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Thread: Want to buy or borrow Honda Part#07HMA-MR70200

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    Member =Maz='s Avatar
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    Want to buy or borrow Honda Part#07HMA-MR70200

    G'day all.

    I am hoping to buy or borrow the Honda Part #07HMA-MR70200
    It is a specialized tool that works on NC29, NC30, RC30, VFR and Blackbirds(as far as I am aware). It is specifically for removal and installation of the engine lock nuts.

    I am aware that the tool can be fabricated from a 22mm socket but the 1/2in socket off-set is required to match the torque settings...so a fabricated one will do to get the engine out but not to get it back in(within spec).

    Any help here would really be appreciated.

    Cheers.
    All I've got and more for #294...RIP Chris Adley
    #158...RIP James Thompson

    Quote Originally Posted by Ryanoceros View Post
    Wooohoo !! Fucking 10/10 ride. Cheers for that Aari, you really conditioned my sphincter

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    Member chew's Avatar
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    Interesting.

    In the manual for the VTR1000F, that also uses "castle" type nuts for the engine mounts, they give an actual and indicated torque setting.

    I assume the indicated is the torque setting using the special tool, while the actual is, well, the actual torque setting?
    They hung a sign up in our town "If you live it up, you won't live it down"-Tom Waits
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    Member BenG's Avatar
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    Can you not just use the modified 22mm socket and do a simple calculation to work out the appropriate torque setting for the torque wrench?

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    Member =Maz='s Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BenG View Post
    Can you not just use the modified 22mm socket and do a simple calculation to work out the appropriate torque setting for the torque wrench?
    I wish.
    Internet NC30 Gurus say the true torque requires the tool... If they haven't worked it out it wouldn't be simple enough for me to work out.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Quote Originally Posted by chew View Post
    I assume the indicated is the torque setting using the special tool, while the actual is, well, the actual torque setting?
    This exactly.
    All I've got and more for #294...RIP Chris Adley
    #158...RIP James Thompson

    Quote Originally Posted by Ryanoceros View Post
    Wooohoo !! Fucking 10/10 ride. Cheers for that Aari, you really conditioned my sphincter

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    Is that the correct tool?

    If the socket is 50mm offset from the 1/2 you can work out the torque required.

    Or make your own as a direct copy and the specs will be the same.
    In sterquiliniis invenitur.
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    Member =Maz='s Avatar
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    Yep... That be the one.
    All I've got and more for #294...RIP Chris Adley
    #158...RIP James Thompson

    Quote Originally Posted by Ryanoceros View Post
    Wooohoo !! Fucking 10/10 ride. Cheers for that Aari, you really conditioned my sphincter

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    Member BLK'N'BLU's Avatar
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    Want to buy or borrow Honda Part#07HMA-MR70200

    As far as I can see, the only reason for the offset in the tool in the picture is itís double ended in different sizes. Make an appropriate size one for your needs and torque it to manual stated spec. Job done. The differently calculated torque is purely for this multi size tool. Youíre over thinking this one if you are needing this tool for the swingarm pivot as per its description, or are you looking for something else for engine locknuts as per you original post?
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    A quick google see's the tool used for engine and swingarm possibly rear axle single sided swinger.

    It quotes torques of 50nm & 90nm respectively....

    Start with torque wrench....on a high tension bolt with normal ( easy to fit socket ) get a feel for how tight it is..... click the wrench a few times...now loosen that bolt..

    If you have clean access to the engine mount (?) bolt set it at nominal torque (low) if it's all good go to Fact.Spec. 50nm ?

    All I'm saying is muscle memory is a wonderful thing....

    90nm for swing arm pivot..? seems a lot when you do it....alloy frame? steel frame Kat has swingarm pivot bolt @ 90nm as does FJ series Yamaha's ---so all good.

    as a way of not getting yourself hurt or strained it's always easier to push down when tightening OR loosening .. just a tip....2c
    " Imagination is the seed of life..."

