Rear Sets, Tyga Rear Tail, Hel Braided Lines,
Paint job by Potato (Straightline2Ten)
Come on loud what's happening with Ya bike