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Thread: 1965 Triumph Chopper

  1. #61
    Member BusaSteve's Avatar
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    Same stuff they built the Titanic from...













    from the interwebs.....

    AISI 1018 mild/low carbon steel has excellent weldability and produces a uniform and harder case and it is considered as the best steel for carburized parts. ... Provided with higher mechanical properties, AISI 1018 hot rolled steel also includes improved machining characteristics and Brinell hardness.
    Smoke me a kipper...I'll be home in time for breakfast
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  2. #62
    Member El Skitzo's Avatar
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    So I've packed up my pile of parts and dropped it down to Tom at Sideshow Cycles in South Freo, to turn the whole thing into a roller. I simply don't have the time at the moment, and definitely not the expertise to manufacture the parts needed to rebuild the front end.

    Funny thing is, the whole thing fit into the boot of my car.

    From what I hear he's sandblasted the frame and given it a coat of primer to protect it from surface rust, and bolted the frame together. Next up he'll be dropping the engine in, and is waiting on me now to source a rear chain before the rear wheel can be bolted in and correctly aligned. In the mean time he's stripped the girder front end, and will be making new studs and bushes for it.

    Once the front end is rebuilt we'll look at sourcing a front wheel, of which he's talked me into staying with a drum brake on the front to keep it simple, so we'll see what we can find.

    I'll probably head down there on Wednesday to take a look and a few pics.


  3. #63
    Member El Skitzo's Avatar
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    Thanks to Ben at British Imports we were able to source a new drive chain yesterday. Unfortunately he didn't have a 130 link 530 in stock, but did have a 114 link item, which combined with a spare 20 links he had left over from another bike build he was able to rivet the two together on the spot and sell me effectively a 134 link 530 chain for $80. Good deal!

    So we dropped that off to Tom at Sideshow Cycles and took in the progress so far. The frame looks so so good now that it's been sandblasted and hit with a coat of black primer. We can see a fair few repairs the front loop will need going forward, but some of those issues might disappear if we get the go ahead to chop and stretch the frame.

    The frame and engine are now all bolted in with the correct grade, thread and length bolts, some of with a British Cycle thread which is extremely difficult to find locally now.







    You can see here the new neck cups pressed into place for the bearing conversion kit which allows us to use a Harley front end in a Triumph frame.





    How good do these Biltwell finned aluminium rear engine mounts look!? Very high quality pieces which they not longer make, so I was very lucky to get one of the last sets Lowbrow Customs had left in stock.

    Last edited by El Skitzo; 31-08-2018 at 10:15 AM.
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  4. #64
    Member El Skitzo's Avatar
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    Well the first little snag has been found.

    Tom was aligning the rear wheel in the frame yesterday and making up the spacers, and had it to the point where he was happy. He then gave the rear wheel a bit of a spin and the wheel was tracking true, but the drum brake wasn't and appeared to be wobbling around like it was warped or something, which would be weird given it's cast.

    So he pulled the rear drum assembly apart and found the problem. A dodgy spacing job by someone in the past to space the drum out further from the hub, probably to help the chain clear a wider tire, they've used 3 washers per wheel stud. Obviously garden variety washers are not very precise in thickness, hence why the drum was not spinning true like the rest of the wheel.

    Unfortunately this assembly was in place when I had the rim re-spoked and offset, so if we remove this spacing the chain may not clear the tyre any more. We could pull the tyre off the rim and have the rim offset adjusted again, or what we're probably going to do is replace the washers with a custom CNC made spacer plate to keep the drum where it was in relation to the hub, but be perfectly precise and aligned.

    This is my fault really. Having received an old rear wheel which I was told was rebuilt, I should not have believed the seller and stripped it down myself to check everything before proceeding with any further work with it. Lesson learned for future!


