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Thread: Crispy Honda XL500 project is GO

  1. #41
    Member agrid's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Christo View Post
    Yes it is......well spotted. Had to modify the underside of it slightly to clear the cylinder head.
    Mine has one of those shitty plastic tanks but I would like to replace it with an original one. This one is the correct colour and has good patina, but is off a 250. How much work to fit? By "modify underside" do you mean whack with a rubber hammer or some welding involved? I once had a bad experience welding a fuel tank.

    Also, I'm not that observant, just recognised the bike from one of your blogs where you mentioned you fitted a 250 tank to a 500.
    -

  2. #42
    Member Christo's Avatar
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    I used a rubber hammer to reshape (bash in) the underside on the right hand side at the rear of the tank...
    Young enough to be a hoon, old enough to know better.

  3. #43
    Member Christo's Avatar
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    6 volt to 12 volt converter issues STILL



    Problem:
    the indicator & neutral idiot lights do not work in the LCD gauge unit. The high beam idiot light does (WTF)....If you recall the XL500S has a 6 volt ignition system and the LCD gauge unit is 12 volt. So using the above converter, we can feed 12 volts into the gauges only, without effecting
    anything else! I have lost most of my electrical connectors, wire, solder, globes and multimeter when I moved again last year Damn it! I borrowed a multimeter and took some voltage readings with some interesting results. The battery is putting out 6 volts at the terminals and the reading at the guage power wire is only 10 volts. At the indicator idiot lights I got readings of 2.9 volts (right) and 2.6 volts (left) and at the neutral idiot light reads 9.1 volts. I don't have a reading for the high beam idiot light as the engine needs to be running. But it seems as though the first thing I need to do is up the output voltage of the converter from 10 volts to 12 volts. How? By adding a 4.7k potentiometer and twisting the knob to turn up the voltage to a full 12 volts of power! At least I know the neutral switch works.


    Young enough to be a hoon, old enough to know better.

  4. #44
    Member Christo's Avatar
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    And further!



    Power output via DC to DC converter is 10 volts....Lower photo shows 4.7k potentiometer connected which is supposed to increase the output voltage.Then I got this email from the makers of the DC to DC converter:

    Dear Mr,
    The M029 makes an input voltage nearly twice as high as the output voltage, the output voltage depends on the load connected (see diagram in the description).
    The potentiometer can not increase the voltage, the potentiometer is used to lower the output voltage. The potentiometer must remain connected permanently.



    Apparently this is not the case! The below text is from the instructions:


    The potentiometer of 4,7 k linear should only be connected, if the output voltage may not pass over a determined rating. In that case, you should connect a voltmeter at the output of the module and regulate the potentiometer till the desired output voltage is indicated.



    Any ideas anyone?
    Young enough to be a hoon, old enough to know better.

  5. #45
    Member Crobbo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Christo View Post


    Power output via DC to DC converter is 10 volts....Lower photo shows 4.7k potentiometer connected which is supposed to increase the output voltage.Then I got this email from the makers of the DC to DC converter:

    Dear Mr,
    The M029 makes an input voltage nearly twice as high as the output voltage, the output voltage depends on the load connected (see diagram in the description).
    The potentiometer can not increase the voltage, the potentiometer is used to lower the output voltage. The potentiometer must remain connected permanently.



    Apparently this is not the case! The below text is from the instructions:


    The potentiometer of 4,7 k linear should only be connected, if the output voltage may not pass over a determined rating. In that case, you should connect a voltmeter at the output of the module and regulate the potentiometer till the desired output voltage is indicated.



    Any ideas anyone?
    Are you feeding it AC or DC?

    And

    LEDs are directional, can you flip them around?
    Rules are for the guidance of wise men and the obedience of fools. - Sir Douglas Robert Steuart Bader

  6. #46
    Member Christo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Crobbo View Post
    Are you feeding it AC or DC?

    And

    LEDs are directional, can you flip them around?
    I'm in way over my head with this stuff! There are only two options left, take it to an auto-sparky or make a separate idiot light panel using the power that I have to work with! Im going with the second option at this stage.
    Young enough to be a hoon, old enough to know better.

  7. #47
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    Quote Originally Posted by Christo View Post
    I'm in way over my head with this stuff! There are only two options left, take it to an auto-sparky or make a separate idiot light panel using the power that I have to work with! Im going with the second option at this stage.
    You have a multimeter I hope.

