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Thread: Kawa Z800 intermittent starting "issue"

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    Member frenchie's Avatar
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    Kawa Z800 intermittent starting "issue"

    Hey all, I thought I'd throw my "issue" out to the brains trust before throwing money at it, let's see what we can get.

    So when I got this second-hand Z800, you'd turn the key, wait for the priming/startup electronics to stop whizzing and whirring, touch the starter and it would fire right up on the first turn, every time.

    Now, intermittently, it will start up just like that, OR (and increasingly so), I need to hold the starter for a solid 2-3 seconds of it turning the engine over before the engine actually fires up to running.

    The battery is tested and seems fine, but I have a spare I can throw in it, I don't suspect it however as the starter motor continues turning just fine, there's no laboring or slowing of the sound of the starter, it just has to keep going before the bike will fire up under it's own steam.

    When the bike is running it runs the same as ever, smoother than an oiled boob, no weird idle or any glitches through the powerband.

    Suggestions? fuel flow? Spark plugs? I got a somewhat patchy history for the bike when I got it so maybe it just needs a major service thrown at it? (46800kms now). I just got spark plugs for it but they're a total c*nt to change because of the way the frame is, it runs over the top of the motor and seemingly has coolant system parts that need to be removed to do it too.

    Your advice on what to check is appreciated, friends have already thrown out things like crank position sensor and battery, but it could even be a bad connection somewhere I guess like on a plug coil.
    Quote Originally Posted by boeman View Post
    Well it wouldn't have been fair to have a beard, a hot young missus AND a nice bike, now would it?

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    Well fuck off then. And wherever you decide to fuck off to, keep telling them Perth is a shithole - it may help minimise the number of fuckwits/arseholes (canít decide which word is more appropriate ) that move here.

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    Member Water pig's Avatar
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    Fuel pressure bleeding off, while bike is shut down, does it start perfectly if you switch it off then fire it straight back up? If so it likely the one way valve in the pump system or one of the o-rings in line are bleeding fuel pressure off.

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    start with the simple stuff.

    May be the Ignition switch is stuck?
    Dust & grime can build up over time. Try spraying CRC(contact cleaner) all around the switch gear.

    Might need pulling apart and a clean.
    Last edited by Blazon; 31-01-2019 at 02:30 PM. Reason: contact spray

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    Just to be sure Blazon means this stuff.....


    https://www.repco.com.au/en/brands/c...50g/p/A4733983

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    Quote Originally Posted by Water pig View Post
    Fuel pressure bleeding off, while bike is shut down, does it start perfectly if you switch it off then fire it straight back up? If so it likely the one way valve in the pump system or one of the o-rings in line are bleeding fuel pressure off.
    This...

    The fuel pump has no sensor for fuel pressure, so the start up of the fuel pump when the key is turned on is just time based...

    If the bike has not been run for some time fuel pressure bleeds off and the timed fuel pump start up isn't sufficient to fully pressurise the fuel system to operating pressure, so when it cranks there is not enough pressure to instantly start the bike...

    This is easily tested by starting the bike and then seeing if it always starts instantly every time afterwards. Then start it after an hour and see if it start instantly, then two etc...

    If this is the issue you will soon see that after a certain amount of time it always needs that extra cranking to start...

    Then final test by cycling the key twice before pressing the start button and see if it then instantly starts...

    If the above gives no joy then plugs and a tune...
    Likes GsxInShed, frenchie liked this post

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    So it does fire up straight away after being run, tried that a good 8-10 times now, however! turning the key and letting it prime 5 times still resulted in it taking a few seconds to start..

    I suppose I'm still looking at a fuel pressure issue though?
    Quote Originally Posted by boeman View Post
    Well it wouldn't have been fair to have a beard, a hot young missus AND a nice bike, now would it?

    I mean fuck, im not a selfish cunt.
    Quote Originally Posted by Chuck Steak View Post
    Well fuck off then. And wherever you decide to fuck off to, keep telling them Perth is a shithole - it may help minimise the number of fuckwits/arseholes (canít decide which word is more appropriate ) that move here.

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    If you tried cycling the key a couple of times to ensure complete fuel pressure and still having issues I would suggest moving to the next step...

    For me that would be remove and check spark plugs, clean, gap and refit...

    This will cost nothing but time...
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    Member frenchie's Avatar
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    I have a new set waiting to go in, it's just the time that's actually the toughest part! (13 month old at home) especially since they appear to be a bastard to change.
    Quote Originally Posted by boeman View Post
    Well it wouldn't have been fair to have a beard, a hot young missus AND a nice bike, now would it?

    I mean fuck, im not a selfish cunt.
    Quote Originally Posted by Chuck Steak View Post
    Well fuck off then. And wherever you decide to fuck off to, keep telling them Perth is a shithole - it may help minimise the number of fuckwits/arseholes (canít decide which word is more appropriate ) that move here.