  5. #65
    Member =Maz='s Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by El Skitzo View Post
    This is my fault really. Having received an old rear wheel which I was told was rebuilt, I should not have believed the seller and stripped it down myself to check everything before proceeding with any further work with it. Lesson learned for future!
    It's a lesson many of us have learned the hard way...glad the fix is relatively painless.
    Last edited by =Maz=; 06-09-2018 at 10:46 AM. Reason: dyslexia strikes
    All I've got and more for #294...RIP Chris Adley
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  6. #66
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    Brightside

    Might be a advantage to have a modern machined spacer disc as a defacto base to build the crusty old old hub around?
    Note: this may not be the universe where the above is relevant.

  7. #67
    Member El Skitzo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by somebodyelse View Post
    Might be a advantage to have a modern machined spacer disc as a defacto base to build the crusty old old hub around?
    That's essentially what I think the plan is. I'll be dropping down tomorrow to check on the progress and discuss how the project is coming along, so hopefully I'll have some clarity from that.

    In the mean time Tom is pushing ahead with rebuilding the girder front end with plans for improving the fork pivoting assembly.






  8. #68
    Member El Skitzo's Avatar
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    This week I've had a bit of a win and a bit of a kick in the face with wheels.

    I've been lucky enough to have a front wheel donated to the project for FREE, with a friend giving me a narrow glide Sportster front wheel to try out. Yes is needs new bearings, disk, spokes and outer rim, and the hub could do with a polish, but that's all easily done and what you'd expect of an old wheel. The overall width of the hub is just 4.5" so should definitely fit in the narrow girder front end. Whether that leaves any space for a disk brake bracket to slide in on the front axle as well we don't know yet. Perhaps calliper mounts would have to be welded directly to one of the girder legs. At least we have something to play around with now and see if a disk brake is an option.

    The bad news is after finding the rear drum had been spaced off the hub with washers and most likely causing the drum/sprocket to appear to wobble when the wheel was spinning, on closer inspection that wasn't the cause and the drum probably isn't warped either. It turns out the mounting surface of the hub itself is not completely flat/square. So I'm going to need to talk to a machinist to see about skimming the hub face down flat, or making a thin spacer that can be machine to flatten it all out. The big question is, can this be done with the wheel complete like it is, or will we have to strip the rim and spokes off the hub to get it into a lathe...


  9. #69
    Member Wozza's Avatar
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    Normally its hub only...but if you have a place that repairs car wheels..they will prob have the equipment to do it whole...Honestly for all the running around just strip the wheel down get it fixed... bung in some stainless spokes on both wheels and dont look at the bill
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  10. #70
    Member El Skitzo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wozza View Post
    but if you have a place that repairs car wheels..they will prob have the equipment to do it whole
    That's a bloody good idea, I'll look in to that!

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    I had the hub of my tard wheel machined down while the wheel was fully assembled. Embleton engineering did the job

  12. #72
    Member El Skitzo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pandas View Post
    I had the hub of my tard wheel machined down while the wheel was fully assembled. Embleton engineering did the job
    Good to hear! Alliance Rim Repairs in Malaga have it now and said it's an easy job for them. They just have to pop the tyre off first.

    Hopefully in a week's time, I'll have some good news for a change.
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  13. #73
    Member El Skitzo's Avatar
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    Just got the wheel back from Alliance with the drum mounting face on the hub skimmed, so thanks for the tip Wozza.

    Looks pretty good and straight, but the real test will be later today when I bolt the drum backing plate and sprocket to it. Fingers crossed we're good to go now...

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  14. #74
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    Wow. Maybe it's the photo ( but I doubt it ) but either the hub is made of really shit material, or the machinist needs to work on his feeds and speeds and / or tooling. My boss would kick my arse right out the door if I knocked out something like that.
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  15. #75
    Member El Skitzo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by D996R View Post
    Wow. Maybe it's the photo ( but I doubt it ) but either the hub is made of really shit material, or the machinist needs to work on his feeds and speeds and / or tooling. My boss would kick my arse right out the door if I knocked out something like that.
    Yeah not the neatest, but the good news is that it is straight and true and the brake drum and sprocket are now spinning straight and true. Problem solved...

    You can see it here: https://youtu.be/rRogD9AD2y0


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