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    Member =Maz='s Avatar
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    Maybe I am over thinking it but, as I said, the gurus who posted the info that Crobbo shared seem to be assessment that the tool and the stated Torque settings are related.

    The whole bike is being stripped, engine out, Swingarm removed. To remove them I can manage but to get the torque right on installation I need the tool... Which I can buy through eBay but would rather buy from a local.

    GsxInShed your right I could learn through practice, what the torque feels like but I am planning to fully rebuild the motor and, as such, hoping that the install will not need to done and redone...just once every few seasons maybe.

    Oh, the tool is for the locking nuts not the actual bolts.
    All I've got and more for #294...RIP Chris Adley
    #158...RIP James Thompson

    Quote Originally Posted by Ryanoceros View Post
    Wooohoo !! Fucking 10/10 ride. Cheers for that Aari, you really conditioned my sphincter

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    Hey Maz... I get you,mate.... With the 'tool' correct settings can be achieved. So yeh, get one....or fuck that nut design off and get castellated/split pin..Nyloc..Steelock.

    Let me suggest you torque every nut .(tip-avoid building in stresses...do it in stages for higher fiqures..). and bolt be it lb/in kg/cm2 or whatever.

    If you are really keen get a UV flashlight ebay and marker pen....great to save rechecking prior to a race. Marks only visible with UV light..:-)

    Trust me on this the t/wrench is just a tool...it helps to get the correct spec for the thread pitch/ nut type /bolt strength ratios.
    " Imagination is the seed of life..."
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    Seems to be similar calc to a crowsfoot type extension. Couple of calculators out there on the offset, if you can trust that it is exactly 50mm offset. And you can get a regular socket to actually fit.

    https://www.mountztorque.com/service...s-and-spanners

    https://www.finishing.com/118/94_cro...t_torque.shtml

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    Quote Originally Posted by chew View Post
    I assume the indicated is the torque setting using the special tool, while the actual is, well, the actual torque setting?
    Quote Originally Posted by =Maz= View Post
    This exactly.
    So am I under thinking this then, wouldnít the indicated torque setting be allowing for the extra offset of the tool on a torque wrench , and the actual torque setting be if you could get a direct fitting on a torque wrench?
    Seems to simple, so it obviously canít be right
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    I guess you'd have to use a deflection arm style wrench and work it out for the additional arm.

    Pretty simple.
    In sterquiliniis invenitur.

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    Member chew's Avatar
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    Do you have a manual? Mine was very specific.

    This is from the VTR1000F manual;

    HTML Code:
    When us∑ing the lock nut wrench for the adjusting bolt lock nut, use a deflecting beam type torque wrench 20 inches long.
    The lock nut wrench increases the torque wrench's leverage, so the torque wrench reading will be less than the torque
    actually applied to the lock nut. The specification given is the actual torque applied to the lock nut, not the reading on the
    torque wrench. Do not overtighten the lock nut. The specification later in the text gives both actual and indicated.
    They hung a sign up in our town "If you live it up, you won't live it down"-Tom Waits

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    Member =Maz='s Avatar
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    SpeedTrip it is beyond my simple mind to work out.

    Crobbo can you explain it me then mate?
    All I've got and more for #294...RIP Chris Adley
    #158...RIP James Thompson

    Quote Originally Posted by Ryanoceros View Post
    Wooohoo !! Fucking 10/10 ride. Cheers for that Aari, you really conditioned my sphincter

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    Member Crobbo's Avatar
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    If you can copy the dimensions of that tool. (50mm centre to centre) Use the torque figure from the manual and it will be correct.

    If its something different report back with what you've come up with and we can work it out.

    But yes it can be calculated.

    The exact tool is not required.
    In sterquiliniis invenitur.
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    To my simple thinking IF you had that tool and tightened the nut to the spec and could then get a socket directly on the nut you'd be able to see what torque it takes before it moves agin surely Maybe not purely exact but close enough for non engineers
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    If a crows foot spanner fits and you use the torque conversion formulas supplied with the tools actual torque is easy to get to

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