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    Fuel filter.
    yes, i am ignorant
    yes, i am a prick
    no, i don't care
    you make me sick

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    "It's the battery..."
    " Imagination is the seed of life..."

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    I would guess (1) fuel pump, (2) fuel pressure reg (3) fuel filter (4) dirty injectors (5) if it has secondary butterflys which act as a choke, maybe that.

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    Second the...'its the battery'...my Mt09 did a similar thing....battery was measured at 12.3 vdc after sitting for a while....charged it up and problem was solved.
    Smoke me a kipper...I'll be home in time for breakfast

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    Changed the battery as I had one lying around, good suggestions I mean it really always is the battery isn't it. Plus it was by far the easiest thing to try first. So far so good.

    One thing that surprised me however was that with no battery connected for a few minutes, I figured I'd need to set the time on the dash again, but I didn't..
    Quote Originally Posted by boeman View Post
    Well it wouldn't have been fair to have a beard, a hot young missus AND a nice bike, now would it?

    I mean fuck, im not a selfish cunt.
    Quote Originally Posted by Chuck Steak View Post
    Well fuck off then. And wherever you decide to fuck off to, keep telling them Perth is a shithole - it may help minimise the number of fuckwits/arseholes (canít decide which word is more appropriate ) that move here.

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    Suggest leak off of fuel pressure.
    One of my 10s does it. The others are fine.
    Always starts after 3 or 4 secs crank. Fires immediately any other time. The first start after being in the shed for 24hrs or longer.
    No biggie.
    If it gives you the shits start replacing the fuel delivery system from the tank to the injectors.
    Thatís a frightening prospect.
    The non return at the pump could be weak, have dirt Ďrustí or anything on or under it.
    Or a fuel line may be sucking the slightest bit of air after a cool down but seal sufficiently at pressure not to leave any tell tale fuel leaks.

    ďLet it develop.Ē

    Check the breather hoses. Paper wasps love those things. I have seen a vacuum build up to basically suck the fuel back. And it was a wasp.

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    Member frenchie's Avatar
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    Well after changing the battery I've done about 5 stone cold starts that went perfectly, so the culprit does seem to be the battery.
    Quote Originally Posted by boeman View Post
    Well it wouldn't have been fair to have a beard, a hot young missus AND a nice bike, now would it?

    I mean fuck, im not a selfish cunt.
    Quote Originally Posted by Chuck Steak View Post
    Well fuck off then. And wherever you decide to fuck off to, keep telling them Perth is a shithole - it may help minimise the number of fuckwits/arseholes (canít decide which word is more appropriate ) that move here.
    Likes GreenMeanie, Tron liked this post

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    I am so amped that you have solved this current issue.. ( volts )
    " Imagination is the seed of life..."
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    It just threw me becuase it didn't present like battery issues I've had on older bikes and cars etc, cheers brains trust!
    Quote Originally Posted by boeman View Post
    Well it wouldn't have been fair to have a beard, a hot young missus AND a nice bike, now would it?

    I mean fuck, im not a selfish cunt.
    Quote Originally Posted by Chuck Steak View Post
    Well fuck off then. And wherever you decide to fuck off to, keep telling them Perth is a shithole - it may help minimise the number of fuckwits/arseholes (canít decide which word is more appropriate ) that move here.

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    it's always the battery... unless its not the battery

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    Quote Originally Posted by frenchie View Post
    I just got spark plugs for it but they're a total c*nt to change because of the way the frame is, it runs over the top of the motor and seemingly has coolant system parts that need to be removed to do it too.
    The z800 design is honestly dumb. I just did the 36k service on a mates bike. Couple of things:
    -I counted 16 plastic covers to remove over the course of a service, GLHF
    -Read the owners manual, you're probably due for a valve check, GLHF
    -Easiest way to get the spark plugs is to remove the thermostat with both radiator hoses attached - undo them at the radiator and the rear coolant manifold end and wiggle the whole assembly out
    -While you're there, you may as well change the rear coolant manifold O rings and flush the cooling system out
    -A good throttle body balance makes the bike start/run infinitely better. Get yourself a good external tachometer because the dash isn't accurate enough. The idle speed adjuster screw is hidden off on the left side of the bike near the? footpeg I think?

    Enjoy
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    Quote Originally Posted by frenchie View Post
    It just threw me becuase it didn't present like battery issues I've had on older bikes and cars etc, cheers brains trust!
    Yeah they can be bastards of things, especially when they drop cells etc I had one battery in my old F100 that would start fine even when it was <10C but drive for 20 minutes and stop and it wouldn't crank till the vehicle cooled down, ended up being a dud cell
    Saying that a new battery can also hide other issues like R/R or stator issues
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