    #1 Check the leads going into you voltage booster. Does the Multimeter need to be set on AC or DC volts to get a reading?

    #2 Unplug your LEDs rotate 180 and reinsert. LEDs are a diode they only work way.
    Rules are for the guidance of wise men and the obedience of fools. - Sir Douglas Robert Steuart Bader

  8. #48
    Member Christo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Crobbo View Post
    You have a multimeter I hope.

    #1 Check the leads going into you voltage booster. Does the Multimeter need to be set on AC or DC volts to get a reading?

    #2 Unplug your LEDs rotate 180 and reinsert. LEDs are a diode they only work way.
    The LEDs are intergral to the dash so I cannot change them, easily. The problem seems to be lack of power draw.

    I have made my own idiot lights as per my picture below. These are the right voltage and work.
    I have siliconed in 3v & 9v minibulbs into the bezel housings, just need to wire them up and mount them...

    Young enough to be a hoon, old enough to know better.

  9. #49
    Member Christo's Avatar
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    Well the idiot light dash works, but not the way I expected. The green light in the middle doesn't work because now the neutral light in the LCD does! (see it there on the right). I think its because the extra globe (9 volt) is now creating enough current draw to light the led in the lcd gauges. The indicator lights work as expected! As they say two out of three aint bad!

    http://crispycycles.blogspot.com.au/...ot-lights.html
    Young enough to be a hoon, old enough to know better.

  10. #50
    Member Christo's Avatar
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    Young enough to be a hoon, old enough to know better.
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  11. #51
    Member Christo's Avatar
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    Got tired of the rusty bare metal on the top of the tank, so I painted it black with a white stripe.

    Young enough to be a hoon, old enough to know better.

  12. #52
    Member Christo's Avatar
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    Young enough to be a hoon, old enough to know better.
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  13. #53
    Member agrid's Avatar
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    Like... did yours originally have the 23 inch front wheel? I feel like I should be able to take advantage of that to give the bike an unusual look.
    -

  14. #54
    Member Christo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by agrid View Post
    Like... did yours originally have the 23 inch front wheel? I feel like I should be able to take advantage of that to give the bike an unusual look.
    Yes Agrid, it had a 23" front wheel! Now its got 16x3 both ends for a supermoto look....
    Young enough to be a hoon, old enough to know better.

  15. #55
    Member Christo's Avatar
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    Horn issues

    About 3 years ago I bought a new 6 volt horn. It worked ok till a few days ago, and then would only work when you hit it with a spanner.
    Then it stopped working altogether. Today I bought a used one. Plugged it in and it worked great. I then spun the mounting 180 degress so
    the wires reached and cleaned the rusty spade connectors. Bolted it back up and absolutely nothing! Checked for power at the connectors
    and all good at 6 volts. Then tried connecting it straight to the battery and still nothing.
    I think it was just that it had been sitting probably for years and not used and then a couple of goes and its stuffed!
    I will go back and exchange it for another one....

    Thoughts???
    Young enough to be a hoon, old enough to know better.

  16. #56
    Member Sprint's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Christo View Post

    Thoughts???
    Seen one of these on a trailie....



    Not sure if legal, but good for LOLs

    S.
    Chuck Norris is 1/8th Cherokee. This has nothing to do with ancestry, the man ate a fucking Indian.
    Likes Christo liked this post

  17. #57
    Member Christo's Avatar
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    Horn works after buying a new one......Now has a short in the tail light somewhere as both elements are always on......
    Will the bike be finished before I actually have the money to buy the bike i want?
    I wonder how well the XL will burn.....?
    Young enough to be a hoon, old enough to know better.

  18. #58
    Member agrid's Avatar
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    Hang in there mate.

    Mine hasn't even gotten started.

    - - - Updated - - -

    I need to dick around with a new piston big bore kit.
    -

  19. #59
    Member datsikk's Avatar
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    Dunno why but this bike looks hell cool...as is !
    Likes Christo liked this post

  20. #60
    Member Christo's Avatar
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    Front brake light switch replacement ordered....from India..........longest 2 weeks ever....
    Ive ordered a honda switch as well.....
    Young enough to be a hoon, old enough to know better.

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