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Thread: How to Insulate Your Garage Door

  1. #21
    Member roag's Avatar
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    I did mine on the week end with polystyrene. I'll check the temperature difference over the next few days, but the door did radiate heat into the garage at a great rate so this should slow it significantly.
    I had the foam cut for $200, this was for a double garage.




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    Member BusaSteve's Avatar
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    You might wanna check your insurance...polystyrene is a fire hazard and may void your cover should the worse happen. Having said that the new colour bond roofing for patios is insulated with polystyrene....so maybe I am wrong...best to be sure IMO.
    Smoke me a kipper...I'll be home in time for breakfast
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  3. #23
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    I did a quick test when I got home and you are right the stuff burns. But it burns no more than the rest of the plastic in the garage. I might look at some sort of coating for it. The roof is wood so that will probably go first.

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    Member Stephan's Avatar
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    So Scott52 ,how is that Bunnings stuff going? Was it worth it? Did it last so far? Garage door motor burned out yet?
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hewie View Post
    Now I know what Im doing this weekend.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stephan View Post
    So Scott52 ,how is that Bunnings stuff going? Was it worth it? Did it last so far? Garage door motor burned out yet?
    Stephan the Aircell is still there and doings it's job very well. I've had no issues with the door opener. The extra weight was only a few kilograms at the most so it has not been a problem.

    It's been in for over 18 months now without a problem.
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    Could you use this gear for the top off your workshop/shed or would it be a waste of time?

    also thinking that maybe Clarke rubber has something cheaper/better?


    RR

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    Member agrid's Avatar
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    I posted elsewhere about this crazy German I sold a VW Eos to (http://www.perthstreetbikes.com/foru...ml#post3012721). He had insulated his wood working workshop with walls about 30 cms thick. It was really cool on a stinking hot day despite no air conditioning. The other thing was that is it was sound proof enough he could use it as an indoor shooting range without the neighbours knowing.
    Last edited by agrid; 30-04-2014 at 03:38 PM.
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    I used air cell to insulate the roof on my metal shed workshop - it works a treat.

    Sadly it won't go onto the roller door... so I have to dream up something else to use there.

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    I will ask my sheet metal worker about one of the materials he uses that is a silver backed foam rubber they insulate some duct work with.
    They hung a sign up in our town "If you live it up, you won't live it down"-Tom Waits
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    My Aircell is still going strong. It's getting close to two years now.
    I'll be riding for you #52, my dear son, Cameron Taylor Elliott 1985-2009
    2008 CBR600RR and 2010 GSXR750 Track Bikes, KTM530EXC Enduro bike wrist breaker

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    If anyone is considering doing this, consider buying it from shedblog.com.au rather than Bunnings. A lot cheaper, and you can just organise to pick it up yourself from Air-Cell's warehouse in Malaga to save the delivery cost.

    I used the Insulshed50 product they have and insulated my whole shed.
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    fucking pussies wanna insulate their workshops gimme a break
    faster ya go closer to nirvana
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  14. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by Biffer View Post
    fucking pussies wanna insulate their workshops gimme a break
    Workshop insulation is useful.

    The neighbours get suspicious and call the police when they hear too much tortured screaming.
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    Might have just saved me a fortune. I was going to do the tv room in the workshop with cool room panels. The big fish tank will turn to fish soup if I don't.

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    Just did sectional door with Kingspan K10:

    http://www.kingspaninsulation.co.uk/.../Overview.aspx

    See pic of door half done:



    • Boards are 25mm thick and foil backed.
    • Weighs next to nothing.
    • R value around 1.5
    • Temp difference at the door was up to 15 degrees.
    • Garage noticeably cooler.
    • FM approved to Class 1 fire rating Class Number 4880
    • Door pictured took 4 sheets to complete.



    Have heaps of K10 sitting around. Will do for you for $380 or buy K10 off us for $50 a sheet (W 1200 - L 2270), pick up. PM me.
    Last edited by Gippo; 24-11-2015 at 09:40 AM.
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    Member roag's Avatar
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    This has been up for a while now and there as been no problems. Coming into summer again and thank full for having done it. On a hot day once the sun hits the door the temperature of the metal ramps up immediately and transfers it straight in. The supports for the panels that aren't covered still get too hot to touch. I'm moving next year to a place with a huge tin shed so will probable take the foam with me.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Phildo View Post
    Workshop insulation is useful.

    The neighbours get suspicious and call the police when they hear too much tortured screaming.

    Oh you

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  19. #39
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    I apologize for bump an old topic from the dead, just have a few interesting observations from personal experience, maybe someone will need this information in the future.
    This is the way to go. New garage door that is insulated and airtight. The make very good aluminum doors that are insulated as well. No way to ever get a shitty door as airtight - I've tried and failed.

    I have a shitty door that came with a small amount of white styfoam insulation https://mechanicguides.com/best-gara...nsulation-kit/ and while I should have replaced it because that would have been much easier I've spent way to much time insulating it - but it is kind of fun. Over the top of the oem vinyl backed styrofoam I added 1/2 of reflective foam cut to size and glued in with insulation glue. I taped it as best I could but because of moisture building up at the seams not all of the tape has held - still it does create a seal albeit imperfect. I used rubber seals with glue backing between all the sections - they are easy to install with the door halfway open and they make a huge difference.

    Lastly I am currently putting reflective fiberglass over the top of it all to give it a chance at meeting firecode and to cover the seams. It is not airtight at the edges of course but the glass lays down pretty good and I'll add some expansion insulation to tighten it up the best I can. I'm using self taping sheet metal screws with big rubber washers on them plus tape to make sure I don't have a problem with this stuff falling off. It is r6.7 when properly installed so I assume I'll grab at least a portion of that on top of the foamboard on top of the styrofoam + walls blown full of cellulose + attic insulated to between r-30 and r-40 depending on the spot = pretty darn warm in my attached garage even without running the heater.
    .I like to watch YouTube videos of a similar subject when I'm looking for information about the right product. I hope this helps someone in the future. Good luck!
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